Brilliant work Andy
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That's a great finish Andy. Lovely work on the paint job. I didn't know that the BBC in Russia flew those :tongue-out3: :tongue-out3: :tongue-out3:
Andy,
apologies for missing the reveal of the finished model. I think that unless you had said '1/72', most people would have thought 1/48! It is a superb model, that you should be rightly proud of! Now, what you need is the same model, all buttoned up, and loaded for bear!
Dave :thumb2:
apologies for missing the reveal of the finished model. I think that unless you had said '1/72', most people would have thought 1/48! It is a superb model, that you should be rightly proud of! Now, what you need is the same model, all buttoned up, and loaded for bear!
Dave :thumb2:
G
Thanks guys, and Dave, that's a compliment indeed!
I've just ordered my first tank from SMS (another newer Zvezda kit) so we'll see how I fair with one of those.
I've just ordered my first tank from SMS (another newer Zvezda kit) so we'll see how I fair with one of those.
Andy...lots of praises and well deserved. Really good effort and nice finish. Honestly I haven't been present lately and will have to back track on your application of the cockpit clear parts. Did you mask before applying varnish? Not to take anything away from the finished build but just curious and will check on the wip post link.
Cheers,
Richard
Cheers,
Richard
G
Thanks Richard. The canopies were one thing I had issues with and need to try harder at next time.
I got a huge gluey finger mark on the largest section, which I couldn't seem to polish out effectively. The plastic is much softer than anything I've come across before so marked really easily and didn't respond to any of the polishing products I had. I've seen the dipping in floor polish trick but since they were already fixed that wasn't an option.
I thought about trying some gloss varnish over them but wasn't sure how they'd react so I've just turned a blind eye for now. Any suggestions welcome :smiling3:
I got a huge gluey finger mark on the largest section, which I couldn't seem to polish out effectively. The plastic is much softer than anything I've come across before so marked really easily and didn't respond to any of the polishing products I had. I've seen the dipping in floor polish trick but since they were already fixed that wasn't an option.
I thought about trying some gloss varnish over them but wasn't sure how they'd react so I've just turned a blind eye for now. Any suggestions welcome :smiling3:
G
Put it on a base, with a figure holding a cloth against the canopy as if cleaning it 
Hi Andy
Let it gas off for a couple of weeks and try polishing again. Just because it’s touch dry doesn’t mean the plastic is fully cured.......there may still be solvent adsorbed into the body of the plastic and softening the surface.
To polish canopies and car bodies I use very fine sanding sponges (down to 20000 grit) used wet and finished with Tamiya polishing compounds, but I’m sure you have access to professional kit that is as good or better....
Let it gas off for a couple of weeks and try polishing again. Just because it’s touch dry doesn’t mean the plastic is fully cured.......there may still be solvent adsorbed into the body of the plastic and softening the surface.
To polish canopies and car bodies I use very fine sanding sponges (down to 20000 grit) used wet and finished with Tamiya polishing compounds, but I’m sure you have access to professional kit that is as good or better....
G
Passed indeed Andy, congratulations, looks good and some nice photos to boot.
Nothing like sucess to boost the mojo .:thumb2::thumb2::thumb2::thumb2::thumb2:
Nothing like sucess to boost the mojo .:thumb2::thumb2::thumb2::thumb2::thumb2:
G
I hadn't thought about that Tim, thanks. It was masked up shortly after the glue incident and left that way for a few days, which probably didn't help.
Thanks John, pictures were taken outside in indirect bright sunlight, which seems to show the colours much better.
Thanks John, pictures were taken outside in indirect bright sunlight, which seems to show the colours much better.
Wow Scratchy,
The heck with the glue spot on the canopy, the finished product is absolutely fantastic and you should drink 3 or 4 beers Sir!!! It is hard to tell this is 1/72 and not 1/48 scale too. I, like Mick, didn't know the BBC used these loaded for bear whirlybirds in Russia either. I guess if you don't watch their channel, they fly by and shoot a few rockets into your apartment! Super work Andy!!!
