Soldering Iron?
- Thread starter Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds
- Start date
Hi Adrian. I have one like this, fully variable with variable temp/heat gun. Gives you more control.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Soldering-...&qid=1647003609&s=diy&sr=1-7&ts_id=1939419031
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Soldering-...&qid=1647003609&s=diy&sr=1-7&ts_id=1939419031
I have always found my 25 watt Antex iron is more than adequate for any job I throw at it. The advantage of this type is that the tips fit over, rather than in, the element so they are much easier to change. They also heat and recover quickly. The Solon/Weller type, where the tip fits into the element, tend to heat fuse in place so are difficult to change easily. A decent stand is a must as well.
I’ve used mine for everything from fine etch work, loco structural work, white metal work, to layout wiring. In my experience the best way to gain control is using the right shaped and sized tip and the correct solder and flux for the job.
I have never seen the need for a temperature controlled iron myself.
I’ve used mine for everything from fine etch work, loco structural work, white metal work, to layout wiring. In my experience the best way to gain control is using the right shaped and sized tip and the correct solder and flux for the job.
I have never seen the need for a temperature controlled iron myself.
I use a 60W thermostatic Weller, the type with a big heavy transformer in the base, that was thrown out at a company I worked for in the eighties. I have had to change the bit a couple of times, not too bad for 40-ish years, and as Tim said it's a bit of a pain to change, but it can be done. I put some graphite on the screw thread when replacing it to make it easier next time. Just did a search for a picture, but that type doesn't seem to be made any more! I'll try to take a photo later.
I've got one of those 25W Antex irons, but don't use it much, and also a rechargeable battery one from Sealey, which is useful when working outside.
I worked as an electronic engineer for many years, and sometimes came across items that had been damaged by excess heat when somebody had been soldering - this was often due to using an iron that was too small or too low powered, so it has to be held on the job for too long. I once had a sideline in removing integrated circuits from circuit boards and reselling them - I found the best way to heat all the pins at the same time was to use a gas blowtorch! That way I could melt the solder and pop the IC off the board before the heat had been conducted into it.
Pete
I've got one of those 25W Antex irons, but don't use it much, and also a rechargeable battery one from Sealey, which is useful when working outside.
I worked as an electronic engineer for many years, and sometimes came across items that had been damaged by excess heat when somebody had been soldering - this was often due to using an iron that was too small or too low powered, so it has to be held on the job for too long. I once had a sideline in removing integrated circuits from circuit boards and reselling them - I found the best way to heat all the pins at the same time was to use a gas blowtorch! That way I could melt the solder and pop the IC off the board before the heat had been conducted into it.
Pete
Good point in favour of the electronic workstation Pete. The bigger bits on the Antex make them good for long seam joints because they hold more energy. But the 60 watt workstation will have quicker recovery times for repeated dab and go electronic joints. I was thinking more in terms of hobby etch metal loco and coach construction than all day use for circuit board work.
Legal Notice
scalemodelling.co.uk is a privately operated online discussion forum. All content posted by members reflects their own views and opinions and does not necessarily represent those of the forum owners or administrators. While reasonable efforts are made to moderate content, no responsibility is accepted for user-generated material. By using this site, you agree to comply with UK law and the forum rules.