discussion Hot rod Iwatta airbrush

[Tim Marlow]

Never had an issue pulling paint back into the body myself. I just run a cup full of cleaner through the brush before I strip it down and that seems to take off the residue. I rarely use acrylics though, so perhaps this is more an issue with them.

 

[LeytonO]

Never had an issue pulling paint back into the body myself. I just run a cup full of cleaner through the brush before I strip it down and that seems to take off the residue. I rarely use acrylics though, so perhaps this is more an issue with them.

I try to avoid blowing anything through to the nozzle and cap.
Just clean the cup out with water and an old brush then empty it into a waste pot.
All the front bits then go into a small jar of cleaner before cleaning and rinsing them off in clean water.
The cup and needle passage are cleaned too with a small rubber brush and twisted up kitchen paper again using cleaner.
Backflushing is another big no for me, never mix paint using that method either.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Bit confused by this, but it’s probably me being a bit thick. Paint gets blown through to the nozzle and cap when you use the brush to paint things so how do you avoid it?
I use a similar regime for cleaning, but use MLT or lacquer thinner to clean parts after use. I shoot the remaining colour into a colour change pot, then shoot a cup of thinners through the brush to flush the majority before using a small pot of thinner, an old brush, kitchen towel, and a small set of pipe cleaners to clean the paint path when the brush is stripped down.
An advantage of side feed brushes is that removing both the cup and the blank on the other side (cup can be fitted either side) means the paint path is completely accessible for cleaning once the nozzle and needle has been removed.
Also I shoot a cup of thinner through the brush if I’m changing colour in the middle of a job. Only time I’ve ever had to use the back flow trick is if I’ve used acrylics and suffered from blocking and tip drying.

 

[LeytonO]

Bit confused by this, but it’s probably me being a bit thick. Paint gets blown through to the nozzle and cap when you use the brush to paint things so how do you avoid it?
I use a similar regime for cleaning, but use MLT or lacquer thinner to clean parts after use. I shoot the remaining colour into a colour change pot, then shoot a cup of thinners through the brush to flush the majority before using a small pot of thinner, an old brush, kitchen towel, and a small set of pipe cleaners to clean the paint path when the brush is stripped down.
An advantage of side feed brushes is that removing both the cup and the blank on the other side (cup can be fitted either side) means the paint path is completely accessible for cleaning once the nozzle and needle has been removed.
Also I shoot a cup of thinner through the brush if I’m changing colour in the middle of a job. Only time I’ve ever had to use the back flow trick is if I’ve used acrylics and suffered from blocking and tip drying.

Sorry, I didn't explain what I meant very well.
Bit wary of loosening crud up with the cleaner and then blowing that through into the nozzle.
The larger Eclipse nozzle can get muck stuck Insde it unlike the smaller screw in type.

 

[Tim Marlow]

I back flush the nozzle with a pipette full of thinner….blows any crud right back out…..not that I get much as MLT dissolves Tamiya paint crud quite happily.