Prost auf Dich
Allen
The heck with the glue spot on the canopy, the finished product is absolutely fantastic and you should drink 3 or 4 beers Sir!!! It is hard to tell this is 1/72 and not 1/48 scale too. I, like Mick, didn't know the BBC used these loaded for bear whirlybirds in Russia either. I guess if you don't watch their channel, they fly by and shoot a few rockets into your apartment! Super work Andy!!!
Prost auf Dich
Allen
G
Thanks Allen!
I'm sure you know how it is, I look at it and can only see the faults but I'm still really happy overall. It's good to know that those of you with a more balanced and experienced view like it too though.
I'm sure you know how it is, I look at it and can only see the faults but I'm still really happy overall. It's good to know that those of you with a more balanced and experienced view like it too though.
That is so true Andy. Sometimes we are our own worst enemies!!! Now I have to go and check up on your Lambo. I am so slow at catching up on all the great works here...……….
Hi Andy, I checked back on your post and saw why it happened. Actually quite a good recovery looking at the circumstances. I would do the same as Tim.
Here's a little tip on canopy Future dipping, After any wet sanding and polish I clean as much of the canopy with spirit or lighter fluid and Scotties tissues as they don't leave any fibres. I then dilute Future with water in a container deep enough to submerge the canopy fully holding just the frame with forceps. I let the future wick away and the excess teased from the end onto paper towels where I finally place it on the frame edge. Try not to touch any part of the canopy and not let the Future puddle. Any fine scratches will disappear if done well and Future will cure as fast as acrylics. All this is done before attaching the canopy to the cockpit.
Although I have never tried it some say that super glue will not craze a canopy that has been Futured.
No matter what happened it's still a great build and the camo looks terrific.
Cheers,
Richard
Here's a little tip on canopy Future dipping, After any wet sanding and polish I clean as much of the canopy with spirit or lighter fluid and Scotties tissues as they don't leave any fibres. I then dilute Future with water in a container deep enough to submerge the canopy fully holding just the frame with forceps. I let the future wick away and the excess teased from the end onto paper towels where I finally place it on the frame edge. Try not to touch any part of the canopy and not let the Future puddle. Any fine scratches will disappear if done well and Future will cure as fast as acrylics. All this is done before attaching the canopy to the cockpit.
Although I have never tried it some say that super glue will not craze a canopy that has been Futured.
No matter what happened it's still a great build and the camo looks terrific.
Cheers,
Richard
G
Thanks for the tips Richard. Would you paint the canopy frames before dipping, or will the future take primer/paint on top of it ok?
Up to that point the canopies had looked quite good, but trying to hold the 3D jigsaw of 5 pieces together whilst gluing some of them to each other and to the model, but leaving the doors unglued from anything proved to be a bit much :smiling5:
Next time I won't worry about the doors. As I was planning on displaying them open I guess it didn't matter that they lined up perfectly closed. Another lesson learned.
Up to that point the canopies had looked quite good, but trying to hold the 3D jigsaw of 5 pieces together whilst gluing some of them to each other and to the model, but leaving the doors unglued from anything proved to be a bit much :smiling5:
Next time I won't worry about the doors. As I was planning on displaying them open I guess it didn't matter that they lined up perfectly closed. Another lesson learned.
Hi Andy, no I usually paint after dipping. Masking tape sticks better even. One way not to handle canopies is to use blu tac on the tip of a tooth pick. The acrylic Future acts as a protective layer so residue from Blu Tac won't attack the clear part for short periods.
Most opened canopies are a result of bad fit in cases I encounter with fellow modelers :smiling2:
Cheers,
Richard
G
Cheers Richard, thanks again.
Just caught up with this Andy. Helicopters aren't my thing but that's an amazing build such great detail one to be really proud of.
G
Thanks Vaughan, I really appreciate that.
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