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WW1 trench scene.

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Thanks for the kind words Terry.
I guess the dog shelf is better than the dog house;)
Only get in there when SWSBO finds another kit coming through the door :D
 
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Great paintwork so far!


Mmmm :rolleyes: I'm really wishing to see how you paint the trench!
 
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\ said:
Great paintwork so far!
Mmmm :rolleyes: I'm really wishing to see how you paint the trench!
Thanks for the kind words Polux.


So am I!.. :)
 
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Very nice shading on the water bottles and the chipped helmet looks great. This I going to be a bit special.
 
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\ said:
Very nice shading on the water bottles and the chipped helmet looks great. This I going to be a bit special.
Thanks Graham.


For the helmet I tried a new technique.I base painted with Tamiya gun metal then over this a day later I sprayed on a light field grey.after this had dried for a few hours,I gave it to Girly(my kitten) to play with and Voila..I then added a bit of dark brown with a sponge.


Ralph.
 
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\ said:
Thanks Graham.
For the helmet I tried a new technique.I base painted with Tamiya gun metal then over this a day later I sprayed on a light field grey.after this had dried for a few hours,I gave it to Girly(my kitten) to play with and Voila..I then added a bit of dark brown with a sponge.


Ralph.
Now that's a technique I have never seen in Military Modelling magazine :eek: I tried something similar once with a 1/35 Dragon 25lbr and a 40kg Chocolate Lab...... he ate it :oops:
 
real liking the look of the water bottle,love the shading on them,and the color of the food bags as well,


liking that color, ;)


these two items I always find it hard to get the color close or right with,may I ask,what did you use,? :rolleyes:
 
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\ said:
real liking the look of the water bottle,love the shading on them,and the color of the food bags as well,
liking that color, ;)


these two items I always find it hard to get the color close or right with,may I ask,what did you use,? :rolleyes:
Thanks for the nice comments Monica.


The water bottle and bread bags were base coated with Vallejo sand and light brown,50/50.


The water bottle was then coated with Burnt umber oil,this was wiped off and I then highlighted with yellow ochre oil for the shade I used pains grey oil.The straps were burnt umber oil.


The bread bags were then given a coat of yellow ochre oil with a touch of burnt umber oil,this was wiped off.I highlighted with Titanium white oil and shaded with burnt umber oil.


Hope this helps.


Ralph.
 
Thread owner
\ said:
Thanks for the nice comments Monica.
The water bottle and bread bags were base coated with Vallejo sand and light brown,50/50.


The water bottle was then coated with Burnt umber oil,this was wiped off and I then highlighted with yellow ochre oil for the shade I used pains grey oil.The straps were burnt umber oil.


The bread bags were then given a coat of yellow ochre oil with a touch of burnt umber oil,this was wiped off.I highlighted with Titanium white oil and shaded with burnt umber oil.


Hope this helps.


Ralph.
I don't want to digress from the thread Ralph but when you say "coated with burnt umber oil, which was wiped off" what is the state of the oil paint? Is it straight from the tube or is it thinned down? I know you said you let the oil soak out of the paint first but I have never got it into my head on the actual use of the medium and where you would use it thinned or natural.
 
Coming along very nicely ( can't wait to see west you gonna do with the trench system!!


The painting and weathering on the kit and accessories is really nice ( a true master in the field...................


Robert
 
\ said:
Thanks for the nice comments Monica.
The water bottle and bread bags were base coated with Vallejo sand and light brown,50/50.


The water bottle was then coated with Burnt umber oil,this was wiped off and I then highlighted with yellow ochre oil for the shade I used pains grey oil.The straps were burnt umber oil.


The bread bags were then given a coat of yellow ochre oil with a touch of burnt umber oil,this was wiped off.I highlighted with Titanium white oil and shaded with burnt umber oil.


Hope this helps.


Ralph.
great help Ralph,as the colors are spot on in my eyes,and will be noting this down,ta, :)
 
Thread owner
\ said:
Coming along very nicely ( can't wait to see west you gonna do with the trench system!!
The painting and weathering on the kit and accessories is really nice ( a true master in the field...................


Robert
Thanks Robert for the kind words.


I'll be making a load of sandbags to add to the trench,My wife is picking me up some Das clay today..
 
Hi Ralph I've just caught up on this and may I say what great work your doing,
 
Thread owner
\ said:
I don't want to digress from the thread Ralph but when you say "coated with burnt umber oil, which was wiped off" what is the state of the oil paint? Is it straight from the tube or is it thinned down? I know you said you let the oil soak out of the paint first but I have never got it into my head on the actual use of the medium and where you would use it thinned or natural.
No you are certainly not digressing from the thread Graham.


"coated with burnt umber oil, which was wiped off"


I simply use the colour straight from the tube after letting the oil soak out.


I coat the whole area with the paint, and with a large flat soft brush(3/4 inch)I start to wipe off the paint,after every wipe I wipe the brush on a clean cloth(old t shirt).I only do this 2/3 times.What this does is leave a stain of the oil with some of the base colour showing through on the highlights,Think of this as reverse drybrushing(taking paint off as opposed to adding).


For the highlights I tap very minute amounts of oil(straight from the tube) on to areas I feel need highlighting.


The same process is used for the shading.


I only slightly thin the oil when I need to do a very fine line.this is then usually tapped/blended as usual.


I hope this helps Graham,if not please feel free to ask more questions.
 
This is great ( we not only get builds if great figs from Ralph we also get his secrets) putting them into practice is another thing though.hahahahh:D:D
 
Thread owner
\ said:
This is great ( we not only get builds if great figs from Ralph we also get his secrets) putting them into practice is another thing though.hahahahh:D:D
Thanks Robert. :)


If people kept everything to themselves, people would not advance in their modelling.


I have learnt so much from other people and I am willing to give back as much as possible.


I at time's feel sorry for beginner's coming into this hobby,seeing all the great work out there,and their frustrations while learning new technique's.


Like anything in life only practice will get you where you want.
 
Thread owner
Thanks Ralph that does help explain it. I suppose a similar technique could be used to shade faces on 35mm figures. By using a light flesh colour as a base and then add a browny oil paint, do the 'Wax on Wax off' thing to get the shadows. Probably be as good as I could get in 1/35. I feel an experiment coming on :)
 
Thread owner
\ said:
No you are certainly not digressing from the thread Graham.
"coated with burnt umber oil, which was wiped off"


I simply use the colour straight from the tube after letting the oil soak out.


I coat the whole area with the paint, and with a large flat soft brush(3/4 inch)I start to wipe off the paint,after every wipe I wipe the brush on a clean cloth(old t shirt).I only do this 2/3 times.What this does is leave a stain of the oil with some of the base colour showing through on the highlights,Think of this as reverse drybrushing(taking paint off as opposed to adding).


For the highlights I tap very minute amounts of oil(straight from the tube) on to areas I feel need highlighting.


The same process is used for the shading.


I only slightly thin the oil when I need to do a very fine line.this is then usually tapped/blended as usual.


I hope this helps Graham,if not please feel free to ask more questions.
Brilliant! Works really well, and another reason for folks to get into using oil paints. This project is shaping up to be a bit special.
 
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