discussion I THINK IT'S TIME ?

[MADTONY]

Right chaps,
you can see I'm a newbie but I think it's time I consider spraying .
I bought some expensive brushes and they are very good, but at 78 the old hands are not so steady.

Any advice on how to get started would be very much appreciated .

 

[Steven000]

Well I'm sure others can help more specific, but for now I would recommend looking at;
-A compressor which includes an airtank (I use one of the DIY store but one from a scalemodelshop will be much more quiet and smaller in size).
-Airbrush (0.3mm nozzle is a good allround size. Smaller ones like 0.2mm are for detailwork and larger ones like 0.5mm are better for varnish, priming very large models etc)
-Airbrush hose (connects the airbrush and compressor)
-Thinner (for the type of paint you'll use, paint needs the right amount to spray well)
-Cleaner (when you're done spraying the airbrush needs a good inside cleaning to avoid problems, I use IPA99% for acrylic paints)
-Spraybooth (I made one myself from a kitchen hood but you can buy a booth of the shelf, if you can - try to vent it outside with a hose)
-It's a whole new technique so practice on a sheet of paper or old model to get the hang of it.

Goodluck and have fun shopping

 

[MADTONY]

That's excellent Steve, just what I needed, thanks very much.

 

[LeytonO]

A compressor
I do have one with a tank, but recently sold my tankless Smart Jet Pro, no issues with pulsing and kept my original Sprint jet as a back up.
Sparmax do a good range, recently got their 610H as a present from my wife.
-Airbrush (0.3mm nozzle is a good allround size. Smaller ones like 0.2mm are for detailwork and larger ones like 0.5mm are better for varnish, priming very large models etc)
I would suggest one from the usual suspects such as Iwata or H&S, the HP-CS Eclipse 0.35 is a popular choice.
Easily cleaned with the large floating nozzle and spares widely available. Can also use the larger 0.5mm needle with the requisite extra parts.
-Airbrush hose (connects the airbrush and compressor)
I find the more flexible braided type to be be the best, not so keen on the thinner plastic type
-Thinner (for the type of paint you'll use, paint needs the right amount to spray well)
Its usual to use the thinner from the same brand as the paint you use, same goes with flow improver and retarder if required
-Cleaner
Depending on the acrylics used, water based (Vallejo, AK and Revell Aqua) or alcohol based Tamiya cleaner can differ.
I only use water based so Vallejo airbrush cleaner works well for me, low odour and non flammable
-Spraybooth
Depending what paint you use, the cheaper ones from Amazon are fine for acrylics, lacquer based need something more industrial.
A respirator is also recommended, not only for fumes, but also airborne particles

Some sort of stand to place the airbrush upon, cleaning materials such as Interdental brushes especially the all plastic ones.
Spray pot to contain the water/cleaner when flushing the airbrush through.
No doubt lots more that i have forgotten, i'll edit the list when I come across more.
Incidentally this is a good book to read when starting out
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Airbrushing-Scale-Modelers-Aaron-Skinner/dp/0890249571

 

[Jim R]

Can't add much to Steven's post. The airbrush should be gravity fed and have the paint cup on the top. Agree 0.3 needle/nozzle is the best all rounder.

 

[MADTONY]

Wow! You guys never cease to amaze me, lots of info for me to take in,
thanks everyone.
Tony.

 

[Andy T]

Excellent advice so far.

One piece of equipment I'd add is a cleaning pot. Similar to this, but widely available all over:

Airbrush Cleaning Pot

Solvent-proof glass pot with airbrush holder, prevents overspray and keeps workspace clean.

www.scalemodelshop.co.uk

You can blow out any traces of unused paint and your cleaning solutions, without spraying them around your room. The cleaning process can release more chemicals into the air than painting so it's a good idea to control that side of things. There are plenty of DIY alternatives but for the low price I think they are well worth the investment.

Also, as a beginner be prepared for lots of practice, and lots of cleaning! At first you can spend more time stripping and cleaning your airbrush than actually using the thing, until you get used to thinning ratios, spraying techniques etc.

The vast majority of airbrush issues are caused by cleaning, or lack of it, so it's all part of the learning curve.

And try to practice on a similar surface. Spraying on paper is okay at first, but being absorbent it can disguise some issues. Old plastic cartons with a smooth, non-absorbent surface will be more realistic.

 

[BattleshipBob]

Airbrush wise, i have been impressed with the Gaalhier one i have, not expensive. John has them and a good choice in the shop.

Don't forget, pots to mix paint, I use the cheap plastic shot glasses from B & M etc ( other shops available lol ) and pipettes with measurements on the side to transfer paint from jar to mixing glass

 

[Tim Marlow]

Can't add much to Steven's post. The airbrush should be gravity fed and have the paint cup on the top. Agree 0.3 needle/nozzle is the best all rounder.

Personally I’ve never used a top feed brush Jim. I prefer a side feed cup because it’s easier to see the workpiece and the cup can be swapped from side to side to get better access. All air brushes will work, but some will work better than others. It seems like we all use different combinations of pressures, mixes, paint type, airbrush, and compressed air sources, so basically the best advice is buy decent kit, learn how to strip and clean it, and just experiment. Eventually you will find what works for you, but don’t be surprised if it’s completely different to everyone else. It doesn’t make you wrong, just comfortable with your own ideas. It can be worth printing out (or buying) a few kids colouring pages and using them for practice.

 

[PaulTRose]

Also think about what paint you will be spraying.... Expect to experiment with that too

I will only spray Vallejo air or Mr aqua paint....... Never managed to get on with tamiya, not impressed with anything AK or Mig........ Used to like Revell aqua but Vallejo is better

If you have a big collection of one brand that is hard to spray expect to restock with one you can spray

Also don't try to save on thinner or cleaner..... False economy..... Use the proper stuff

 

[Jim R]

To be honest Tim I hadn't thought about a side feed airbrush. I was thinking more of those suction feed ones which have a lot bottle under the ab.

 

[LeytonO]

To be honest Tim I hadn't thought about a side feed airbrush. I was thinking more of those suction feed ones which have a lot bottle under the ab.

A lot of side cup models are also suction fed.
There is also a larger gravity style cup that you can buy for them..

 

[Tim Marlow]

My Iwatta is bottom feed in effect I think. The paint is drawn from the bottom of the paint cup. It is far easier to clean though because with the cup removed and the blank taken off the other side you can easily access the whole paint path in the body of the brush.

 

[LeytonO]

My Iwatta is bottom feed in effect I think. The paint is drawn from the bottom of the paint cup. It is far easier to clean though because with the cup removed and the blank taken off the other side you can easily access the whole paint path in the body of the brush.

I just sold one of those, it was an Iwata HP-SB.
Yes they are bottom feed unless the larger gravity cup is used.
Gravity Cup

For the OP, another good choice is one of the Mr Hobby/Procon Boy airbrushes.
Many parts are interchangeable with Iwata, check out their
Platinum PS-289 with a 0.3 needle