discussion Working with tiny PE bits

[Guest]

I came across a hint and I cannot for the life of me remember where I got it, else I'd share it with you.

Perhaps you experts already do something similar but you never know.

When wanting to pick up a tiny peice of PE and place it onto a model, take a cocktail stick, dip it into Masking fluid and then pick up the PE peice with the masking fluid on the end of the cocktail stick..

Add a small drop of CA glue to the place on the model where the PE is to go. The CA is stickier than the masking fluid and the PE will adhere to the CA, leaving the cocktail stick. Remove the masking fluid when dry.

Simples!

 

[Alan 45]

Great tip and ill be doing a lot of small pe I'd just like to know what CA is? This is a first time time doing pe and I want to get it right

 

[Guest]

Superglue Alan. Though others may not use it. I'm sure they'll comment.

 

[Ian M]

CA is the quick way of writing super-glue. Cyanoacrylate is almost impossible to spell as well.

Ian M

 

[Guest]

Another thing I have found Aidan. Small plastic sticks. On top is a sticky material but does not leave a residue yet easily releases. Come in packs & each can be reused. Not at home so cannot tell you were to get them. But will do when I get to the old homestead.

Laurie

 

[Alan 45]

Thanks Av and Ian I need to learn the modeling terminology for these things

 

[stona]

Also CA glue comes in various viscosities. You don't want an ultra thin, water like glue for attaching little bits of PE as you will never keep it where you want it. You'll end up with bits stuck to the wrong part of the model, you, your dog/cat/budgie (delete as applicable) and the work bench. Get a thick CA or even a gel which will be much more manageable. It is also worth considering getting some accelerator. This is just a fluid you can squirt at the glue to make it set almost instantly, quite useful when you are holding an almost invisible piece of etch in place. Water will work as an accelerator but the brand versions are more convenient, last for ages, and don't cost a fortune.

Make a special applicator. Take a regular sewing needle. Cut off the top half of the eye, leaving a small U shape, a decent pair of side cutters will do this. Stick the sharp end in a cork or dowel. This gives a bit of a handle and stops you sticking it in your fingers! Voila! that little U is perfect for getting a little drop od CA where you want it (not the dog/cat/budgie/etc). After use clean your new tool with a wipe of acetone based nail varnish remover to prevent it becoming a needle with a blob of CA glue at the end.

These small etch parts are not difficult but they are a bit of a fiddle and anything that makes it a bit less of a fiddle must be a good thing.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

On Superglue, I used it for the first time about two months ago. It is the rapid type (sets in 2 to 5 seconds). I learned two things. First, the nozzle had to be cut off. I used my side cutters but spilt some on my fingers. I knew immediately not to touch anything, not even another finger, and wiped it off immediately with a paper towel. The rapid type sticks skin together quickly and strongly, probably requiring a hospital visit, especially if you had touched you face! Second, I used too much and it didn't set. Only a pin-head amount is necessary.

I will not use Superglue to attach the undercarriage of my 1/72 Lancaster (which has several parts and joints to be positioned and glued at the same time). Even the slowest setting Superglue would, I think, rush things too much. I will use Evostick contact glue (not the 2-part epoxy because Araldite, the original 2-part epoxy, does not work well with plastics). The contact glue is helpfully sticky which keeps small parts in place while setting.

Although I have not used Superglue much, I think it is true that putting the parts together and then applying the glue is not the correct way, which is to put the tiny blob of glue on one part then hold the other part to it. It seems to react when parts are first put together but someone else with more experience could comment.

Also, I read that if Superglue is applied to a part that has been painted, then like any glue, the bond will be only as strong as the bond between the paint and the plastic part. I have read that it is best to avoid paint getting on to glued joints (either by masking or scraping it off).

 

[Alan 45]

Thanks for the tips guys this is also an excuse to crack open a bottle of wine tonight

 

[stona]

Steve, putting the parts together and then applying glue will only work with very thin (low viscosity)versions of CA which will work along the joint by capillary action. I don't think it is suitable for attaching small pieces as it will find its way elsewhere and potentially make a real mess.

Thin CA, just like thin plastic cement, works well along longer seams. Some modellers like to use it this way, though I am not one of them.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

Warm soapy water will, in time, allow glued fingers to be separated if you allow it to seep in. Otherwise acetone in the form of nail varnish remover will also do the trick.

 

[Guest]

Another little tip which I`m sure most will know is to stick the pe part on a bit of masking tape when cutting from the sprue, it stops the carpet monster eating the part that goes pinging off .

Richy

 

[Guest]

Another little tip which I`m sure most will know is to stick the pe part on a bit of masking tape when cutting from the sprue, it stops the carpet monster eating the part that goes pinging off .Richy

Really useful tip Richy. My carpet must be filled with bits!!!