hachette nitro monster truck model

[dynamite25]

Sorry it took so long to reply but been on holiday the other week and last week been to busy with other things.

But heres the answers to your Questions.

1)It doesn't matter which way the plastic piston goes round on the damper rod as it is flat on both sides as it is the same as all other R/C cars.

2)35W is fine for the truck.

3)Hachette buys the trucks from Thunder Tiger in part form to make a partworks series like all the others do,and i think they have people build them that have never built one before as there is alot of useless gibberish in there.

If you need any more help just ask .

[Guest]

Sorry it took so long to reply but been on holiday the other week and last week been to busy with other things.If you need any more help just ask .

Hi Steven/Dynamite25

I'm sorry - I have only just now read your reply, over two months since you wrote it! I'm very embarrassed here - I had forgotten all about the post I sent way back in August. So *please* don't apologise for your very short delay in replying!

Thank you for your answers to my questions. I have just completed Part 58 of the NMT, which is where we're up to in Australia. I have my remote control equipment and refuelling kit, so not too long to go now til I can fire her up for the first time. :-)

A couple of questions, please:

The front wheels seem quite severely toed-inwards. Is this correct, or should I disassemble and adjust the front suspension, etc? Or is this even adjustable in the horizontal dimension? (I realise it is adjustable in height, and in the vertical angle of the wheels)

What fuel exactly does the NMT truck use? Where do you buy it?

When I attached the flywheel to the crankshaft, I slipped slightly with the multi-grips I was holding it with, thus slightly burring/crunching 3 of the teeth on the rim of the flywheel. I assume that won't matter, apart from trivially cosmetically, since (a) I assume the teeth are only for stopping the engine with my boot, etc, and (b) in the magazine issue, they have also slightly damaged a couple of teeth, if you look closely!

Finally - Some pics of the finished truck show it having a spoiler on the back and some don't. Is this Hachette kit missing the Thunder Tiger version's spoiler? And where can we buy spare parts from in future? From Thunder Tiger? I'm a bit worried about this, because surely spares are going to be essential, due to wear and tear, and breakage!

Thanks, and sorry again for my delay.

cheers,

Charles

[Guest]

I've got another problem' date=' this time it is with the insertion of the white nylon piston sleeve onto the suspension of the NMT. In the instructions, it says "Insert the nylon piston [sleeve'] on the damper rod, taking care to position it so that the __bevelled side of the piston__ is outermost on the damper rod"... Well, what does this mean? Outermost on the damper rod means facing AWAY from the axle/wheel (ie TOWARDS the oil reservoir), surely? If I roll the piston vertically on a table surface, it rolls to one side, proving one face of the piston is smaller in diameter than the other, so this must be what they mean by "bevelled side". In other words, I am assuming I should make sure the smaller diameter face of the piston faces towards the oil reservoir. Is this correct? I have no idea if/why this is important, but physics in NOT my strong suit!

The term "bevelled" is confusing to me, because it really usually means, surely, a bevelled _edge_, for instance a smoothed-down edge on a piece of glass, so the edge is not sharp. Still, I suppose here they simply mean the entire side is bevelled, resulting in a "tapered" disc.

the nylon piston sits at one end of the rod, between the two circlips. you want the sharp (run it against the grooves of your finger print), unbeveled edge to be facing the middle of the rod, with the soft edge facing the outside end of the rod.

[Guest]

The front wheels seem quite severely toed-inwards. Is this correct, or should I disassemble and adjust the front suspension, etc? Or is this even adjustable in the horizontal dimension? (I realise it is adjustable in height, and in the vertical angle of the wheels)What fuel exactly does the NMT truck use? Where do you buy it?

i'd buy some calipers and re-read the instructions pertaining to the construction of the front parts.

for fuel, check local model shops and get a reccomendation from them. you'll be wanting to keep running the same fuel in your car so find a place that can keep the same stuff on their shelves.

And where can we buy spare parts from in future? From Thunder Tiger? I'm a bit worried about this' date=' because surely spares are going to be essential, due to wear and tear, and breakage![/quote'] I've purchased a couple of half-finished kits for a fraction of the original cost from online auctions. that's provided me with a few spares for those issues.

