discussion Sheds

[ojays]

Many years ago after having my lock up garage broken into twice.

I rigged up a wooden batten (10"x2"x 6foot) that would swing forward about head height when the side door was opened. It really worked well.

Spent 2hrs in A&E getting 3 stitches in my forehead when I forgot I had set it up the night before!:fool:

Gregg

 

[Guest]

My workshop that you have seen is around 20ft x 10ft and is made of shiplap. I was designed originally as a gym when I built it but now has a better use. There is as you would imagine - thousand of pounds worth of equipment in there and it is hooked into the main house alarm.

My tip.

To build a strong shed at a fraction of the cost and made securely it is best to build it out off 12mm thick shuttering ply thicker if you can afford it, these come in 8ft x 6ft or 8ft x 4ft sheets. This is cheaper and more stronger than any tongue and grove and can be built in no time at all. The thicker the ply the better. Once built you have 2 options. 1. Treat with timber care to the desired colour or 2. For that special effect you can seal it with PVA cover in rendering mesh and render and paint it. Looks the business.

Now for security:

Get yourself a cheap bell transformer a Key switch a alarm door contact and a cheap set of air horns wire this to the door which will be the only way in due to the strong structured walls and bobs your uncle.

Cheers

Andy

 

[Guest]

Using a steel shed siliconed down on pavers works very well with triple padlock locks

 

[Guest]

A thought: a shed will be very cold in winter, so some type of heating will be needed, which implies thermal insulation, although 3 inch sheets of expanded polystyrene are fairly cheap, and your local big store will have lots of free big pieces of washing machine etc. polystyrene packaging. For economical heating, you could consider a radiant heater (more economical than a convector), and/or a small electric blanket for on your back and under the essentials, and a woolly hat, mittens, snow boots.... Or a convector heater under the bench to waft heat up to the aforementioned essentials which I have under my bench in the loft.

 

[Guest]

I would be careful about using the loftspace for modeling,with a tongue and grove chipboard floor you will get flexing which at the least will cause cracking in the ceilings at worst it can bring part of them down. A chipboard floor is OK for storing (lightweight items) but not continuous movement.

I am also looking to use my shed for modelling as soon as my son installs the electrics only been waiting since last year to be fair he did build it for me. This has prompted a related question about modelling in sheds has anyone had problems storing acrylic paint outside? I seem to remember it should not be stored below freezing,thats certainly the case with household emulsions and don't ask me how I know!

Malcolm

 

[Guest]

I would be careful about using the loftspace for modeling,with a tongue and grove chipboard floor you will get flexing which at the least will cause cracking in the ceilings at worst it can bring part of them down. A chipboard floor is OK for storing (lightweight items) but not continuous movement.I am also looking to use my shed for modelling as soon as my son installs the electrics only been waiting since last year to be fair he did build it for me. This has prompted a related question about modelling in sheds has anyone had problems storing acrylic paint outside? I seem to remember it should not be stored below freezing,thats certainly the case with household emulsions and don't ask me how I know!

Malcolm

But you can (I think) get flooring grade chipboard.

 

[Guest]

I think you can to 18 or 22mm thick I think. You can buy it in wickes.

 

[Ian M]

...... Or a convector heater under the bench to waft heat up to the aforementioned essentials which I have under my bench in the loft.

What a strange place to keep your "essentials" LOL

Ian M

 

[Ian M]

You will be fine converting the loft space and using flooring grade chip board. If the rafters are to far apart, you can add extra and to prevent flexing insert Noggings (?) between them these will stiffen the joists both ways and the ceiling below should be fine.

Remember to make access hatches for any electrical junction/lighting roses.

Ian M

 

[Guest]

I cannot get into my loft because of the strange shape of my roof which is why I am thinking about building a shed lol.

 

[stona]

I cannot get into my loft because of the strange shape of my roof which is why I am thinking about building a shed lol.

I can't get into my loft for all SWMBO's crap....and suitcases

Cheers

Steve

 

[john i am]

Steve do what I did throw it all out when she's not looking cause if its in the loft she ain't gonna go up n check when you say you can't find it

 

[stona]

Steve do what I did throw it all out when she's not looking cause if its in the loft she ain't gonna go up n check when you say you can't find it

I don't consider myself a coward.......but I'm not that brave!

Cheers

Steve

 

[spanner570]

I'm get worried stiff reading the posts about boarding out loft spaces. Roobarb is spot on....NEVER deck out a loft space directly onto the ceiling rafters and use it for anything other than storage. The weight of the chipboard alone is surprisingly high without anything else being added. Even stored items should be evenly distributed to spread the weight.

Remember all the joints in chipboard sheets should have noggins underneath all edges to support the t&g joints....and I mean all!

The only exception to the above (as is the case with my den) is where the walls underneath - be they timber stud walls or brick - are directly below where you want your den to be. These obviously act as loadbearing supports, within reason. I was lucky, I have at least four brick walls below my den.

I don't care what argument is put forward, the only 100% correct and approved method is a proper loft conversion, where new floor timbers are usually installed independent of what's underneath. Bl***y expensive mind!

So please chaps, no more 'Dens direct on ceiling joists only' talk...It can't be safely done and someone will get hurt!

I will now remove my joiner's hat, have a beer and read how Andrew's shed idea is progressing....

Cheers all,

Ron

 

[Guest]

It's ok Ron, i have still got my joiners hat firmly on my head and my pencil behind my ear.

 

[Guest]

As a matter of fact in my first years training as a joiner I actually fell through a ceiling at a customers house and landed on a bed with no injuries( very lucky) except to my pride and the bosses wallet.

 

[Guest]

The type of joists that you find in a loft are not designed to support the weight of a floor.The board you can buy from B&Q.Wickes etc for boarding lofts even when screwed down and interlocked it will flex when walked on causing the joists to move and the ceiling below to crack or worse (overtime the plaster board or laths will start coming away from the joists).A thicker board will add weight to the joists,but will not add strengh.They make the situation worse by adding weight to the joists something these type of joists are not designed to handle. The only way to avoid causing damage to the ceiling when installing a floor (which is what is suggested), is to strengthen and stiffen or replace the joists an alternative is to suspend the floor from the purlins or from RSJ's supported by the retaining walls.Putting it simply the issue is with the joists not the boards.I suggest you speak to a friendly builder for advice,after all this is a modeling board,it's one thing wrecking a model it's another if you bring your ceiling down. I don't speak as an expert but I do have a little knowledge and that is why I suggest you get an expert's advice.

I see Ron and Andy beat me

Malcolm