discussion What glue?

[Gern]

Hi folks. Just a quickie. I've got a Trumpeter kit which uses an acetate slide to represent dials etc. which is sandwiched between two pieces of plastic. Am I right in thinking I can use a couple of drops of superglue to fix them together?

Gern

 

[Guest]

It might fog the acetate, I'd try canopy glue or PVA

 

[yak face]

Im with andy , superglue has a nasty habit of fogging or turning white when it reacts with certain types of plastic, best to err on the side of caution and use some sort of pva. tony

 

[Gern]

Thanks fellas! PVA it is then.

Gern

 

[Andy2035]

I use this from the shop...: - Microscale Micro Kristal Klear MSKK

Works very well...

 

[Ian M]

:lookupthere:

Which is great as the surplus glue that comes up through the dials dries to make a nice glass cover for the dial. Bonus!

Ian M

 

[Gern]

Must remember that one for future builds Ian! Problem is with this one, the clear 'cover' part for the dials is solid! How Trumpeter expect you to paint round the dials I'll never know. I painted the backing piece white and just the vertical edge of the clear piece (not the face) black. Once it's buttoned up in the cockpit I think it will look OK. I'll try and get a picture - but don't hold your breath 'cos my little camera doesn't like close-ups!

Gern

 

[Ian M]

Hmm What kit is this again, you only said its a Trumpeter...

Ian M

 

[BarryW]

Must remember that one for future builds Ian! Problem is with this one, the clear 'cover' part for the dials is solid! How Trumpeter expect you to paint round the dials I'll never know. I painted the backing piece white and just the vertical edge of the clear piece (not the face) black. Once it's buttoned up in the cockpit I think it will look OK. I'll try and get a picture - but don't hold your breath 'cos my little camera doesn't like close-ups!Gern

If it is like the solid clear dials on their Dauntless then try this after using a pva or Krystal Klear to fix the acetate to the back of the piece.

Mask the dial glass area using a liquid mask after cleaning the piece with alcohol. I apply the Microscale water soluble type with a cocktail stick. When it is dry I airbrush it with a primer to give the next coat a surface to grip and 24 hours later airbrush the appropriate colour. (It will work just as well with one of those hairy stick things but I might try Maskol instead of Microscale as Maskol is not water soluble and may work better in this instance with acrylic paints.) Anyway - I make sure it is left at least 48 hours to cure and then get a piece of sellotape on my finger and tap it around to reduce the stickyness of it a bit then I place it over the part and pull away leaving the nice neat round dials with the acetate dial details showing through. I did find that it was then a good idea to paint the back of the acetate black to help enhance the detail showing through.

I hope that helps.

 

[Gern]

Hi folks:

Ian - I didn't tell you what it was did I? Most remiss of me! :lol

Barry - Your idea of masking the dials is probably easier than trying to paint round them, but it still leaves the problem that my hands aren't steady enough to do the masking! Why Trumpeter didn't put holes in the clear piece I don't know. They do it with most of their kits and then the job is so simple - paint the back piece, paint the front piece, assemble! Easy peasy.

Gern

 

[Gern]

I managed to get a picture of the panel which shows up the dials. I think it looks OK - but I also thought I'd dealt with those ejector pin marks! Bit more sanding and painting to do.

Gern

PS Ian - do you recognise what it is now?

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