[Guest]

Hi I just broke my rear wheel off my truck! :-( Is it possible to replease the rear plastic hubbs with something more reliable? I'm from south africa and our hobby shops are useless!!!

[Guest]

HI all. my 1st post in this thread but been readin closly. IM glad to see the thread is still going, now into march/april 07. MY situation is a bit embarrasing. iv got all the parts gathered, but still have not taken into building the truck up. i was wondering if steve has finnished building his yet? or are there any other people just about to start building their truck now? Well im about to start ina few days, so ill keep in touch and let ye kno the craic! bye for now

jam

[dynamite25]

I still haven't started mine yet either and I don't know when I will start it as I have other things that need finishing first before I can start on it and now I have another model boat to build,I still have loads to do on my model railway to get trains running again so it might be next year when the truck gets built.

[Guest]

I have completed the model, but I am having trouble starting it, can anyone provide any tips.

The glow plugs are working ok, but I may have turn the screws a few time on the engine.

[Guest]

Hi Chopper,

A good way to start is turn the needle valve all the way shut and then open it again to about 2 & a quarter to 2 & a half turns, this is generally a good starting setting that works with most engines. Prime a little fuel into the engine first and then try a start, You can do the necessary adjustments after. For a new engine you want to run it a little rich at first for the first few tanks and then after that you can turn the needle valve in a little so the engine runs comfortably without revving too high at idle speed.

Hope this helps.

Regards......Mark

(P.s...Hope you like my new signature pic...2 other cars done by me)

[Guest]

Thanks for the advice, one other thing that someone has said is the Glow Plug starter that comes in the kit is not any good, could this be stopping me from starting it?

Everything else on the truck seems to be ok, there is fuel and the piston and engine look ok.

[Guest]

Hi Chopper,

If you are not sure about the Glow Plug Starter, the easiest way to check it is to test it.

Make sure it is charged up fully, remove your glow plug from the engine and place the plug in the starter, look inside the glow plug whilst it is in the starter, you should be looking for a very bright orange glow, This glow can almost appear white sometimes, that is a very healthy glow and will start your engine no problem.

If you are still unsure about the starter, they are cheap enough to replace, I use a Pro-tech one which is rechargeable and comes with the charger. They only cost about £10.

The Glow Plug itself is another consideration, there are many different makes out there but I have found the most reliable and best ones to be OS or Enya Plugs. They may cost slightly more but they do seem to last longer and the performance on these speaks for itself.

Regards.......Mark.

[Guest]

can anyone help me please?

my boyfriend is collecting all the hachette nitro monster truck issues but he is missing some issues, any idea where i can get the ones for him that he is missing. (he got the ones he has got, off ebay)

thanks

[Guest]

Hey all, I've just started to build this kit (well, intended to start) for my brother.

Firstly - what greases and glues are recommended for this project? The hachette book doesn't really specify what you need.. and only mentions you need it when you're half way through a issue.

They have a picture of Loctite 406 for high strength, and Loctite 243 for thread lock. - I do have some loctite 401 laying around, would this be ok?

Can normal car grease be used in the diffs? or possibly sewing machine oil? Or can someone recommend a grease to purchase (i'm in Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia).

Because of the lack of those items there's not much I can do at the moment

With the dampers there is a o-ring that goes somewhere on the fake reservoir thing - where exactly does it go? the instructions are too vague for me :| , does it stretch outside the thread of the damper housing? or sit on the rubber cushion thing, or go inside against the white bevelled thing

Also, what issue do the servo's come in? or are they seperate with the controller (which I don't beleive I have)

-- As you may be able to tell I haven't attempted this type of thing before.

I have worked on real cars though, and do have a lot of trouble understanding some things.

[Guest]

Can anyone here who has built this complete kit write out a list of liquids I need to buy?

Glues,

Diff Greases

etc.

[Guest]

hi all im new at this cr game but i got the astra just like the nitro monster truck and there both *ucked but then i went out and got a mtx xt2 and that woz pritty fast and like a plum i am i crashed it and really killed it but im thinking of getting a thunder tiger mta-4 s50 or a savage xl so if any1 got any idears or as had 1 or the other would u let me no bout em thx