It sounds a tad thick for what you are thinking of. It sounds a bit like 'No Nails' type of glue and, given that it has gap filling properties, you may find it very hard to clear up after it squishes out when you press a small piece down. Also, it dries white and this would mean problems if using it to attach something after painting.
The thing with most PE is that it it is usually small and thin. The best way of getting small thin parts to stick flush to a surface is to use a fairly thin glue such as Super Glue or a thin PVA glue, the latter being my preferred way as it gives more time to ensure the piece is in the correct place. I personally use Gator Glue,
available here at the forum shop. As this dries clear and does not bulk up, i.e. it leaves a thin layer of glue between the PE and the plastic, you cannot see it is there at all. As you press the part down you will get some ooze out but a wipe with a water dampened cotton bud will remove any excess easily. It is also useful for sticking clear parts such as cockpit canopies and light lenses as, again, it dries clear and you will not see it.
The glue you mention may have its uses putting diorama pieces together but, to be honest, it really has no place on a plastic kit. As it says in the blurb, it is mainly for porous surfaces, it would be very slow drying, if at all,on non porous as it is not a solvent based. If the liquid has no where to go after the outer edges of the joint exposed to air dry, it may stay pasty for a very long time. So wood to wood, plastic to wood, it should be OK
