discussion Academy 1/72 F86 Sabre - my third build so far

[Guest]

Hello all,

This is my third build since starting modelling again. It's my first ever jet - even as a kid I always preferred WWI and WWII propeller-driven aircraft. There's something about the Korean war jets though.

Anyway, as you can see I've made a start on the cockpit - my first attempt at seatbelts. Fiddly barely begins to describe it. Finish looks OK to the naked eye, but really rough in a blown-up photo. I hope to get the fuselage together tonight - the fit seems OK so far. The decals might be tricky.

I'm limited to mainly brush painting, but can use a rattle can, so I've got a tin of metallic silver for this one.

All comments welcome, and I am sure to be asking your advice.

Tony

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[Guest]

nice start to the build mate real nice

mobear

 

[Guest]

Thanks. I raided my wife's art box, and found some Crayola Metallic felt tip pens. They're perfect for colouring in dials and buttons, and the silver could be an option for paint scratch effects. You can see a couple of dials I've tried in green, I complained that she didn't have a red pen in the set. She didn't reply.

 

[yak face]

Great looking cockpit tony, i reckon this is going to look great. Which aerosol have you got? cheers tony

 

[Guest]

Thanks. I took the advice of other forum members and got a metallic silver one from Wilkinsons. I already have a Halfords grey primer. I know rattle cans are far from the cheapest option, but I figure I'll only use one for metal finishes and a big can will do several models.

 

[yak face]

Ive used aerosols quite a bit , and found that they can do quite a few models so the price isnt that bad. Its a good idea to put a coat of clear varnish on after the aerosol silver otherwise it can rub off on your fingers while handling and spoil the finish, i usually spray the silver , then a coat of clear gloss , then apply the decals then a final clear coat. The halfords clear acrylic gloss or hycote acrylic clear is great for this. cheers tony

 

[Guest]

Thanks for that Tony.

My plans to glue the fuselage tonight have been scuppered - I don't have 10g weights for the nose. Do most people use fishing weights? Why is there no 24hr fishing tackle shop around when you need one?

 

[colin m]

Nice start Tony,

I've done a few Academy kits and have always been quite pleased with the kits. I don't think You'll have any problems with this.

 

[Swagman 070]

Thanks for that Tony.My plans to glue the fuselage tonight have been scuppered - I don't have 10g weights for the nose. Do most people use fishing weights? Why is there no 24hr fishing tackle shop around when you need one?

Hi Tony great start, nice detailing on the cockpit.

As for the weight issue after learning the hard way not putting any weight in the nose. I have used an old AAA battery held in place with blue tack (where there was room in the model). For smaller nose cones I used some modeling clay shaping it to fit the nose cone. Tried blue tack but not heavy enough.

Swagman (Steve)

 

[Guest]

Office looks great Tony.

 

[Guest]

Well, things were going quite well until I had my first attempt at spraying paint from a can. The finish is quite "orange-peely" in places. What did I do wrong? Too close, too far, too much or too little paint? Should I rub down and re-coat?

My spray booth is a large cardboard box in my garage. The plane had a Halfords grey primer coat and the paint was Wilkos Silver metallic

Thanks

TonyView attachment 42753View attachment 42754

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[Guest]

i would guess that it is far too much paint, the reason i say this is that i have a can of the exact same paint and comes out of the can like a hose pipe. i painted a zeppelin with it and got the same result that you just got.

 

[Guest]

Too much and too close bro,Looks like you'll be nicking SWMBO's nal polish remover like me silver is a real bitch.

Good luck

Martin

 

[Guest]

Is nail polish remover the easiest and cheapest/most readily available stuff to strip it off?

 

[michaelm]

Hi Tony, tough luck with your paint job, for sure too close and too heavy coat.

Its also important to keep the can on the move, start spraying off to one side move the can all the way across and off the model then stop, repeat. Don't be tempted to just give an extra 'skoosh' up closer on a hard to reach spot, wait for the paint to set and give another light coat.

Its going to look great. Cheers M

 

[Guest]

Thanks Michael,

I'm putting this all down to experience, although it's disappointing to see it go ti#s up so near completion. This is why I'm doing 1/72 models which don't cost much. Strip and try again. Nail varnish remover didn't work, so I think I'll try Fairy Power Spray, which features quite a bit on Youtube

Tony

 

[Guest]

I got hold of some Fairy Power Spray, and it worked a treat as a paint stripper. The acrylic paint lifted away ridiculously easily, but the silver paint was a bit more tenacious. After a couple of hours of soaking and a scrub with a non-stick scourer it's gone.

I've washed the model, so now I suppose I need to leave it to dry before prepare it for primer. I also need to stick the stabilizer back on that I broke off in the cleaning.

 

[michaelm]

Well done for sticking with it Tony, there's quite a learning curve when you get into this. Metallics can be tricky as they are pretty unforgiving but I'm sure this will turn out great.