Just moved house which has freed up some money.So i thought i'd treat myself to a good quality airbrush before the wife spends it all on a new kitchen and bathroom!.I've decided to get an Iwata Revolution with the 0.3mm conversion as its very popular with the members of this forum.What i need is advice on a good compressor to use with it please?.And does any one know if the shop site is down as i cant seem to access it ?.
Which Compressor
- Thread starter Dave W
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G
Shop site is working for me Dave.
Laurie
Laurie
G
Likewise, shop seems OK here, if you're still having access probs maybe try a different browser?
One thing i'll say on the airbrush, don't rush to getting the conversion set, not that I want to do John out of a sale but I honestly don't believe it's needed, i've just bought a CR from John and the trigger control is so precise and linear you can paint very fine lines without even trying with the 0.5.
This pic is a quick writing effort with the first batch of Tamiya semi gloss black through it and you can see how fine that is, that's without putting any effort in.
I can get as fine a line with this as I can with my 0.3mm chinese cheapy.
Compressor wise, a standard hobby compressor with a tank, i have one without, i've used it for 2 years and done some prolonged spraying with it, it's still fine, i'd recommend more importantly you get an inline moisture trap that goes under the AB and a quick release connector
One thing i'll say on the airbrush, don't rush to getting the conversion set, not that I want to do John out of a sale but I honestly don't believe it's needed, i've just bought a CR from John and the trigger control is so precise and linear you can paint very fine lines without even trying with the 0.5.
This pic is a quick writing effort with the first batch of Tamiya semi gloss black through it and you can see how fine that is, that's without putting any effort in.
I can get as fine a line with this as I can with my 0.3mm chinese cheapy.
Compressor wise, a standard hobby compressor with a tank, i have one without, i've used it for 2 years and done some prolonged spraying with it, it's still fine, i'd recommend more importantly you get an inline moisture trap that goes under the AB and a quick release connector
I use one of those Chinese jobs! It says AS196 on the label so I guess that's the model number. It works fine for me and with a 3l air tank it only runs very intermittently when doing normal hobby spraying which keeps SWMBO happy.
Moisture trap is a good call. Quick release is a bonus. I just unscrew mine,maybe I need to move into the 21st century with m1ks
!
Cheers
Steve
Moisture trap is a good call. Quick release is a bonus. I just unscrew mine,maybe I need to move into the 21st century with m1ks
!Cheers
Steve
G
In no way is the QR a necessity Steve, the main reason I got one is due to a few years working in a garage with a compressor, sprayguns and airtools, it was handy to just click, release, store select new item etc.
A few spare male connectors and you can have one on each item and quick click, to mount or dismount, i find it handy for things like taking my brush to my bench across the room to mix and load paint into the cup without trailing the hose and potentially tripping myself over it or yanking my compressor from it's corner.
Also less wear on tightening the O ring in the screw adapter as you only fit it once
The moisture trap is absolutely esential, after a long session the airline gets hot and condensation forms, I ruined an enamel spray job I was halfway through when it suddenly started spitting water, I was so annoyed but managed to clean and repaint the piece, got a water trap immediately after that, (this is in addition to the one on the compressor btw Dave)
A few spare male connectors and you can have one on each item and quick click, to mount or dismount, i find it handy for things like taking my brush to my bench across the room to mix and load paint into the cup without trailing the hose and potentially tripping myself over it or yanking my compressor from it's corner.
Also less wear on tightening the O ring in the screw adapter as you only fit it once
The moisture trap is absolutely esential, after a long session the airline gets hot and condensation forms, I ruined an enamel spray job I was halfway through when it suddenly started spitting water, I was so annoyed but managed to clean and repaint the piece, got a water trap immediately after that, (this is in addition to the one on the compressor btw Dave)
** *C-IW-SMARTP* *Iwata Studio Series Smart Jet Pro compressor* *£230.00* *
This is the model that's on my birthday list it a bit pricey but it will last a life time the good thing about is it quiet and when you realise the trigger it cuts it self of till you push the button again
The air brush I use is the itawa eclipse real easy to use and clean
Geegad
This is the model that's on my birthday list it a bit pricey but it will last a life time the good thing about is it quiet and when you realise the trigger it cuts it self of till you push the button again
The air brush I use is the itawa eclipse real easy to use and clean
Geegad
G
Interesting that a good number of model makers use brushes which are not top branded which get results.
