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I’ve long ago stopped building dioramas because of that space issue. I still need to find somewhere to put the blown-up M113 I built last year, which needed a base.
I'll keep giving it a shake as well, see if that'll help - though I might see about 'draining' it, don't mind if it's a bit 'stiff', rather than 'sloppy' for future use.Don't think it has to move Gerry, if it does one of the kids will say or move it for you.
Seen posts before about fillers separating, might take longer than a night to correct it, but worth a try .
That’s what I was talking about in my reply to your other remark about this puttyfirst time of using the Revell 'Plasto' not too sure that I'm all that keen on it, seems as though it's separated in the tube & I'm getting a lot of fluid coming out, and not much filler
Probably will squeeze it out - or let it run out, which seems to be what it wants to do! Oh well, onwards and upwards!That’s what I was talking about in my reply to your other remark about this putty :smiling3: Like I said there, simplest solution is to squeeze all the glue out of the tube.
I tend to cheat a little, and put too much on, then file back (then take too much off!) then give up & decide that 'it's close enough' and nobody's going to look that close anyway!Good try, not easy to add the right amount of head including the hair.
I agree - even when you go up in scale, they're still too thick (I've gone up to 1/6 I think) - think that most bike wheel spokes are around the 4mm mark, so getting them somewhere about right would mean at 1/35 scale a spoke that's .11 mm thick, then the lacing pattern (you'll notice that on this model, the spokes aren't overlapped) would probably mean horrendous costs, then trying to clean up the flash - it goes on forever, think I'll accept the 'shortcomings'! At least they aren't just molded onto a disc of plasticLooking good but being a biker myself I always think most model bike kits have spokes that look too thick.
Andy.
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