Primarily red oxide chips as all the interior was primed this colour before a base coat was added. Depending on how much wear and tear you want to do you could always show a bit of steel coming through in the most worn of areas. Remember we are talking about a crew of Germans wearing hob nail boots jumping in and out of the Stug all day. Looks like the HS could be coming out Andy?? LOL
Andy's 1/35 Tamiya Stug B
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As far as the initial primer goes the whole of the interior was red oxide. I would agree that Elfenbein would have been above the sponson as the base coat. However there are variations on the common themeComment
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Thanks Bob, I like your thinking!
I've put the gun together this morning
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That lovely metal barrel. The Voyager kit has a piece of PE to fit underneath here, it looks like a retaining strap, but it's so delicate that I'll leave it off for now rather than keep hunting around on the floor when I knock it off!
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And I couldn't do much about the inside of the sack so flooded it with a few coats of Mr Surfacer 500 which has helped disguise the pin marks and seam in there.
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OK, more questions lol
I'm a bit slow on the uptake but I've just realised that no matter how good a job I do of the interior, these ugly bits are going to stand out like a sore thumb.
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I've done a bit of Googling but most people just seem to leave them like that, which is all well and good but since I'm trying to go a bit extra on this it doesn't sit well with me.
Vertical ribs and holes will be filled with some strip and rod regardless. Easy option for the floor would be to box around the front springy bit and over the individual bits. Won't be realistic but I feel it'll look better than just leaving it as is.
My model, my rules and all that but I'd like to hear your opinions, or if you've seen any other options out there.
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Thanks Bob, I like your thinking!
I've put the gun together this morning
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That lovely metal barrel. The Voyager kit has a piece of PE to fit underneath here, it looks like a retaining strap, but it's so delicate that I'll leave it off for now rather than keep hunting around on the floor when I knock it off!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]n[/ATTACH]
And I couldn't do much about the inside of the sack so flooded it with a few coats of Mr Surfacer 500 which has helped disguise the pin marks and seam in there.
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Thanks for clearing that up Bob.
Cheers once again Steve. There is a partial non-slip floor but it fits around those area where the torsion bars come through, rather than over them. Looks like I should have gone for the Eduard option rather than Voyager, but even then, the springs are still visible. Will ponder over it some more.
And thanks for the picture. Colours are nothing like what Tamiya advise (everything white apart from the seat!), although I do understand that they won't all necessarily have been the same.Comment
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You probably won’t be able to see the springs with the hull top on, but the axles do look like they’ll be in plain sight, especially those directly underneath the hatchesComment
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I can with the hatches around the periscope open, which is the plan. I wouldn't have mentioned it otherwise.
Whilst pondering what to do with the interior I set about filling some holes. Some may never be seen but it's the thought that counts lol
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And set about the exhaust. It needs a matt coat to seal it all in and get rid of the shine, but I didn't fancy loading the airbrush up just for this.
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If you have Vallejo "Smoke" in your collection of paints Andy, water it down and give the black ends of the exhaust a Smoke wash to add to the effect.
Usual tip fees paid in a plain iwhite envelope in Scotties safety deposit box please :smiling2:Comment
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I'll be bankrupt by the end of the build at this rate :smiling5:
I only have smoke in proper paint :tongue-out3: but I like the sound of the idea so I'll have a go at making some up with black & matt mediumComment
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