So are the top brands that good. As I have said before how many of us have used more than one branded brush. Not a clue if my airbrush is better or not so good as another. Just wonder if in a concentrated area a group could have a airbrush "in".
I have two Evolution Harder & Steenbeck & would be prepared to send to some one who the group could then evaluate the advantages & disadvantages with other airbrushes. Not me as I have only had a limited experience. But say two or three who are well experienced. Best if they did it together but as needs must one at a time.
On the matters in hand I would definetly go for a quick release on the airbrush. At the end of a session I un-hook and take the airbrush to the sink & dismantle & clean head to toe. Do this every time & it pays dividends. About 4 mins. a clean head to toe every bit apart & cleaned included reaming the nozzle & chimney sweeping through the brush. Then finally a cup of Vallejo Airbrush cleaner to lubricate & give a final clean.
On the compressor front you do not need a pressure tank unless you are going to run the compressor night & day. Most model makers will not run the thing for more than an hour a day, if that. The difference in quality of finish is nil (proved that as my original was a pressure tank). The only reason for a pressure tank is to save the motor running all the time while airbrushing. However some may find the cutting in & off more annoying than continous running. I do not even notice that the thing is running.
Laurie
So are the top brands that good. As I have said before how many of us have used more than one branded brush. Not a clue if my airbrush is better or not so good as another. Just wonder if in a concentrated area a group could have a airbrush "in".
I have two Evolution Harder & Steenbeck & would be prepared to send to some one who the group could then evaluate the advantages & disadvantages with other airbrushes. Not me as I have only had a limited experience. But say two or three who are well experienced. Best if they did it together but as needs must one at a time.
On the matters in hand I would definetly go for a quick release on the airbrush. At the end of a session I un-hook and take the airbrush to the sink & dismantle & clean head to toe. Do this every time & it pays dividends. About 4 mins. a clean head to toe every bit apart & cleaned included reaming the nozzle & chimney sweeping through the brush. Then finally a cup of Vallejo Airbrush cleaner to lubricate & give a final clean.
On the compressor front you do not need a pressure tank unless you are going to run the compressor night & day. Most model makers will not run the thing for more than an hour a day, if that. The difference in quality of finish is nil (proved that as my original was a pressure tank). The only reason for a pressure tank is to save the motor running all the time while airbrushing. However some may find the cutting in & off more annoying than continous running. I do not even notice that the thing is running.
Laurie
Many people use cheaper airbrushes which are usually copies of the more expensive brand names with good results. Whereas you always pay for the "badge" of a premium brand the more expensive brushes are better built and use better materials,particularly in the all important seals,O rings,etc.
My oldest airbrush is an Iwata that I have been using for many years. The chrome has gone from the bottom of the paint bowl,leaving a brassy finish,but apart from that and one replacement nozzle (and inevitably a couple of needles) I have never changed anything else in it. It works as well today as the day I bought it. I very much doubt that one of the cheaper copies will perform like that.
I would advise getting a compresor with a reservoir. It may not be essential but it will prevent any pulsing of your air supply and give an even and constant flow.
M1ks/Laurie I think I'll look at some quick releases,it seems like a sensible option,particularly as I do swop brushes in the middle of a job. I'm not quite as conscientious about cleaning as some of you
Cheers
Steve
My oldest airbrush is an Iwata that I have been using for many years. The chrome has gone from the bottom of the paint bowl,leaving a brassy finish,but apart from that and one replacement nozzle (and inevitably a couple of needles) I have never changed anything else in it. It works as well today as the day I bought it. I very much doubt that one of the cheaper copies will perform like that.
