My name is BarryW and I am a....

[Gern]

(the trick to airbrushing aquas, by the way, is to take a new pot, give it a good stir, almost fill up with clean water then stir well again.....thin the whole pot from the start and just topping it off gives about the right ratio......forget where i read that)

I found - or rather Steve (Stona) did when I went to his place for some help and guidance with airbrushing - that the problem with Revell Aqua paints is that small flakes of dried paint keep blocking the airbrush. Like you suggest, I start to thin them as soon as I use them, but as you use the paint, you get a 'skin' of dried paint on the inside of the container. It's bits of this that break off into the paint when you stir it for subsequent use. I couldn't see any way of stopping that happening or filtering out the bits before putting the paint into the airbrush.

Gern

[Guest]

I found - or rather Steve (Stona) did when I went to his place for some help and guidance with airbrushing - that the problem with Revell Aqua paints is that small flakes of dried paint keep blocking the airbrush. Like you suggest, I start to thin them as soon as I use them, but as you use the paint, you get a 'skin' of dried paint on the inside of the container. It's bits of this that break off into the paint when you stir it for subsequent use. I couldn't see any way of stopping that happening or filtering out the bits before putting the paint into the airbrush.Gern

I used Revell acrylic paints for the first time recently (for my grandson's stealth fighter). The bottle (its more like a jar) gives a large surface area which is likely to cause drying even when the lid is on. Tamiya jars seem the worst in this respect. Xtracrylix are better but still need careful wiping before closing. As mentioned earlier, I prefer the small nozzles and tall/slim shape of Vallejo acrylics.