G
Jakko looks good , have you seen these, probably have but just in case.
http://afvdb.50megs.com/usa/pics/m113.html.
John.
http://afvdb.50megs.com/usa/pics/m113.html.
John.
G
Thanks for those, nothing I didn’t know yet, but more pictures never hurt 
G
More added details on the other side of the engine:
View attachment 401344
The large tube (engine oil filler) is 1.5 mm brass rod with a plastic disc on the end for its cap, the round green thing (transmission-differential oil cooler) is sprue, with solder for the pipework. The pipe running to the front need to go to the bottom of the differential. The loose part is plastic rod and punched discs to make up the differential oil filter, but I haven’t yet figured out how it’s attached to the engine, so it’s still loose. It also needs a tube on the top that looks like it connects to the oil cooler, but I’m not sure yet of that either.
This is the kind of work I don’t enjoy, to be honest. If I had (good views of) a real engine, I’d build this in no time, but because all I have are two small airbrushed photos of one, it’s a lot of puzzling that I makes me quit every time I’ve built a part
View attachment 401344
The large tube (engine oil filler) is 1.5 mm brass rod with a plastic disc on the end for its cap, the round green thing (transmission-differential oil cooler) is sprue, with solder for the pipework. The pipe running to the front need to go to the bottom of the differential. The loose part is plastic rod and punched discs to make up the differential oil filter, but I haven’t yet figured out how it’s attached to the engine, so it’s still loose. It also needs a tube on the top that looks like it connects to the oil cooler, but I’m not sure yet of that either.
This is the kind of work I don’t enjoy, to be honest. If I had (good views of) a real engine, I’d build this in no time, but because all I have are two small airbrushed photos of one, it’s a lot of puzzling that I makes me quit every time I’ve built a part
G
View attachment 402594
Most of the steering linkages are now installed, together with the floor for the driver’s compartment (suitably bent) and I glued the torsion bars to the floor. To give an idea of the size of all this, the torsion bars are 1 mm brass rod, the connecting rods to the differential are 0.5 mm plastic rod.
It still needs the connecting rods and some springs between the steering handles and the transverse rod at the front. I’m going to leave out most of the engine compartment walls, because I think they probably got blown away in the explosion, judging by the photo of the real thing.
Most of the steering linkages are now installed, together with the floor for the driver’s compartment (suitably bent) and I glued the torsion bars to the floor. To give an idea of the size of all this, the torsion bars are 1 mm brass rod, the connecting rods to the differential are 0.5 mm plastic rod.
It still needs the connecting rods and some springs between the steering handles and the transverse rod at the front. I’m going to leave out most of the engine compartment walls, because I think they probably got blown away in the explosion, judging by the photo of the real thing.
G
I think this area is largely finished now:
View attachment 402698View attachment 402699
I put in most of the detail that I figure might have been there, though it’s part guesswork due to lack of photos, and also glued the engine in place now, together with the remains of the firewall behind it. The engine is deliberately crooked, to make it appear it has been torn off its mountings.
View attachment 402698View attachment 402699
I put in most of the detail that I figure might have been there, though it’s part guesswork due to lack of photos, and also glued the engine in place now, together with the remains of the firewall behind it. The engine is deliberately crooked, to make it appear it has been torn off its mountings.
G
I’ve now added most of the details on the left side of the hull:
View attachment 403350
Most of this is just bits of plastic card, strip and rod — the work isn’t difficult, but figuring out what there should be, and where it’s located, is. Also, all those tie-downs are very tedious to put in: two punched discs of very thin plastic card with a bit of plastic rod glued over the top. There’s 28 of those in this photo alone, and I probably need to add even more to the other side of the hull
The only kit parts are the flashlight and a spare .50 calibre machine gun barrel, which still needs straps to connect it to its tie-downs.
I still need to add a bunch of other things, but most of those should be fairly easy. There will be no instrument panel, nor the boxes below it, because I figure (from the photo of the real hing) those were ripped away by the explosion. The panel, for example, is on the real thing only held on by four metal strips (and a bunch of cables, of course). Similarly, I’ll leave out the driver’s seat — the bracket on the lower hull side is its support (contrary to what model kit makers have wanted us to believe for 45 years, the M113’s driver’s seat is not on a pillar that sits on the floor).
Also note the weld scars for the rear fuel tank and (less obvious) the plate at the front of the driver’s compartment. I made these by gluing lengths of plastic strip to the model, and then ripping them off again once the glue had set.
