discussion port hole glass

[boatman]

HI all can anyone tell me what stuff I can use to fill up my port holes as to look like glass on my tiger as I have about 200 to do I thinkin of usein resin but it might go coluered when I mix in the red hardner an I was thinkin about the stuff richard used for his river an bridge dio would that be any good ? an if it is whats the stuff called an where can I get some ? can anyone help ?
chris

 

[Guest]

Hi Chris, replied to your PM.

As I mention in that, I've used Micro Krystal Klear to make a couple of small windows and it worked pretty well. There are probably other similar products out there but it's the only one I've tried myself.

The two windows in the side door here are made with it after I lost the kit ones.

View attachment 364086

 

[AlanG]

I was just going to say to use Micro Krystal Klear

 

[Dave Ward]

I've recently tried this..................
John has it in stock at SMS - it works very well and also bonds with clear plastic ( for canopies ) YouTube video on it's use

Dave

 

[boatman]

MANY THANKS GUYS for all your help
chris

 

[Guest]

Humbrol KlearFix will probably work too. Or superglue if the porthole isn’t too big — I’ve successfully had it bridge gaps of about a millimetre across — see here for an example.

 

[boatman]

Humbrol KlearFix will probably work too. Or superglue if the porthole isn’t too big — I’ve successfully had it bridge gaps of about a millimetre across — see here for an example.

HI Jakko the port holes are about 5 mm across the hole an about 7mm overall diameter so a lot bigger than 1mm but many thanks for your reply
chris

 

[SimonT]

Hi Chris,
Weren’t you planning to float this monster ship?
I seem to remember Krystal Klear being a type of PVA white glue that does not like getting damp as it goes opaque

Don’t know about the other suggested products

may be best off with something waterproof like clear bathroom silicone

 

[boatman]

Hi Chris,
Weren’t you planning to float this monster ship?
I seem to remember Krystal Klear being a type of PVA white glue that does not like getting damp as it goes opaque

Don’t know about the other suggested products

may be best off with something waterproof like clear bathroom silicone

HI Simon yes she is goin on the wet stuff as it would be a bit pointless not to what with all the motors an R/C fitted in her LOL but if it is like that then i'll try something eles as I have over two hundred port holes to fit so i'll do some exsperimentin an andy is havin a go on that for me so see what turns up as im askin all you guys this now as i will soon be at the stage of fittin the port holes in her so you suggest waterproof clear bathroom silicone well im goin past Jewson tomorrow when I take the missus to work i'll call in an ask them about it many thanks Simon cheers
chris

 

[boatman]

HI again guys if the ideas which have been suggested don't work out then then i'll have to go with the resin idea but all ive seen on the hardners is the red stuff can anybody tell me if they do a clear hardner for resin ? im graspin at straws nows
chris

 

[Neil Merryweather]

How about clear epoxy?
If you covered the outside of the hole with something really shiny like sellotape and poured from the inside? But I am sure you would have thought of that

 

[boatman]

How about clear epoxy?
If you covered the outside of the hole with something really shiny like sellotape and poured from the inside? But I am sure you would have thought of that

HI Neil yes I have thought of that but thank you for the idea an tryin but the reason it wont work as the port holes have high rivet heads on the out side an tape just wont take to form a seal so the only idea that I can think of that has a chance of workin is stick a clear bit of selotape on the back of the port hole an makin sure it wont let the resin leak then I must cover over the outer side of the P/H with low tack maskin tape with the P/H HOLE size in it so as I pour the resin into the P/H it wont go on it an deface the P/H an when resin is set hard I'll remove the tape from both sides SORRY for the long winded exsoplnation but many thanks to you guys for your help but again will see what works as my idea may have a flaw aaaaaaaarrrrr LOL
chris

 

[Guest]

Chris.
Long shot, but clear perspex glued to the back with a modern sealant ?, but not silicone as it degrades .There are specific sealants and glues for perspex

 

[boatman]

Chris.
Long shot, but clear perspex glued to the back with a modern sealant ?, but not silicone as it degrades .There are specific sealants and glues for perspex

HI John cheers for that idea but these port holes are only about 7mm across an the hole in the centre is only about 5mm an with my shaky hands as the harder I try to stop shakin the worst I get it only happens when im stressed badly an I will be when im doin these port holes as I cant afford to get it wrong an there are about two hundred to do an i'll crack up but no way could I cut perpex that small an make it water tight but many thanks for your input its much appreciated John
chris

 

[Guest]

Maybe this is an option? This site sells clear acrylic discs of pretty much any diameter and thickness you want — I just tried 200 × 5 mm diameter of 2 mm thick clear acrylic, and it comes out at £40. Changing it to 5 mm doesn’t change the cost, so it looks like you can just select the thickness of the model’s hull to make fitting easier.

 

[boatman]

Cheers for the info Jakko I bear it in mind :thumb2:
chris

 

[Ian M]

You can get crystal clear acrylic resin. Maybe you could cast them in a simple form and then 'glue' them in with some more resin.
Failing that a sheet of 1 mm clear plastic and a hole punch!
Good luck

 

[spanner570]

Chris. I would just silicone some clear plastic strips from food container lids etc. onto the inside of the hull.

....but being bone idle I'm always after the easiest and cheapest (and possibly the best) option... :thumb2: