discussion Vallejo Model Paint

[Guest]

Right, I'm off to Portman Road to watch Town slaughter Brentford (Sorry Patrick!!). I'll regret it, as ever - £60 for two seats (tiny, tiny cramped seats) is taking the mickey.

John! I didn't know that you are a " tractor boy "! I know you did us at home, but I'm hoping for justice today!

 

[Guest]

Keep at it Keith! Although I'm a confirmed enamel user (it's not too late to join us 'proper ' painters!) , I do sometimes use Vallejo for brush painting small parts & I've never had the issues you've described.


I made myself a paint stirrer that fits into the bottle once the nozzle is removed - far easier than shaking it to blazes!


Tinlets vs bottles?


In my experience, Vallejo is just as likely to come out in spurts rather than drops! Plus do we religiously count each drop?


If the nozzle bit isn't cleaned after use, it WILL harden & clog. The same result if I don't run a cotton bud around the rim of a tinlet.


Plus with enamels, you can handle the painted part within 24 hours & not have it rub off!

 

[spanner570]

I've just re-read the opening writings....


Part of the coverage problem will be using grey primer for a white top coat.


Remember the brush users prayer.......Dark over light.


Don't give up, it's fun.....

 

[Guest]

John! I didn't know that you are a " tractor boy "! I know you did us at home, but I'm hoping for justice today!

Yeah, well you got it really! Am now a part-time tractor boy who actually prefers Rugby now. Ref was the usual standard of current crop, ie rubbish! Your boys played their hearts out and your away fans did you proud! But £60 for the two of us, that's a third of a season ticket at Bayern Munich...

 

[Guest]

I have decided to completly remove all paint on some parts of the model. I cannot rub it down anymore because I will lose detail and ruin it. What sort of paint remover can I paint on that will not damage the model?

 

[Alan 45]

Oven cleaner works Kieth I use Mr muscle

 

[Guest]

Oven cleaner works Kieth I use Mr muscle

Okay thanks, I will give it a try.

 

[Alan 45]

Okay thanks, I will give it a try.

Just put it in a bag and spray it all over the model and seal it up


I forgot to mention that bit

 

[Guest]

Just put it in a bag and spray it all over the model and seal it up
I forgot to mention that bit

Okay thanks, seen my wife do that to the oven trays.

 

[Guest]

I've just re-read the opening writings....
Part of the coverage problem will be using grey primer for a white top coat.


Remember the brush users prayer.......Dark over light.


Don't give up, it's fun.....

Dark over light. Okay, originally I used a spray can and put on a white primer but I am a rubbish sprayer and had to rub it down. I then tried to get a brush on white primer but could only get grey, bear in mind my nearest supplier is a 30 mile round trip. I put on the grey no problem. I then put on the acrylic white coat, it took 4 coats and covered it perfectly. Unfortunately it was artist's paint and left brush marks so I had to rub it down again. This left some small patches with grey primer showing through. I then tried painting on Vellejo White but it didn't cover the grey at all, it was transparent. Following advice I took the nozzle of and gave it a thorough stir. I then sprayed again with white primer to get an even white covered base, this time it went on smoothly. I am now ready to again put on the top coats. The Vallejo is thicker than it was originally, but still very poor coverage. I have ordered some Humbrol acrylic and will try that when it arrives. Will keep you posted.

 

[Guest]

Keith no disrespect the paint is not the problem it is the technique. All paints work or they would not be on the market.


These are a good lot of tutorials advice on how to hand brush. This is the side that needs lots and lots of practice. Whether hand or airbrush each needs attention to technique and practice. It is a skill and takes time and patience to gain but once attained all is open to you.


http://www.finescale.com/~/media/import/files/pdf/c/f/9/basicsofbrushpainting.pdf


http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/painting-figures-with-model-color/blog/1/36


http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6168-how-to-hand-paint-larger-areas-of-a-model/


You may be able to find tutorials in video form which may help more.


If you are using Humbrol you also need their thinners to obtain the best results. Also any paint in a pallett needs constant topping up with thinners or a retarder added to keep the paint fluld otherewise it dries quickly and your results will not be good.


Laurie

 

[Guest]

Hi Laurie. I do not disagree with anything you say and many thanks for the useful links. Reading through this thread, and others I have started, you will note that for every recommendation made be it AB v brush or enamel v acrylic, or even the brand of paint to use, someone else has contradicted it. All very confusing for a beginner. The only way forward is to try these things for ourselves and learn through personal experience. I have already learned I am a brush person and that I prefer acrylics to enamels, all through personal experience. I now need to discover which make of paint best suits my style of painting so I will try a few and form my own opinion. I am however certain you are totally correct in saying that there is nothing wrong with Vellejo paints, after all they must have sold tons of the stuff, so it must be me, agreed! Thanks again for your advice which I always value. Cheers, Keith.

 

[Ian M]

For what it is worth why buy gloss paint....I only ever buy the ordinary one, Matt I s'pose. You get better coverage and you are going to varnish over it with gloss any way...


Also you can get a gloss medium which you can add to all the colours you have, thus doubling your paint locker..thinking about it you can get a metallic medium so you can have all your paints in any finish from mat to metallic.

 

[Guest]

For what it is worth why buy gloss paint....I only ever buy the ordinary one, Matt I s'pose. You get better coverage and you are going to varnish over it with gloss any way...
Also you can get a gloss medium which you can add to all the colours you have, thus doubling your paint locker..thinking about it you can get a metallic medium so you can have all your paints in any finish from mat to metallic.

Never knew that. That is worth knowing, thanks. Cheers, Keith.

 

[Guest]

I use gloss Xtracolor paints - no lumpy stuff at the bottom, and no need to apply multiple coats of gloss varnish! Takes longer to dry though

 

[Guest]

I use gloss Xtracolor paints - no lumpy stuff at the bottom, and no need to apply multiple coats of gloss varnish! Takes longer to dry though

Hi, why do you not need to apply gloss varnish?

 

[Guest]

Hi, why do you not need to apply gloss varnish?

Well, the gloss varnish serves 2 purposes - reduce decal silvering & allow washes to flow more freely.


If the paint is already gloss.... job done!


Having said that, a coat of acrylic-based gloss varnish wouldn't hurt to protect the paint if using oil paint washes.


But whereas it might take 3-4 coats to get a good gloss finish over matt paint, just one is required over gloss.

 

[takeslousyphotos]

I usually ease the spout off ......... drop a small nut in there then put the nozzle back on ......... Then give it a good shake.


Peter

 

[Guest]

I usually ease the spout off ......... drop a small nut in there then put the nozzle back on ......... Then give it a good shake.
Peter

I'm beginning to think that in my case the small nut is on the outside.

 

[BarryW]

Well, the gloss varnish serves 2 purposes - reduce decal silvering & allow washes to flow more freely.
If the paint is already gloss.... job done!


Having said that, a coat of acrylic-based gloss varnish wouldn't hurt to protect the paint if using oil paint washes.


But whereas it might take 3-4 coats to get a good gloss finish over matt paint, just one is required over gloss.

I rarely apply more than 1 coat of varnish over Vallejo Model Air before decalling. A second sealing coat goes on after decalling before I do a wash.


I never bothers me at all whether the base coat is gloss, has a slight sheen or is matt. The Tiffy main camo (see in the 2015 24 scale 'Super SIG) has a sheen sufficient to take a wash or decals (AKI acrylics) while the invasion stripes are matt, very matt in the case of the black (Vallejo Model Air). I will be painting in the roundels and these will have different finishes but at the end before I decal it will all get a coat of gloss varnish.