View attachment 403350
Most of this is just bits of plastic card, strip and rod — the work isn’t difficult, but figuring out what there should be, and where it’s located, is. Also, all those tie-downs are very tedious to put in: two punched discs of very thin plastic card with a bit of plastic rod glued over the top. There’s 28 of those in this photo alone, and I probably need to add even more to the other side of the hull
The only kit parts are the flashlight and a spare .50 calibre machine gun barrel, which still needs straps to connect it to its tie-downs.
I still need to add a bunch of other things, but most of those should be fairly easy. There will be no instrument panel, nor the boxes below it, because I figure (from the photo of the real hing) those were ripped away by the explosion. The panel, for example, is on the real thing only held on by four metal strips (and a bunch of cables, of course). Similarly, I’ll leave out the driver’s seat — the bracket on the lower hull side is its support (contrary to what model kit makers have wanted us to believe for 45 years, the M113’s driver’s seat is not on a pillar that sits on the floor
).Also note the weld scars for the rear fuel tank and (less obvious) the plate at the front of the driver’s compartment. I made these by gluing lengths of plastic strip to the model, and then ripping them off again once the glue had set.
Hello Jakko,
Just caught up with your build, and full marks to you.
I remember when I scratchbuild mine back in the late 1970's, nowhere near as involved as yours, but we had to go with what we had - Profile Publication for the plans. 1/48 Centurion wheels from a company called Aurora and plenty of p/card, also did the M-577 but both were to 1/32 scale.
Mike.
Just caught up with your build, and full marks to you.
I remember when I scratchbuild mine back in the late 1970's, nowhere near as involved as yours, but we had to go with what we had - Profile Publication for the plans. 1/48 Centurion wheels from a company called Aurora and plenty of p/card, also did the M-577 but both were to 1/32 scale.
Mike.
G
Thanks, Mike This is one of those things where you think, “It's an M113, it’ll be straightforward” … And I must say that you were probably lucky with the limited resources you had back then, because so far I think I’ve spent more time trying to figure things out than actually building them. All this information we have at our fingertips nowadays actually doesn’t make it easier on the builder … who knew there’s so much stuff on the inside of an armoured vehicle? 
This is one of those things where you think, “It's an M113, it’ll be straightforward” … And I must say that you were probably lucky with the limited resources you had back then, because so far I think I’ve spent more time trying to figure things out than actually building them. All this information we have at our fingertips nowadays actually doesn’t make it easier on the builder … who knew there’s so much stuff on the inside of an armoured vehicle? 
Hi Jakko
Jim
Always impressive. Tedious tie downs indeed but necessary. I suppose that when the references are available you go for it and make a load of work for yourself.
Jim
G
That’s what I meant, indeed: if you don’t know it’s there, you’re not going to build it. But with the references we have now, you (well, I ) will often find yourself noticing things that “need” to be added, and then having great difficulty finding out what they are and how they fit, exactly. In other words: one the one hand, we have too much, on the other, too little
) will often find yourself noticing things that “need” to be added, and then having great difficulty finding out what they are and how they fit, exactly. In other words: one the one hand, we have too much, on the other, too little 
Jakko,
All coming on very nicely with some nice detailing.
All coming on very nicely with some nice detailing.
G
Not easy to model damage Jakko, its looking good.
G
Thanks, guys
G
I think I’m finally done with those tie-downs. Or so I hope Here is the right-hand side of the hull, with forty of the @£&*@%ing things I had to put on:
View attachment 403696
There is also a plate on the upper part of the lower hull side, which isn’t present on model kits with an interior, but — surprise, surprise — is on the real thing. I also had to put one in on the left-hand side, together with more tie-downs:
View attachment 403697
For the first attempt, I put the extra plate along the entire length, which meant removing the seat support and foot rest. After putting them back on, I found a photo that shows the plate to end just behind the seat … sigh So, after cutting through it at the right point, off the front section came again. That left me having to fill the scars caused by pulling it off, of course, and that still remains to be sanded down before I can re-add the support and foot rest.
But I’m getting there
Here is the right-hand side of the hull, with forty of the @£&*@%ing things I had to put on:View attachment 403696
There is also a plate on the upper part of the lower hull side, which isn’t present on model kits with an interior, but — surprise, surprise — is on the real thing. I also had to put one in on the left-hand side, together with more tie-downs:
View attachment 403697
For the first attempt, I put the extra plate along the entire length, which meant removing the seat support and foot rest. After putting them back on, I found a photo that shows the plate to end just behind the seat … sigh So, after cutting through it at the right point, off the front section came again. That left me having to fill the scars caused by pulling it off, of course, and that still remains to be sanded down before I can re-add the support and foot rest.
