Track Link Jig
- Thread starter Steve Jones
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Have you seen this:
Pete
Pete
G
For which type of track? Sherman tracks, for example, I find not too hard to assemble on a simple stick, so that the guide horns can stick down on both sides.
You may also be able to make a jig from epoxy putty: build a length of track (say, five to ten links), knead some epoxy together, place a piece of cling film over it, and press the track into it. Once the epoxy has hardened, you should have a jig that you can put loose links into for assembly.
You may also be able to make a jig from epoxy putty: build a length of track (say, five to ten links), knead some epoxy together, place a piece of cling film over it, and press the track into it. Once the epoxy has hardened, you should have a jig that you can put loose links into for assembly.
Now there is an idea Pete:thumb2: Dont have the plastic but maybe use wood
Its to be universal Jakko. Like the one in Pete's link where you can move it up and down to make sure the length of track is straight and square
I think wood is the way to go Jim. I just need to work out some sort of adjusting mechanism
Its to be universal Jakko. Like the one in Pete's link where you can move it up and down to make sure the length of track is straight and square
I think wood is the way to go Jim. I just need to work out some sort of adjusting mechanism
Would this work?
A plywood base with a fixed batten along one edge.
A moveable batten with two holes drilled for bolts.
Two slots cut in the base the same distance apart as the holes (Cut with a router or a series of holes and a coping saw. Alternatively you could cut two slots down the length of the base if you haven't got any way of cutting holes).
Two bolts with wingnuts and washers to clamp the moveable batten.
A plywood base with a fixed batten along one edge.
A moveable batten with two holes drilled for bolts.
Two slots cut in the base the same distance apart as the holes (Cut with a router or a series of holes and a coping saw. Alternatively you could cut two slots down the length of the base if you haven't got any way of cutting holes).
Two bolts with wingnuts and washers to clamp the moveable batten.
I was thinking about that myself tonite Jim. I would probably use it once or twice a year and it would not take much to make a fixed one each time
As for the perfect solution I hand you over to Dave.
That was the solution that was in my head Dave but had no idea how to put it into practice. My DIY skills and tools are limited so I may not be able to go as far as this. However that is the solution and I suggest you patent it:smiling5::smiling3:
Many thanks everyone for your input. I will rig something up tomorrow:thumb2::thumb2:
As for the perfect solution I hand you over to Dave.
That was the solution that was in my head Dave but had no idea how to put it into practice. My DIY skills and tools are limited so I may not be able to go as far as this. However that is the solution and I suggest you patent it:smiling5::smiling3:
Many thanks everyone for your input. I will rig something up tomorrow:thumb2::thumb2:
G
Excuse me Steve.
John .
Pete, great idea, I like the fact that CA will not stick to it. Ordered a board from EvilbayView attachment 327636.Only £3.69 , have some tool handles in workshop.
John .
Attachments
Morning Steve,
Interested to see where your quest takes you. I’ve always used two steel rules for assembly of the small tracks but would like to make something a bit better!
Interested to see where your quest takes you. I’ve always used two steel rules for assembly of the small tracks but would like to make something a bit better!
G
Then the epoxy putty method isn’t going to work, no. But the one in the video Pete posted isn’t as universal as it may look — it’ll be tricking using it with tracks with end connectors, I think. OTOH, it should work well enough with other types, so if you don’t intend to build Shermans, M60s, Leopards, etc. you’ll probably be fine
I've made track jigs before, but now I use a simple assembly, which is variable, and generally can be made from bits you have to hand.................View attachment 327653
Two metal strips ( not wood - you will glue the track links to it ) - I had some aluminium - 12mm x 3mm section length immaterial.
With a central guide horn on the links, use a spacer between the clamps, to suit the width - in this case a 2p coin.
View attachment 327654
View attachment 327655
With 2 guide horns sandwich metal strips, so the links straddle the jig.View attachment 327656
I used a steel rule, and some brass strip!
As long as the strips are metal - and straight!, you should be able to accommodate any width.
If the links don't have guide teeth, I simply use one of the metal strips as a straight edge to build against, using another strip to occasionally level the parts.
Sadly, I've not yet found an easy way to assemble end connector links - I think I have a Stuart somewhere, that I gave up on individual links, to preserve my sanity.
Dave
Two metal strips ( not wood - you will glue the track links to it ) - I had some aluminium - 12mm x 3mm section length immaterial.
With a central guide horn on the links, use a spacer between the clamps, to suit the width - in this case a 2p coin.
View attachment 327654
View attachment 327655
With 2 guide horns sandwich metal strips, so the links straddle the jig.View attachment 327656
I used a steel rule, and some brass strip!
As long as the strips are metal - and straight!, you should be able to accommodate any width.
If the links don't have guide teeth, I simply use one of the metal strips as a straight edge to build against, using another strip to occasionally level the parts.
Sadly, I've not yet found an easy way to assemble end connector links - I think I have a Stuart somewhere, that I gave up on individual links, to preserve my sanity.
Dave
Attachments
G
What you could do is use strips of the same width as the links between the end connectors, or slightly narrower — but certainly not wider. This way you could clamp links between the metal strips (you wouldn’t need spacers) and slide the end connectors on on both sides. One minor problem would be that you can only assemble pieces of a certain length, that you’ll then have to join outside the jig.
G
Dave I remember that jig well, in fact you mentioned it when I was having problems on MM , got the parts and it did the job .
G
Hello Pete,
You wanted cheap.
Spare wood from shed, 1/4 inch from old rocket sticks and odd plastic oh and one bit of bent brass wire.
For Sherman types etc.
View attachment 327847
And for all others or almost with centre track guide...
View attachment 327848
Hope this idea helps,
Cheers, Mike.
You wanted cheap.
Spare wood from shed, 1/4 inch from old rocket sticks and odd plastic oh and one bit of bent brass wire.
For Sherman types etc.
View attachment 327847
And for all others or almost with centre track guide...
View attachment 327848
Hope this idea helps,
Cheers, Mike.
G
Dam just out of rockets sticks. :smiling2:
G
Dave, JR, Jakko, Si and Mike (Whose Pete??:smiling5
Pete is your alter ego name, it was Rommel of Tunis but you changed that earlier. Matron said it's a common thing in the mentally insane, and not to worry George .
Yours
Albert Einstein.
Ward 9
Bed 6
Next to Allen and Si .
G
Evening , my order for a chopping board arrived. First thing was to test that CA didn't in fact stick to it .
Result ! Perfection, so now I have a neat sized gluing board. Next is to get the saw out and cut some section off .
Will post the completed jig when done .
John .
Result ! Perfection, so now I have a neat sized gluing board. Next is to get the saw out and cut some section off .
Will post the completed jig when done .
John .
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