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When do you fade a model?

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BattleshipBob

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Morning all

I am about to attempt to fade a Stug using oils for the first time.

Now the ? do i fade straight after painting or after washes, etc etc

Does it need to be in varnish, if so matt or gloss? I have seen videos on YT show the models with washes, chips etc.

All new too me!!

Many thanks

Bob
 
Personally i do it in this order.... Gloss varnish, decals, wash, gloss varnish, oils, matt varnish...... Dont forget to give the oils loads of time to dry
 
Hi Bob, if you're talking about modulation then it's done before the above. Any extra highlights with a dry bush is done after and then you reseal with varnish. You will notice the very many times varnish is used so use a very thin coat or a varnish that dries thin like acrylics.

Cheers,
Richard
 
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Many thanks Sir

Been a while since i last did this, getting older!

Bob
 
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Hi Richard

I am having a first go at fading the panels to show sun damage, shade etc. I assume thats modulation, all new to me lol.

All the stuff i have seen shows the vehicle already with washes, chipping etc??
 
All the stuff i have seen shows the vehicle already with washes, chipping etc??

Yes, most finished models would have all the effects done. You will have to get one of the AK Interactive Catalogues to see the steps. The one I have is in English AK425. I guess they might have it on YouTube.

View attachment 338997 Here's a page from the catalogue on modulation.

Cheers,
Richard
 

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There are several ways to create a look that you are after. It took me three years to come up with my system and even now I swap stages around dependant on the look I am after. So if it were me I would do all the acrylic work first which includes modulation, camo work, decals and then chipping. The whole build would be given a matt varnish. I then do the oil work including pin washes, washes, filters , fading, shadowing and highlighting as I go around each panel. Others would do each oil stage individually all over the build one by one. So it's up to you to decide which system suits you best. Then once its all dry coat it again in matt varnish and make a start on the pigments and dust work. That's the general idea. After you have mastered the process after a few builds you can start to fine tune your system to create your own individual look. Good luck Bob and I look forward to seeing how it all goes
 
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Many thanks Richard, will have a look for that

Morning Steve and many thanks! Only one thing, i thought pin washes should be done on gloss varnish?? I might be wrong!!

I have a Hetzer in grey primer so i will use that as practice in case i ruin the Stug, now that would be a sin lol

Thanks for taking the time the both of you :thumb2:
 
You're not wrong Bob. It flows better on gloss varnish and is most preferred for aircraft modelling. For AFV's the rough look of the wash on matt varnish suites it better somehow. Makes the vehical slow and grungy looking. :smiling6:

Cheers,
Richard
 
Many thanks Richard, will have a look for that

Morning Steve and many thanks! Only one thing, i thought pin washes should be done on gloss varnish?? I might be wrong!!

I have a Hetzer in grey primer so i will use that as practice in case i ruin the Stug, now that would be a sin lol

Thanks for taking the time the both of you :thumb2:


Hi Bob

You can use either or. I just prefer Matt Varnish as the pin washes do not spread out as much as they do on a Gloss Varnish. This way you keep more control and less cleaning up needed
 
Thread owner
Excellant Steve

What was the yellow oil paint used mentioned for panzer grey,???

Thanks yet again steve

Bob
 
For Panzer Grey fading I use a combination of Zinc White and Naples Yellow Hue . Apply a small amount (pin head size) and work in with a very slightly moist brush with thinner until no surplus is remaining. Then compare to an untreated panel and see the difference. If you want to fade more add more but in very small quantities. Oil paint goes a looooooong way :smiling3:
 
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