I would advise getting a compresor with a reservoir. It may not be essential but it will prevent any pulsing of your air supply and give an even and constant flow.
M1ks/Laurie I think I'll look at some quick releases,it seems like a sensible option,particularly as I do swop brushes in the middle of a job. I'm not quite as conscientious about cleaning as some of you
Cheers
Steve
Ive been using a £40 Spraymaster airbrush for the past year.Its been a better tool than my Badger.But i keep bending the softish needle when cleaning the brush.Then i lost an 'o'ring and had to use an alternative as i havent been able to get any spare parts.Mycheap compressor pulses as well.I just want somethig better quality as i can now afford it.
G
hey laurie , one sentence in your post made my hair stand on end " take it over to the sink and dismantle". i used to do this seemingly uneventfull task......until i dropped a tip and head and it went straight down the plug hole with the running water and was never seen again.i use a paint roller tray now.
G
Andrew we are more advanced in Jersey we have plugs ?
Laurie
Laurie
G
I'd be interested in getting involved in a comparison test, having now used a few, badger sa, cheap chinese, spraymaster and now the iwata.\ said:
If you have any ideas on the how's and methods to test then give me a shout?
G
lol\ said:
I'm not sure what a comparison between comparable H+S and Iwata brushes will show apart from a personal preference. I've had the opportunity to try a couple of H+S brushes and as far as functionality goes there really isn't anything to choose between them and my own Iwatas. They are both quality tools. It's largely then down to how they feel in the hand or what you are accustomed to.
I can't speak for some of the copies but would wonder if they will still be working in ten years time. A quality airbrush certainly should be.
Andrew we've got plugs here in Brum too I still don't clean my airbrushes over the sink! I use various containers to soak and then rinse the parts.
Big sink and small parts :lol:
Cheers
Steve
I can't speak for some of the copies but would wonder if they will still be working in ten years time. A quality airbrush certainly should be.
Andrew we've got plugs here in Brum too
I still don't clean my airbrushes over the sink! I use various containers to soak and then rinse the parts.Big sink and small parts :lol:
Cheers
Steve
G
Great Mike. So we have one person so far & one Harder & Steenback brush which can be past around for trial.\ said:
Any other person & any other Airbrushes which can be passed around other than a Harder & Steenbeck ? Think we need at least four people & say 3 quality brushes to start a comparison.
Laurie
G
My last was overtaken by yours Steve.
That was really the idea Steve. To see one if the brushes were any better in their performance in a range of uses. Also to extract the preferences from individuals in their use.
I thought this may help those who are embarking on buying what is one of the most expensive items in modelling.
I keep hearing about Iawata & also Harder & Steenbeck which seem to be the most popular but why.
A lesson I learnt when HD arrived for Video. All were saying this is the grand future. However the Institute I belonged to at that time had three cameras, 1 HD & 2 DV of the same manufacturer tested by a group. The results were quite different to what was expected & assumed. All had advantages & disadvantages none could you say suited all or even the majority. But the major result was that they distinguished which cameras would work best in different situations.
Laurie
That was really the idea Steve. To see one if the brushes were any better in their performance in a range of uses. Also to extract the preferences from individuals in their use.
I thought this may help those who are embarking on buying what is one of the most expensive items in modelling.
I keep hearing about Iawata & also Harder & Steenbeck which seem to be the most popular but why.
A lesson I learnt when HD arrived for Video. All were saying this is the grand future. However the Institute I belonged to at that time had three cameras, 1 HD & 2 DV of the same manufacturer tested by a group. The results were quite different to what was expected & assumed. All had advantages & disadvantages none could you say suited all or even the majority. But the major result was that they distinguished which cameras would work best in different situations.
Laurie
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