discussion Experiments with laquer and the dreaded pong!

[BattleshipBob]

I only use laquer but of course the smell is horrible. So as I will eventually have a proper room inside the bungalow, i need to control the smell and a lot!

So I have switched to Mr Hobby Aquarius, not as smelly as Mr color. Using Mr Color's levelling thinner, but still smelly. Bought a bottle of the Aquarius thinner and the smell difference between both thinners is a lot. So the thinner is the main cause of the pong.

Final change ( for me ) was to now mix the paint inside the booth and also clean up, with the booth running. I also bought a external carbon / charcoal filter. Result, in my opinion a lot less smelly.

My favourite is Tamiya LP, but Aquarius thinner reacts badly with it. Found out by drops of paint on card and mixed in different thinner, saved blocking the airbrush!

Hope this helps some of us who like laquers.

 

[flyjoe180]

I always wear a respirator no matter the paint type, and do all my mixing, spraying and cleaning in the booth with an extractor hose placed well outside the window. Lacquers are smelly for sure, but so are enamels. I doubt that acrylics, despite smelling less vile, are any better for anyone when atomised. Good to know re the thinner types Bob, cheers.

 

[BattleshipBob]

I have finally found a helpful company who supplied the correct filters for my mask. Only one to ask for the data sheets for mr color etc. Amazed how unhelpful many were.

I didn't use a mask nor the booths extractor when trying Kaleido, only to see if there claim of no smell was true? It was.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Andy T would be the man to ask here Bob, it’s his living after all. Personally I think an A1P3 filter grade with organic capabilities would probably cut it for you. 3M make them. Their half face respirators are excellent.

 

[Andy T]

The short answer would be - I agree with Tim, an A1P3 would be perfectly adequate for airbrushing.


The (much) longer answer -

Filters come with several ratings ; A, B, E, K, & P.

The ones that interest us are A (organic solvents & vapours) and P (particulate)

These are further rated with a number; A1, A2, A3, with the level of protection increasing with the number. For airbrushing, concentrations should be low so A1 is more than adequate. If you were spraying a full sized car in your garage, maybe an A2 or A3 would be wise.

Similar for particulates (the solids in paint, sanding dust etc). P1 offers a minimum amount of protection but I personally use P3, as the solids can build up in your lungs over time, so the more protection the better. However, for the occasional use our hobby needs, a P1 or P2 should be enough, but there is generally very little price difference, or A rated filters are often "bundled" with the higher P rating anyway .

I use Moldex masks, which take separate vapour & particulate filters, so I can just use a P3 when sanding for example, but add the A rated filter when painting.


One important thing, often overlooked, is filter storage. They generally contain an active carbon element which will continue to scrub the air even if you aren't wearing it, shortening the lifespan. Always keep them in an air tight bag or container when not it use.

I said it was a long answer

 

[BattleshipBob]

Andy T would be the man to ask here Bob, it’s his living after all. Personally I think an A1P3 filter grade with organic capabilities would probably cut it for you. 3M make them. Their half face respirators are excellent.

Cheers Tim, off to nag him !

Bet he's hiding behind the settee! Have you tried the infamous NHS cheese sarnie ( rumoured to be old Dunlop tyres)

 

[BattleshipBob]

The short answer would be - I agree with Tim, an A1P3 would be perfectly adequate for airbrushing.


The (much) longer answer -

Filters come with several ratings ; A, B, E, K, & P.

The ones that interest us are A (organic solvents & vapours) and P (particulate)

These are further rated with a number; A1, A2, A3, with the level of protection increasing with the number. For airbrushing, concentrations should be low so A1 is more than adequate. If you were spraying a full sized car in your garage, maybe an A2 or A3 would be wise.

Similar for particulates (the solids in paint, sanding dust etc). P1 offers a minimum amount of protection but I personally use P3, as the solids can build up in your lungs over time, so the more protection the better. However, for the occasional use our hobby needs, a P1 or P2 should be enough, but there is generally very little price difference, or A rated filters are often "bundled" with the higher P rating anyway .

I use Moldex masks, which take separate vapour & particulate filters, so I can just use a P3 when sanding for example, but add the A rated filter when painting.


One important thing, often overlooked, is filter storage. They generally contain an active carbon element which will continue to scrub the air even if you aren't wearing it, shortening the lifespan. Always keep them in an air tight bag or container when not it use.

I said it was a long answer

You'll regret that great ramble lol

So the favour Andy. I messaged 3 companies asking what filters I needed to handle laquers. Using like you a Moldex mask?

One didn't reply, the other recommended a filter but no ? The last asked for data sheets for the paints, got back to me quickly so I bought two. Had no problems. Pics below



Could kindly let me know its ok, I am using one per side

Thanks bob

 

[Andy T]

Well, they are the same filters I use if that helps

If anything, slightly over specced with added protection from acids & ammonia, but the A1 rating is spot on.

I add additional P3 filters like these:

https://www.protectivemasksdirect.co.uk/moldex-p3-particulate-filters-pack-2-moldex-7000-9000-code-9030

They just spin on top of your current filters to pre- filter any particles. Maybe a bit OTT for hobby use but then I can be working around this stuff 8 hours a day.

 

[BattleshipBob]

Well, they are the same filters I use if that helps

If anything, slightly over specced with added protection from acids & ammonia, but the A1 rating is spot on.

I add additional P3 filters like these:

https://www.protectivemasksdirect.co.uk/moldex-p3-particulate-filters-pack-2-moldex-7000-9000-code-9030

They just spin on top of your current filters to pre- filter any particles. Maybe a bit OTT for hobby use but then I can be working around this stuff 8 hours a day.

Excellent many thanks for taking the time!

Least I know the guy knew his stuff. I keep the mask in a container like you suggested. Change filters every 6 months? I don’t spray every day. Sometimes few days in a week, sometimes not for two weeks?

 

[Andy T]

Technically, most should be replaced after 40 hours of use or 30 days after opening, but again, probably OTT for the concentration we work at when airbrushing so a few months of irregular use should be fine.

Always replace as soon as you are getting any smell through it, regardless of how much use it's had.

One thing I should add - these types of face mask are only rated for the clean shaven amongst us. If you have a beard, or even stubble, it won't seal correctly so the rating is out of the window.

I wear a goatee, so that the mask can seal around it

Again, I'm just giving advice based on the regulations in my trade. For occasional hobby use you could get away with being less strict.

And don't get me started on those following the current fad of 2k clears Far more toxic than anyone gives them credit for. I'm really surprised they get away with selling them to Joe Public without appropriate warnings. A future mass claim waiting to happen if you ask me...