discussion What exactly IS this?

[The Smythe Meister]

A'noon chaps,
Yesterday I asked Rach to pick me up some rattle can Gloss varnish from our LHS.
She came home with this....

I've looked on line but can really find out much about it at all
So the question is......
What is it, what's it for,and,how do you use it?....(OK, that's 3 questions!! )
Any info much appreciated
Andy

 

[AlanG]

Isn't that Tamiya?

 

[KarlW]

Tamiyas Clear in a spray can.
Probably same as this stuff.
Which is gloss.

 

[The Smythe Meister]

Isn't that Tamiya?

Tamiyas Clear in a spray can.
Probably same as this stuff.
Which is gloss.

Hi chaps,yes it is Tamiya.
Can I use it just like varnish on my Mossie in preparation for the decals/stencils?

 

[Guest]

Hello Andy.
Just put Tamiya TS-13 into the search bar and came up with this:-
Quote - "
Tamiya TS spray paint is a synthetic lacquer that cures in a short period of time. The spray paint is extremely useful for painting large model surfaces. Tamiya spray paints are not affected by acrylic or enamel paints. Therefore, following the painting of the entire assembly, details can be added or picked out using enamel and/or acrylic paints.
Each can contains 100ml of paint, which is enough to fully cover 2 or 3, 1/24 scale sized car model bodies.
TS13 Clear is useful to clear coat metallic paint finishes for a smoother final finish.
Allow the paint to be clear-coated to fully cure before applying TS13. This will prevent the clear coat from cracking due to different cure rates from the paint underneath. For best results allow up to one week.
Make sure to test clear coating over decals before applying to a finished project. Applying clear coat can harm decals.
NOTE: TAMIYA TS paint is not designed to be used with clear Polycarbonate/LEXAN R/C body shells. The paint will flake off. For Polycarbonate applications please use Tamiya PS spray paint."
this is on the Modelsport website.
Hope this helps
Mike.

 

[KarlW]

Hi chaps,yes it is Tamiya.
Can I use it just like varnish on my Mossie in preparation for the decals/stencils?

Yes you can.

 

[The Smythe Meister]

Why couldn't I find that?!!!
Thanks very much Mike,most helpful..... Looks like it's a no no for Decal basing then

 

[KarlW]

Why couldn't I find that?!!!
Thanks very much Mike,most helpful..... Looks like it's a no no for Decal basing then :sad:

Its fine under decals, the solvent "can" affect decal as it's applied though.

 

[The Smythe Meister]

Yes you can.

Oh,right, that's good news then
I guess the bit in Mike's ref means it'll do decals harm if you spray it on AFTERWARDS then
Thanks guys.....

 

[Dave Ward]

To be really certain you could always do a bit of an experiment with spare decals & a gash model!
Dave

 

[The Smythe Meister]

To be really certain you could always do a bit of an experiment with spare decals & a gash model!
Dave

Cheers Dave,
I shall do just that

 

[Tim Marlow]

The Tamiya TS spray paint range airbrush beautifully if you want a bit more control. You will need to decant the spray paint to a clean jar first though.

It’s easy to decant, but can be just a little messy. Shake the can well, then blue tack a drinking straw to the nozzle, making sure to use plenty of blue tack so it seals all around the edges. Then just depress the nozzle and direct the spay stream into the bottle. Let the bottle stand for an hour or two with the cap loose so the propellant gas can escape, and then do up the top. Once you have some in the jar you can use it like any other lacquer, diluting and cleaning up with Mr Color levelling thinner or such like.
You will probably get a few small leaks and dribbles when you decant the paint, so this isn’t a job for the dining room table. Well worth it to get good control during application though. I’ve done this several times with both primers and finishing coats from the Tamiya spray can range. The metallics come out really well on car and bike kits, for example

 

[Guest]

The Tamiya TS spray paint range airbrush beautifully if you want a bit more control. You will need to decant the spray paint to a clean jar first though.

It’s easy to de can’t, but can be just a little messy. Shake the can well, then blue tack a drinking straw to the nozzle, making sure to use plenty of blue tack so it seals all around the edges. Then just depress the nozzle and direct the spay stream into the bottle. Let the bottle stand for an hour or two with the cap loose so the propellant gas can escape, and then do up the top. Once you have some in the jar you can use it like any other lacquer, diluting and cleaning up with Mr Color levelling thinner or such like.
You will probably get a few small leaks and dribbles when you decant the paint, so this isn’t a job for the dining room table. Well worth it to get good control during application though. I’ve done this several times with both primers and finishing coats from the Tamiya spray can range. The metallics come out really well on car and bike kits, for example

Good thinking Tim to mention not to do it on the dinning room table, think Andy would be long gone if he should risk such a move.:smiling3::thumb2:

 

[stillp]

The blu-tak is a good idea too. Beats holding the straw on with one hand while pressing the button with the other.
Pete

 

[stillp]

NOTE: TAMIYA TS paint is not designed to be used with clear Polycarbonate/LEXAN R/C body shells. The paint will flake off. For Polycarbonate applications please use Tamiya PS spray paint."

Has anyone tried the Tamiya PS sprays on a polystyrene kit?
Pete

 

[Tim Marlow]

The blu-tak is a good idea too. Beats holding the straw on with one hand while pressing the button with the other.
Pete

I think I’d put kits together with blue tack if I could get away with it Pete….I seem to use it for everything else

 

[Mr Bowcat]

I've gone from using straws to using heat shrink for decanting spray paints. Once shrunk on to the can nozzle it tends to stay put.

Use a hot air gun, not a lighter to shrink it round the can nozzle though, safety first.

 

[Tim Marlow]

I've gone from using straws to using heat shrink for decanting spray paints. Once shrunk on to the can nozzle it tends to stay put.

Use a hot air gun, not a lighter to shrink it round the can nozzle though, safety first.

You could always pull the nozzle off and do that away from the can Bob…..

 

[Mr Bowcat]

Have done in the past Tim, then made a mess putting the nozzle back on. Find it easier to do with the nozzle in situ.

Forgot to add, the heat shrink can stay in place, it will fold under when the lid is put back on the can.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Have done in the past Tim, then made a mess putting the nozzle back on. Find it easier to do with the nozzle in situ.

Forgot to add, the heat shrink can stay in place, it will fold under when the lid is put back on the can.

Been thinking about this…….how do you actually put the shrink wrap on? The only way I can think is by putting it over the top of the nozzle, but that blocks the outlet surely?