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Scale Model Shop

Dealing with the hull seams, a question?

BattleshipBob

BattleshipBob

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The not so mighty Nelson has like many ship kits a hull in 2 pieces, now the nagging bit.

Do you ship chaps just sand the seam or apply a layer of filler first??

Ta in advance, Bob
 
Bobthestug said:
The not so mighty Nelson has like many ship kits a hull in 2 pieces, now the nagging bit.

Do you ship chaps just sand the seam or apply a layer of filler first??

Ta in advance, Bob
Click to expand...
Well Bob if there is a gap then applay filler an when hard sand it smooth hows that as its like any gap but if its a tight seem with a ridge then just sand down with fine sand paper
chris
 
Thread owner
No gaps, filled nicely with glue, never had to get rid of seams on a StuG!
 
Bobthestug said:
No gaps, filled nicely with glue, never had to get rid of seams on a StuG!
Click to expand...
WELL Bob this is not a stug remember its a floaty thing not a thing on tracks an im enjoying watchin you build this as i have to keep pinchin myself to make sure im not dreaming of the stug king building a ship
 
Personally I set fire to it ! :smiling3::nerd:
Just have been fabricated by a ex StuG workforce !
 
John Race said:
It's ok Chris, the new medication is working well, I only have the odd urge to set fire to things since Matron increased the dose .
Click to expand...
WELL MR J/R OF RACE TOWERS THE ODD URGE IS MORE THAN ENOUGH LOL we have to keep an eye on him
 
If the fit is ok I just use thicker glue and go for a moderat squeeze out and once that has hardened scrape it carefully with a sharp blade.
Gappy seams get the same followed by filler. Really bad gaps get filled with sprue sanded to fit. All smoothed to shape once hard.
I find setting it ablaze distorts the shape to much.
 
(Ian Quote)
I find setting it ablaze distorts the shape to much.
:rolling: ;):smiling5::smiling5::smiling5::smiling5:

:thinking:Ian you try telling that to mr J/R even though matron has increased his new medication an is working well,( keep the matches away from him guys LOL )
:rolling:;):smiling2::smiling2:
AN i dont think MR NELSON would be very pleased either watching his hard earnt floaty thing goin up in flames :rolling:;):crying::crying: :smiling2::smiling2:

:thinking:Really J/R you must controll your impulses or it will be MORE of MATRON to see you :rolling::smiling5::smiling5:
 
Bob, just attend to the bow and stern bits that will be seen. Leave the underside just glued together. No one is going to tip the thing upside down......

You will have more than enough to cope with later in the build, that's even before you get to all that luuurvely rigging. :tongue-out3:

Arfa Jobb II
 
Thread owner
spanner570 said:
Bob, just attend to the bow and stern bits that will be seen. Leave the underside just glued together. No one is going to tip the thing upside down......

You will have more than enough to cope with later in the build, that's even before you get to all that luuurvely rigging. :tongue-out3:

Arfa Jobb II
Click to expand...
Rigging on no !!! Have heard that you can use a marker pen on a seam and you sand it away, seam gone?

Might have a go Ron just for practice but yes more fun ahead lol
 
Treat it like a fuselage seam on an aircraft and you won’t go far wrong Bob. Ian and Ron’s advice is sound!
 
I find that edge preparation before touching the cement, such as scraping with a knife, even removing location pegs to ensure correct alignment go a long way to reducing gaps & the need for filler. In bad cases, sanding the surfaces on a big sheet of wet & dry can work wonders. If I do use filler, I use Perfect Plastic Putty thinned with water and applied with a brush, cloth, or finger! I only use sufficient to deal with a problem the more you slap on, the longer it takes to sand off. Masking can counter overspill.
Dave
 
Ian M said:
If the fit is ok I just use thicker glue and go for a moderat squeeze out and once that has hardened scrape it carefully with a sharp blade.
Gappy seams get the same followed by filler. Really bad gaps get filled with sprue sanded to fit. All smoothed to shape once hard.
I find setting it ablaze distorts the shape to much.
Click to expand...

Just as I have with my Bristol Freighter Ian. After tacking with Mr Cement S squeezing with finger & thumb to tighten the joint. Then drenched seam with Tamiya Thin Cement which soften twice that of S.

If the joint is worse Tamiya Cement which softens more but takes longer to cure.

After the above no need to worry about the filler being used as glue.

Best fillers I have found as they cure quickly, roughly same softness/hardness as most plastics. They also sand to a feather edge with out breaking away.
Mr White putty wider fill. Mr White Putty R (smoother) smaller gaps (& where My White has not completely filled. To finish Mr Surfacer 500 (may need more than one application).

Laurie

I find setting it ablaze distorts the shape to much. Mmm :hungry: but sorts the problem quickly & heals the mind
 
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