But I’m getting there
Lovely work Jakko keep it up.
G
Slowly but steadily … Though it has to be finished in about three weeks’ time, so maybe I should get a move on …
Though it has to be finished in about three weeks’ time, so maybe I should get a move on …
G
The driver’s position is now largely finished, with rifle racks as well:
View attachment 403950
Though I’m wondering whether to also include the boxes that should be here, like the master switch, because if the racks were still present, those probably would be too.
I’ve also been working on the rear:
View attachment 403949
The mudguards and tail lights are Academy, the tan plate behind the left-hand light is Italeri and the guards above the lights are Tamiya. Everything else is strip and rod and stuff, as per usual by now The jerrycans are Italeri, with new caps made from a punched disc and some strip, because the Italeri set has fuel cans while pictures of ARVN M113s mostly show water cans being carried on the rear. They still need their straps, of course, and some more details also need to be added to the rear plates still.
The lower part of the rear plate that has broken in two, is plastic card formed to shape based on the dimensions of the AFV Club M113 hull. To get an authentic-looking break, I made a small cut in the top and then tore it in two with my hands. For convenience, I will assume its counterpart at the top has vanished together with the roof plate
View attachment 403950
Though I’m wondering whether to also include the boxes that should be here, like the master switch, because if the racks were still present, those probably would be too.
I’ve also been working on the rear:
View attachment 403949
The mudguards and tail lights are Academy, the tan plate behind the left-hand light is Italeri and the guards above the lights are Tamiya. Everything else is strip and rod and stuff, as per usual by now
The jerrycans are Italeri, with new caps made from a punched disc and some strip, because the Italeri set has fuel cans while pictures of ARVN M113s mostly show water cans being carried on the rear. They still need their straps, of course, and some more details also need to be added to the rear plates still.The lower part of the rear plate that has broken in two, is plastic card formed to shape based on the dimensions of the AFV Club M113 hull. To get an authentic-looking break, I made a small cut in the top and then tore it in two with my hands. For convenience, I will assume its counterpart at the top has vanished together with the roof plate
G
In that case, I’m wondering why this is taking me so long
G
The rear plates are now mostly done:
View attachment 404100
The jerrycans are in place with their straps, everything hanging to the sides because of course, the sides of the vehicle will be almost flat on the ground. I also glued strip to the edges of the rear ramp opening.
At the front, I glued the glacis plate to the bow:
View attachment 404101
It’s almost vertical rather than angled back like on a complete M113. This is not how it sits in the original photo, but I can’t work out how it’s attached there, so this seems a good compromise. The pipe is 1.5 mm copper wire, an electrical cable with the insulation stripped off. This turned out to be far harder to work with than I expected, as it’s much tougher and harder material than I thought it would be, but I didn’t have any good alternatives so I had to make do with it The brackets on it are aluminium strip, cut from an offset printing plate. I also added the front bilge pump (the white plastic box that the L-shaped bit of tube runs to) on the floor — that’s what the pipe is for, expelling bilge water.
I now also intend to put a piece of interior wall in here anyway, stuck to the back of the glacis plate. This would make more sense than the wall being entirely gone, I think.
View attachment 404100
The jerrycans are in place with their straps, everything hanging to the sides because of course, the sides of the vehicle will be almost flat on the ground. I also glued strip to the edges of the rear ramp opening.
At the front, I glued the glacis plate to the bow:
View attachment 404101
It’s almost vertical rather than angled back like on a complete M113. This is not how it sits in the original photo, but I can’t work out how it’s attached there, so this seems a good compromise. The pipe is 1.5 mm copper wire, an electrical cable with the insulation stripped off. This turned out to be far harder to work with than I expected, as it’s much tougher and harder material than I thought it would be, but I didn’t have any good alternatives so I had to make do with it
The brackets on it are aluminium strip, cut from an offset printing plate. I also added the front bilge pump (the white plastic box that the L-shaped bit of tube runs to) on the floor — that’s what the pipe is for, expelling bilge water.I now also intend to put a piece of interior wall in here anyway, stuck to the back of the glacis plate. This would make more sense than the wall being entirely gone, I think.
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