discussion Tirpitz with this and that, slow return for me

[Jim R]

That set of liquid pigments looks interesting. See how you get on

 

[BattleshipBob]

Me too lol! Just put a spare bit of wood deck on plastic card. Instructions say to varnish first.

 

[BattleshipBob]

The satin varnish seems to have done a good job of bringing out various shades of brown planks

Did make a start at the stern but overdid the bluey shadow. Must have left it dry too long so the remover didn't remove much. One to watch out for.


However the instructions, bugger all.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Good luck with the liquid pigment. I have an aircraft set that I simply didn’t get on with Bob. I found the remover stripped the underlying paint. Probably just me though. Looking very good otherwise though.

 

[BattleshipBob]

Good luck with the liquid pigment. I have an aircraft set that I simply didn’t get on with Bob. I found the remover stripped the underlying paint. Probably just me though. Looking very good otherwise though.

Hi Tim

So far ok, will see after its dried. But the lack of instructions is terrible.

 

[Steven000]

Bob, I asked the AI how to use the set, this is what it replied, perhaps it can help you out? Goodluck

That set is actually pretty powerful—but the instructions assume you already know “weathering” techniques. I’ll translate it into a practical, step-by-step workflow, specifically for a wooden deck on a ship model.

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Official demo (worth watching once)​

How to Use – Hulls & Wooden Decks Liquid Pigments

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What you actually bought (in plain terms)​

Your Lifecolor set contains liquid pigments, not normal paint. Think of them like:

• very thin washes / filters
• adjustable stains you can remove or blend

Typical colors in your set:

• Wooden Deck Darkener / Shadower → for wood tone variation
• Dried Salt → streaks & weathering
• Surface Shadower → panel lines & depth
• Fouling Green → algae/grime (mostly hull)
• Remover → this is key (lets you erase/blend everything)

They’re designed to be manipulated after application, not just painted on. (Chronos Engineering Tools)

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HOW TO USE IT (simple workflow for a wooden deck)​

1. Prep (this is where most people mess up)​

• Seal your deck with a clear satin or gloss coat
  • This is important → pigments flow better and don’t stain instantly
• Let it dry fully

If you skip this, the pigment will soak into wood and you lose control.

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2. Apply the pigment (light and messy on purpose)​

Use a fine brush:

• Dip into Wooden Deck Darkener or Shadower
• Apply lightly:
  • along plank lines
  • random planks (not all!)
  • around details

Don’t try to be neat.

You can:

• use it straight
• or slightly diluted with water (Chronos Engineering Tools)

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3. Blend / remove (this is the real technique)​

Now take:

• a clean brush slightly damp with water or Remover

Then:

• soften the lines
• wipe away excess
• drag pigment along planks

This creates:

• subtle shadows
• natural wood variation

Key idea:
You’re not painting—you’re editing the pigment after applying it.

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4. Add variation (don’t overdo it)​

Repeat with:

• darker tone → for deeper planks
• lighter/dried salt → for faded areas

You can layer effects, but:

• pigments will mix if applied on top of each other (Chronos Engineering Tools)

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5. Lock it in​

When happy:

• spray a clear coat (satin or matte)

Otherwise:

• everything stays removable

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Techniques that work especially well​

✔ Plank variation (most realistic look)​

• randomly darken individual planks
• blend edges softly

✔ Panel line shading​

• run pigment into plank seams
• clean excess → leaves subtle lines

✔ Filters (advanced but easy)​

• apply a very thin coat over whole deck
• wipe most of it off
  → creates a unified tone

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Common mistakes (avoid these)​

• Applying on raw wood → stains instantly, no control
• Using too much pigment → looks dirty instead of realistic
• Not using the remover → that’s half the system
• Trying to “paint cleanly” → this isn’t normal paint

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Mental model (this helps a lot)​

Think of the process like this:

Apply messy → then sculpt it with removal

That’s why Lifecolor says it behaves a bit like oils—you can push it around after applying. (Chronos Engineering Tools)

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Quick beginner recipe (follow this exactly once)​

1. Satin clear coat on deck
2. Apply Wooden Deck Shadower along plank lines
3. Wait ~1–2 minutes
4. Blend with damp brush
5. Randomly darken a few planks
6. Seal with clear coat

That alone already looks realistic.

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If you want, tell me:

• what ship scale you’re working on
• whether your deck is real wood veneer or plastic

I can give you a tailored technique (the approach changes quite a bit depending on that).

 

[BattleshipBob]

Bob, I asked the AI how to use the set, this is what it replied, perhaps it can help you out? Goodluck

Instructions, my 'part i sit on' the YouTube site just shows it being slapped on!

 

[BattleshipBob]

What I have done is to paint a separate plank either with the brown shadow or another with the bluey coloured darkener Also then mixed together, but of course randomly

Let it dry then using a brush remove using ( yes) remover. I have been almost dry brushing but next I'll load the brush more