My questions - I did forewarn you!

[stona]

[quote name=wmar1967

' date=' post: 180294, member: 24273]Thank you.

For those that use enamels, another 5 questions!

1. What is the best/most comprehensive range you use? I've always used Humbrol and sometimes Revell

2. Where's the best shop to get all your modelling paints...using Amazon often turns out expensive in postage!

3. How do you stop the tins that aren't used so often from drying out/forming a rubbery layer on top

4. How do you know the consistency/mix ratio for enamel to thinners?

5. Do you use white spirits or thinners (for cleaning and thinning)?

I am really done now today - thank you all for taking the time to answer. You've likely all replied to these questions a thousand times before.

1 You've already got Humbrol. They have a good range and with the return of manufacturing to the UK the recent quality issues will hopefully improve. For specialist colours I use White Ensign Colourcoats. I can't praise these highly enough. They are the best paints of any type that I have used.

2 You can order Humbrol paints from the Humbrol web site or try other on line model shops that stock them, you might save a bob or two.

The Colourcoats I order directly from White Ensign.

https://www.whiteensignmodels.com/c/Colourcoats Paint/640/1/

3 Good housekeeping! You must clean the top of the tinlet and lid (if necessary) before putting the lid back on. Make sure you really push the lid on to make an airtight seal. I have some paints still useable after several years.

4 This is tricky and you will really need to experiment to find out what works for you and your set up. Different paints, even from the same manufacturer, also vary. Most enamels will fall in the range of 60/40 to 40/60 paint to thinners. That equates to about 50/50 on average. You will often see people suggesting the consistency of milk which is also a bit vague. Another tip is to drag some paint up the side of the cup with a cocktail stick or brush handle, it should run back but coat the cup.

There is I'm afraid no substitute for practice, however, in my experience enamels can be thinned a lot more approximately than acrylics. That is they will spray and work well in a larger window.

5 I use white spirits for thinning and cleaning. My current bottle is from Wicks (£3.75 for 2l which will last ages). I do use cellulose thinners from Halfords for deep cleaning but this is not suitable for all airbrushes.

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Thanks alot.@Stevekir - there certainly seems to be more cleaning required than with a brush!

.........

Yes, definitely. But not all airbrush users are as obsessive as I am. Start with a middling effort on cleaning and see how you go.

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

I mainly use Tamiya acrylics, if they don't do the exact colour I want I sometimes go off beat and buy the odd pot of another make, if I need it though I can mix it.

I thin the paints by eye, roughly to a milk consistency with 99% alcohol.

To clean my airbrush I use concentrated car windscreen wash. I make on average one model month and have so far this year stripped my brush once to clean with airbrush cleaner, tbh stripping it every time you use it seems over the top to me.

I only use Klear for canopies and brush it on, for the model body I use Humbrol Acrylic Gloss clear, apply my decals and cover again with the gloss, wait 24 hours and then use Tamiya Flat clear spray if a matt finish is required.

Don't try to copy someones way to spray, we all hold and use the airbrush differently so just practice, practice practice. By all means watch the videos on Utube to gain an idea but go with what works for you.

My last point,,,, have fun and if you like it that's all that matters !

Adrian

[Guest]

Thanks a lot people. Lots of great info here...really - thank you.

I think I'll stay with enamels and if I go to an airbrush, see how I go. I love working with enamels - I like how they apply and as I said, it invokes strong memories from my youth with my dad.

One last thing - and this might be a hot topic - why in god's name do model kit manufacturers not list Humbrol, Vallejo, Tamiya and Revell colours for people to make the right call with a model. I'm having a hell of a time picking colours for my recent model - a Hasegawa Arado Ar234B-2/N Nachtigall

Anyway - thanks a bunch.

[Guest]

Just seen that White Ensign do colours that make sense. I may be making more purchases from them...thank you

[Guest]

Billy there are conversion info sheets. Vallejo do their own with most manufacturers equivalents. Put model paint conversion into your search negine & it will come up with a good number.

Laurie

[Guest]

Thanks Laurie

[spanner570]

Billy, when you've cleaned your tinlet rim and lid, then pushed the lid down tight, up-end the tin for a few seconds.....This will seal any microscopic air holes!

For large areas I use a good sized, good quality, flat / chisel head brush....00 pointed for detailed work.

One last thing, never try and cover with one coat of enamels. Always thin your paint...2 or even three brush coats are better than 1.

I don't use specific ratios, I just add a bit of turps substitute and try the consistency out on some spare plastic....a plastic cup does nicely.....

Ron

[Guest]

Thank you. Good tip on the paint pot.

I never thin paint, however I sometimes do more than two coats

[spanner570]

Thank you. Good tip on the paint pot.I never thin paint, however I sometimes do more than two coats

Billy, just give thinning (not too much) a go on a test piece or the underside of a model, you'll be surprised how much easier it is to get a good, even surface. The lads on here who use brushes only, produce stuff that is on a par with a.b's.! So go for it!

Tin hats on everyone............Incoming!!

[Guest]

Obviously you have never seen any of my hand brush work Ron ! And further more you never will. Out of the question. A major disaster area matched by few events in the annuals of model making.

Laurie

[stona]

Tin hats on everyone............Incoming!!

Nope! I've seen what you and others can achieve brush painting. It can be done. It's one thing that enamels do have an edge over most acrylics in. Despite airbrushing most of my models I still paint details or figures with a hairy stick and can achieve a reasonable result.

Cheers

Steve

[flyjoe180]

All of my builds bar the Ju52 and Phantom (which is still not finished) are hand brushed. For me enamels are the way to go when brushing.

[Guest]

I rally do like enamels and I'm going to stay with them - at least for brushing. I'll have to see how it pans out if I move to airbrushing.

I think I need to take better care of the tins though so there is no air allowed in

[flyjoe180]

Make a habit of cleaning the lip and lid of your paint tins when you clean your brushes, or you get that build up of paint which prevents the lid sealing properly.