Andy's 1/35 Tamiya Stug B

[Guest]

I think that's my next move John. Having spent this evening looking for alternative glues for PE it seems PVA types can be good for metal to metal, if weaker overall. I now have 7 different types of CA and don't have much success with any of them, so it's got to be worth trying something else.

I may also try gluing in the house where it's warmer. Trying to hold the piece in the exact position for a minute or so while the CA glue sets isn't particularly easy, and if I let go any sooner or try and just place it, the PE would rather stay stuck to my tweezers! So I've been applying CA, swapping hands and moving it into position with tweezers, then separating it from my tweezers and holding it in place with a scalpel blade, all whilst trying not to move it a fraction of a millimetre. There's got to be a better way :smiling5:

[Guest]

I think that's my next move John. Having spent this evening looking for alternative glues for PE it seems PVA types can be good for metal to metal, if weaker overall. I now have 7 different types of CA and don't have much success with any of them, so it's got to be worth trying something else.

I may also try gluing in the house where it's warmer. Trying to hold the piece in the exact position for a minute or so while the CA glue sets isn't particularly easy, and if I let go any sooner or try and just place it, the PE would rather stay stuck to my tweezers! So I've been applying CA, swapping hands and moving it into position with tweezers, then separating it from my tweezers and holding it in place with a scalpel blade, all whilst trying not to move it a fraction of a millimetre. There's got to be a better way :smiling5:

Oh Andy as soon as I use the scalpel blade blade, the part that wouldn't glue suddenly stick to the blade or tweezers. Like you I have CA, ranging from slow to fast , thin to thick . Trying to hold one piece in place ,grabing the spray can of activator, spraying my self as the nozzles pointing the wrong way is not my idea of fun !
Don't know why Gator glue is the recommended type, I've used PVA glue for years apart from water proof and quick setting they are all much the same to me as long as they were D3 and to BS they were used .

[Guest]

Looks a very decent start Andy! Totally agree on the PE being a nightmare especially the truly minuscule parts. I personally use a magnifyer headset for the PE. Regards CA I use a pack of wooden toothpicks. I dab the smallest amount on to where PE is to go and use same toothpick to pick up and place the part.

[Guest]

John, I see I'm in good company with my glue juggling antics.
I've seen the Gator brand recommended but also krystal klear, which I have, so will try that.

Thanks James, the actual kit is going together lovely and would probably be a two day build without the extras.

I've used tooth picks before for ca but have been using 0.3mm wire lately.

[BattleshipBob]

Good start Andy, i have always had issues with PE! I now make sure the PE is cleaned and scratched on the back with a fibre class pen, i like you use thin wire to apply. I always admire the skills of PE users

[Guest]

I always admire the skills of PE users

Me too, perfectly square and not a drop of glue in sight. Makes me sick :tears-of-joy: :tongue-out2:

I can get a good bond once it's finally gone off, it's just getting there that's the problem. Might try again with some activator today. I know it sends the glue white and crusty but should be okay for these parts that are getting painted afterwards.

If it's a success the next job is cutting the grenades off the kit part and scratching the bottom bit that'll then be missing. Of course I've got no rod or tube of the right diameter as that would be too easy, lol. Time to search through old sprues...

[Guest]

Are these hand grenades? Then you can get a good number of them easily by buying a weapon set, like this old one from Tamiya:

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(That’s both sides of the box, it doesn’t have a definite front side as such.)

IIRC it has six grenades in it, and you could make two more from the “multihead” one by making a single head from some rod or sprue.

[Guest]

Yes, the stick grenades.

I've modified some now but that picture comes in handy for the colours, as the instructions just suggest red/brown. A few pictures suggest more of a wood colour with grey/green ends, and that confirms it, thanks.

[Guest]

Slept on this one and decided to have another crack at it, so I threw some more coal on the fire and got the shed nice and warm. Well, above 10°C anyway :smiling6: Removed the more wayward parts and cleaned off the old glue, then simply a blob of CA, placed the brackets, held for a few seconds, and Robert's your Fathers brother! So much easier with a bit of temperature on your side lol

Still not perfect but I'm happy given the size of the parts involved, and a lesson learned for next time. (please excuse the sanding dust)

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Chopped up the kit grenades that were moulded into a block, carving that excess plastic to make the "head" (don't know why I didn't think of that yesterday!) 0.2MM lead wire used for the dividers.

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And mocked up with some white primer on the interior and a bit of paint on the grenades & seat. Might move the middle one over to disguise the worst bracket.

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[Guest]

that picture comes in handy for the colours, as the instructions just suggest red/brown. A few pictures suggest more of a wood colour with grey/green ends, and that confirms it, thanks.

The real ones usually had a bare wood handle with a painted head and (for the M24 type, which your kit ones seem to want to be) a painted screw cap on the other end of the shaft too. Paint colour would be field grey or (from about 1943 on, off the top of my head) dark yellow.

As an aside, the screw cap is there because the grenade’s fuze is activated by a pull cord running through the shaft. The soldier would unscrew the cap, pull on the cord and throw the grenade. The M43 model put the fuze on the top instead, for ease of manufacturing, and so had a bare wood end to the shaft.

[scottie3158]

Andy,
Your off to a great start with the PE.

[Guest]

Thanks Paul. Bit of a false start yesterday but got back on track today :smiling3:

[Guest]

Looking good Andy.

[Steve Jones]

Nice save on the PE. Always looks better with a coat of paint on it. Looking forward to seeing how you weather the interior.

[Guest]

Thanks John & Steve. I'll probably find a picture of someone else's model I like and do my best to copy that :smiling5:

EDIT: Would these be red oxide under the interior white or straight to bare metal?