discussion Wash types and use

[Guest]

You need to use a decal softener like Micro Sol to get them well bedded-down into panel lines etc.


Then once the decals are fully dry, apply the gloss varnish over them. That way the wash will flow as easily over them as it does on the rest of the model.

 

[Guest]

One more doubt? Do you do anything special before a pin wash with oil over decals?


I just tried it on a P-51, which has many areas covered with stripped decals, and it's not getting well into the lines and rivets. I thought about using paint for those instead, but ended up going with the decals; now it's too late to go back.

I do exactly what Patrick does- that will do the trick. However, if it doesn't work, cut the decals with a fresh blade along the panel lines. to open up the underlying surface. Run the pin wash along, and it should work perfectly as well. However, this should be a last measure procedure.


John

 

[Guest]

I do exactly what Patrick does- that will do the trick. However, if it doesn't work, cut the decals with a fresh blade along the panel lines. to open up the underlying surface. Run the pin wash along, and it should work perfectly as well. However, this should be a last measure procedure.


John

Just ordered the softner Patrick recommended, though I'm afraid it would be too late for this model -don't think it will work one week after having placed the decals-; so thanks a lot for that tip.

 

[Guest]

Just ordered the softner Patrick recommended, though I'm afraid it would be too late for this model -don't think it will work one week after having placed the decals-; so thanks a lot for that tip.

I don't see why not (provided you haven't varnished over the decals).

 

[Guest]

I don't see why not (provided you haven't varnished over the decals).

I used a decal fixer, so I figured out it would be well dry by then and would not allow the decals to fill in the irregularities by applying the softener on top. I don’t really know, since I never used it before.


Anyway, I already varnished over yesterday morning, and just finished re-washing over the lines I marked with a blade; as John suggested.


Good to know for the next, so thanks.

 

[Guest]

Almost finished my first fully weathered model. Just needs a couple of details, uncover the canopy, and the final coat; in case I need to change anything.


I think it's overdone though. I mean, it doesn't look like in the pictures of the real one I saw on the web; specially of that exact plane. Anyway, criticism is allowed; as long as it is constructive.


View attachment 259552


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View attachment 259555


Looks dirty; don't you think?

 

[dave]

If you were looking at the same pics I was they are of the restored aircraft in a very clean state,  looking at wartime pictures of mustangs they are dirtier.


It looks fine to me. referring to photos I would have extended the exhaust staining a bit further towards the rear, but that is personal taste.

 

[Guest]

If you were looking at the same pics I was they are of the restored aircraft in a very clean state,  looking at wartime pictures of mustangs they are dirtier.


It looks fine to me. referring to photos I would have extended the exhaust staining a bit further towards the rear, but that is personal taste.

Yes, I considered that. But I could only find older pictures in black and white; so I wasn't able to use them as a guide. This is one of the best I found in color.

I also think you are right about the exhaust stain; in most pictures I saw it covers that whole panel; which actually looks as if it was replaced. The exhausts themselves also look of a darker tone than the silver recommended in the kit; even though I already used steel; which should had been darker)

I'll see what I can do to correct those problems. Thanks a lot for your comments.

 

[dave]

A point to note in the bottom picture you can see the whitish deposits on each exhaust pipe except the first, getting stronger as you go back, this is due to I believe lead in the fuel. And does not occur on German aircraft of the period due to a different fuel mix.

 

[Guest]

A point to note in the bottom picture you can see the whitish deposits on each exhaust pipe except the first, getting stronger as you go back, this is due to I believe lead in the fuel. And does not occur on German aircraft of the period due to a different fuel mix.

Thanks for point out those small details; all have been added.


Someone mentioned, don't remember in which thread, that the stage he most likes is research and planning; are those the types of things you look for while researching? I mean, is it only those last touches, our do you research anything else while and before building a new model -I'm asking specially in regards to aircraft modelling-?

 

[dave]

I think everyone is different.


I tend to look around and think about what I want to build next and then do some research, look at kit reviews and build reviews, before buying the kit.  I will do some research on the particular aircraft I am building and look around at pictures of that aircraft or the same type of aircraft, and check the paint call outs on the kit.  If I can find them pictures of the cockpit are useful.


That allows me to add small details missing from the kit or modify the kit slightly if necessary.


I am generally interested in history and military history in particular so I do a lot of reading around in general.

 

[Guest]

I read your posts 0n this forum and I have one question about washes. What do you think about 'Winsor & Newton' oil paints as a washes?

 

[Guest]

I read your posts 0n this forum and I have one question about washes. What do you think about 'Winsor & Newton' oil paints as a washes?

Any oil paints will make a decent wash, even those cheap Chinese sets of oil paints, but you do tend to get a smoother paint, the more money you spend.
W&N Georgian paints are pretty good value and plenty good enough for home-made washes, I recommend you use odourless thinners though, as white spirit whiffs a bit! Do make sure they are well mixed before using, and remember, washes are pretty much dirty thinners - ie very thin, always easier to put on a few layers!

 

[Guest]

Recommend burnt umber, burnt sienna, Paynes grey (rather than black - a transparent colour used for shadows and darkening the tone of paints) to kick off with.

 

[Guest]

HI John, thanks a lot for your advice.

 

[Thorbrand]

I seem to get away with using Humbrol black wash over a clear gloss coat and a cotton swab to wipe away excess. I find sometimes the wash doesn't always run down the line, so i encourage it with a cockstail stick and occasionally some bad language

 

[stillp]

Ah, that's where I'm going wrong. I've just been using the bad language.


Pete