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[Guest]

well i dont think it would be cheating as such, i think the major problem would be the finishes, you have no idea what paints, primers of finieshes they have used and could look completely out of place on the kit.

just to let everyone know i have finished my kit, just need to do some more decales and its all done,will get some pics up during the week.

as you all know i have tried to follow the instructions as best as they will let me (changing some bits where they are wrong) i have decided to paint this by brush not spray as with matt colours the brush marks dont show (and iv ran our of air...(no compressor yet)) when i applied the decals it has left water marks on the paint, i have had to go over (as best i can) the paint again where the water marks have been) does this happen to anyone else???

i have not made a model aircraft in about 5 years so i cant remember if this problem occured regually!

[Guest]

Richard,

This is a common problem with applying decals to matt paint.

Firstly you paint the surface with a gloss finish. You then need to use a decal softening liquid such as Micro Sol when you put the decals on and then use the Micro Set solution after the decal has dried. Finally you use a flat matt over spray and the edges of the decal become invisible and the transfer looks like it has been painted on.

Have a look at the Microsol Thread in the Modelling Tutorials Section to se a discussion on the subject.

[wonwinglo]

'when i applied the decals it has left water marks on the paint, i have had to go over (as best i can) the paint again where the water marks have been) does this happen to anyone else???'

***Richard W,the way around this is to first give a thin coat of Johnsons to the matt paint,this sinks into the matt finish,as most paints are just too matt anyway this rectifies the problem of giving just the right camouflage sheen,next apply the decals over this and when dry seal again with Johnsons in the area of the decal,this way there will be no marks,I know it is probably too late now to do this but that is the technique,any attempt to apply Johnsons over the decals now will silver the edges so do not apply at this stage.

[Guest]

blimey i havent started mine yet been to busy with family probs and college im also doing my other spit the MK24 which i loved building.

[John]

Major problem, I had a bottle of glue which I knocked over spilt over a few parts, my cutting mat has almost melted, fortunately saved the main parts

[Guest]

ah what a shame john. it always a bugger when things like that happen!!!

earlier in this thread when we were talking about johnsons it says never to use ploy-cement on the cannopys (due to the fapour clouding them up i suppose)

when making a model i use the liquid cyment and the glue (as in the strange shapped one with a needle aplicator) i have always used this one to fix cannopys/windows on and it is solvent free, ie, no fapours....no clouding! just use it sparingly and its perfect, no pva or johnsons needed

although i still need to get myself some of this johnsons clear stuff (do they sell it in sainsbursy??)

[Guest]

ok guys, here she is, what tamiya say she sould ...kinda look like.

lol, bare in mind i have not made a plane in about 5 years or used matt paints! i missed out the "do not step" stickers on the inside of both wings as they just wouldnt go on right over the bumbs where they are ment to go.

anyway, comments, critisism, anything welcome!

[Guest]

hi

[Guest]

finished

ok guys, here she is, what tamiya say she sould ...kinda look like.

lol, bare in mind i have not made a plane in about 5 years or used matt paints! i missed out the "do not step" stickers on the inside of both wings as they just wouldnt go on right over the bumbs where they are ment to go.

anyway, comments, critisism, anything welcome!

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[John]

Looks good Richard, well done

[Guest]

Nice one RJ. I have the same problems with decals all the time.

[wonwinglo]

Richard W,what a splendid effort,your model really looks the part and conveys the lines of the Spitfire very well,congratulations on being the first to show a completed model.

You could have fooled me that you have not built a model for all of those years.

[Guest]

can i just point out this was all brush painted.

some one said (think it was you barry) that at the end of this it would be good to compare some brush painted ones and sprayed ones.

if only i had known about that finishing technique for matt paints and the decals you told me, can you put that up in the tips section please so i dont have to search through all this.

thanks

edit...

this tip, maybe it could be sifted out from the tutorial into a little tip in the tips section? just an idea....

This is a common problem with applying decals to matt paint.Firstly you paint the surface with a gloss finish. You then need to use a decal softening liquid such as Micro Sol when you put the decals on and then use the Micro Set solution after the decal has dried. Finally you use a flat matt over spray and the edges of the decal become invisible and the transfer looks like it has been painted on.

[wonwinglo]

Nothing wrong with brush painting when done properly,after all Rolls Royce hand painted cars for years,owning an airbrush will not guarantee a fine finish just like buying the finest watercolour paints will not guarantee a masterpiece,it is all about build one model,then after a further 100 models you start getting what you want,success in any medium only comes with lots of practise.

You just keep building on what experience that you have,I keep learning from people like yourself Richard W,keep at it,perfection is almost impossible,but improvement is certainly not.

[Guest]

Benchmark

I gotta say Richard it looks a really good mk1 and you now have set the benchmark for the rest of us! I only hope we can live up to the example you have setoster_ke