DKM Scharnhorst 1943 - 1/350 Dragon Kit + extras

[bazers]

Thats a hell of a lot of parts best of luck will be watching.

[geegad]

dont sneeze you will lose half your ship

[Guest]

The guns look good. I like the use of the eraser as a soft base for rolling the handrails. I'll try it the next time I need a curved piece of PE

[Guest]

Finished the 28cm Triple Turrets, a combination of kit supplied PE and MK1 PE after market. The kit is short of 2 off Item A6, so I cobbled up something from my scrap box to fit onto one of the Turrets.


[ATTACH]120282.IPB[/ATTACH]



Will now concentrate on the superstructure, but first I want to assemble the Hull and Deck in order to check the superstructure fit as I go along.


The kit has the option of waterline or full hull, I will be doing the full hull; I understand the fit is pretty poor. Derek

[ATTACH]120283.IPB[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]120284.IPB[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]120285.IPB[/ATTACH]

[Guest]

Guns look really good

[Guest]

Very nice progress let us know how the hull fits


I built a uss Benson and that had a practice gun apparently it was used for honing speed of loading and discharging rather than firing watching with interest Derek


Roger

[Guest]

those look excellent, the detail is beautiful. Great work in the PE

[Guest]

Very nice progress let us know how the hull fits
I built a uss Benson and that had a practice gun apparently it was used for honing speed of loading and discharging rather than firing watching with interest Derek


Roger

Hi Roger, as you say used for crew training, I found a photo (see below) of one mounted on Bismark. I never heard of them before.


[ATTACH]120356.IPB[/ATTACH]



As to how the hull fit went, see my next posting below.


Derek

[Guest]

A few shots of the Hull assembly and Deck, first the components.


[ATTACH]120361.IPB[/ATTACH]



Supplied is a small triangular piece, see below, which is a good idea, as when you fit it to the lower bow section it acts as a guide to ensure both halves of the bow are aligned, it takes a bit of fiddling to get it right, but worth the effort. You need to glue it in position obviously.


If you are using the stand provided for the model, remember to drill the holes from the inside of the Hull, as access is not possible when the Hull halves are cemented together. This applies to the deck also as some holes have to be drilled from the underside before assembly.


[ATTACH]120359.IPB[/ATTACH]



Before fitting the hull halves together, I did a trial fit of the deck. In order to get a good fit I took a heavy duty craft knife and sliced both ends of all of the diaphragms on order to make the hull wall more flexible. I will leave off the deck until I have the Hull joint finished.


[ATTACH]120358.IPB[/ATTACH]



Here is the state of the Hull at the moment, to be honest it's not as bad as it looks, about 50% of the joint is perfect, there is two areas both sides where the upper half of the Hull is wider than the lower half. The area at the stern is peculiar in as much as the joints come together perfectly, but unfortunately the plastic turn inward at the joint leaving a valley. This is the first layer of filler, will leave overnight, I used Deluxe's 'Perfect Plastic Putty', applied with a syringe


[ATTACH]120357.IPB[/ATTACH]



Derek

[ATTACH]120360.IPB[/ATTACH]

[Guest]

Very nice me thinks you have done this before he he one of the reasons why I love modelling scale is doing research and learning things love your idea of the slits in hull spreaders to allow deck to fit right I have that locked into the old grey matter some models are a pleasure to watch being built this is one of them


Roger

[Guest]

First photo shows the Hull after sanding off the filler, a few areas still need addressing, however they are too shallow for the filler to work effectively.


[ATTACH]120508.IPB[/ATTACH]



For the finer filling I switch to Mr Surface 500, this is a thick primer which I use to fill the finer faults. The Mr Color Leveling Thinner is used to thin the Mr Surface (as it tends to thicken very quickly in a used bottle), also clean the brush, and clean off any Mr Surface that gets onto unwanted areas of fine detail.


[ATTACH]120511.IPB[/ATTACH]



I apply two fairly heavy coats to the full length seams with an old brush, and leave to dry overnight, I then sand off with an fine 240/320 Grit Sanding File. Several areas still requires attention, so lighter coats of Mr Surface were applied and sanded, this was repeated several times. The finish now looks good but you can never tell until a primer coat is applied.


[ATTACH]120509.IPB[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]120510.IPB[/ATTACH]



I don't want to prime it yet as I want to drill out the +350 portholes with a 0.7mm drill, which is my next job before fitting the deck. Cheers Derek

[geegad]

Those big guns look superb and great work on the hull..

[grumpa]

Just viewed thread so far and am amazed at the almost microscopic ME and plastic, and such clean work for such a tiny scale. 1/35 is too small in my opinion, will be watching though I am not a ship builder but I do want to see your progress.............Jim

[monica]

great work on the guns they all look very good,and the PE,just adds so much more detail to all,

[spanner570]

Just had a coffee and a nice time reading this from the start.


Great job Derek. Some really nice work going on, coupled with nice photos, step by step tips and explanations....


Top thread.


Ron