Andy's 1/35 Tamiya Stug B

[SimonT]

Hi Andy - The real springing is done by the torsion bars that run the full width of the hull - not provided by Tamiya - from those floor bumps that the arms fit into

Those springs are just a bit of a gimmick - why would you want two sets of adjustable wheels really for a static model?

Glue the suspension arms in position then remove the springs and saw off the spring mounts inside the hull - problem goes away

[Guest]

Build looking very good so far Andy! Keep up the great work fella! Exhaust looking the business! :thumb2:

[Si Benson]

Just having a catch up on the StuG fest and see this ones keeping you busy.
You seem to be talking it all in your stride though:thumb2:

[Guest]

Thanks guys.

Simon - I hadn't considered going that way. Nice thinking, thanks. I'd have to figure out the correct position for them to keep the tension right if I stick with the rubber bands, but that's probably easier than other alternatives.

[Guest]

I can with the hatches around the periscope open, which is the plan. I wouldn't have mentioned it otherwise.

Good point, I forgot about those. You could put figures in, they’ll obscure a lot But Simon’s suggestion is probably the better one.

I'd have to figure out the correct position for them to keep the tension right if I stick with the rubber bands, but that's probably easier than other alternatives.

Assuming the spring keeps it at the right level now, just glue the front and rear suspension arms in place with the spring attached, and remove it once the glue is dry. You can then add a drop of glue to the other suspension arms and line all six of them up with a ruler before it dries.

[Guest]

I decided to have a go at the PE mudguards today following a bit of advice from Mr Jones about not hacking the plastic until I knew I could make a replacement. Figured I'd be able to do all four today, but I've managed one :smiling5:

I've bought some new bending pliers but they are far too big for most of these pieces so it was back to the tweezers. This part eventually replaces a simple tab of plastic on the kit

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And the working piano hinge. I hadn't got a clue how to make this but figured something out and am really happy with the result. Voyager instructions gave no idea what to use for the pin but I found some steel wire in the kit that seemed the right diameter. No doubt later on I'll find it was for something else lol

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Then the instructions appeared to show these bits being glued together, so I did.

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However looking at another image it seems that one part fits underneath the plastic fender (in place of the flap) with the hinged section fitting on top, so I separated them and will figure it out once I've successfully made them all. There is a retaining hook to add to this but I'll leave that until later.

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[Guest]

Very nice work on the etched bits That hinge looks difficult, for sure.

[BattleshipBob]

Good work all round Andy, a bit late but i use black pigments for the exhaust, only a touch needed (thats what i told the judge!)

[Guest]

Thanks Jakko, I struggled with it. The others should be easier now that I've figured out a method, but I'm not sure if I'll be replacing all of the hatch hinges. Similar construction but obviously even smaller!

Bob, there is some black pigment right on the tips. Didn't want to go too mad since it isn't a dirty diesel :smiling5:

[Guest]

So running with Simons idea I set the suspension arms to roughly halfway through their travel by propping the body up on some coffee stirrers on a flat porcelain tile. Once all the arms were glued in place and set aside to dry for an hour I started chopping and boxing in the interior. I know it's pretty pointless as I'm not fully detailing the interior, but once I get something into my head it's hard to shake it.

Anyway, angle strip and card covered the areas where the arms came through. I tried to add a bit of texture to the more visible parts by warming up the card and squeezing it between some diamond serrated pliers but it's hard to see in the pictures.

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After a bit of filler and primer this is what it looks like with the top off

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And through the hatches. Maybe not authentic, but better than it was.

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Then basecoated it with a red oxide type colour that I made up from whatever Model Air colours I had. As always with Vallejo it was a total nightmare, spending more time stripping and cleaning the airbrush than actually spraying. I gave up in the end and just blasted it on in whatever fashion it decided to come out of the airbrush, hence the rubbish finish. I also did the undersides of the hatches that I haven't fitted yet.

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I also made a start on the gun. Undercoated in Mr Color Steel, a bit of hairspray, then an ivory kind of colour mixed in Vallejo. I tried to make the chipping quite heavy near where the gunner sat, less so elsewhere. Began applying some layers of colour to the seat and bag too. Needs much more work but I'm happy with how the chipping went

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[BattleshipBob]

Dirty diesels, how dare you!!!!!

Very nice progress Andy

[Guest]

Cheers Bob

I'm slowly plodding along with the etch too, just a few bits at a time then give my eyes a rest!

[Guest]

Andy, I take my hat off to you on the PE , that piano hinge is good.
As for the Vallejo paint, well I've had the same, but since I've used flow improver lowered the pressure and thinned the paint according to Vallejo all seems well ( wait until I spray again, bet it all goes **** up. )

[BattleshipBob]

Never has much problem with vallejo to be honest, very good shake and use there thinners

[Mickc1440]

Nice work Andy, just caught up with the build.