discussion Advice needed re: window frames

[Johnners]

I'm making my first ever building and would appreciate some advice with regards to window frames. I've made the walls from 2mm thick Benecreat Foam board, which has worked quite well, however, when I tried to cut out a window frame (of the standard white double glazing variety), I found the foam board flexed too much as I was cutting and I struggled to get straight edges. I'm wondering if 0.5mm ABS Styrene sheet would be more rigid, or would I be better using 1mm/2mm/3mm styrene strips and building the frames rather than cutting them out. I'm working in 1/50 scale and would be very grateful for any thoughts and/or other suggestions.

 

[pjgtech]

Could try thin balsa strips? or plasticard?

 

[kacitgirl]

Could try thin balsa strips? or plasticard?

plasticard would be my bet

 

[Tim Marlow]

40 thou (1mm) plastic card would be my go to as well. Door and window frames could be easy to make from plastic strip rather than sheet as well though. If you do go that way, evergreen precut strip is light years better than slaters, it’s square edged for a start…. Glazing bars are a bit harder. You can get them as etched metal from several suppliers, but size is always an issue. I’ve made them from strip before myself. I used to draw out the window on paper, then place a piece of picture frame glass over the drawing and build the window on the glass. That way the window can be carefully removed afterwards and put into the building. Building the window straight on the paper doesn’t work, for obvious reasons….but I did have to learn the hard way.

 

[Johnners]

Thank you guys. I favour cutting the frames out of sheet but, as you will see from my trial effort, the foam board flexed too much as I was cutting. Is the Plasticard rigid enough for me to get straight edges? Also, given the scale I am working with I was thinking of 0.5mm sheets, but I assume that will be harder to cut accurately than 1mm. Any thoughts?

 

[Tim Marlow]

Hi bud. Cutting 1 mm or 0.5 mm is pretty much the same thing, though 1 mm will need more passes with the knife to break through. Plasticard is easily rigid enough to allow you to cut cleanly and with straight edges, though I would ensure I used a new blade to maximise accuracy. I would also cut out the internal apertures before trimming the window to final size. This will maximise strength and make it much easier to handle.

The reason I said to use 1 mm is because at 1/50 scale 0.5 mm deep windows will only give you the effect of a 25 mm deep window frame. That’s one inch in old money, and quite shallow for a real frame. Probably great for window bars though. I would look at real windows of the type you are trying to replicate, and try to replicate the various layers you see. I would also test an off cut of the foam board with plastic cement to make sure it doesn’t melt. If it does, you will have to glue your windows in with PVA. Not an issue, but better to be forewarned.

 

[Johnners]

This is great information Tim, thank you. I'd based 0.5mm on a reasonable thickness for the window sill. With 2mm thick walls I was thinking of cutting a 3mm wide strip of 0.5 to give me a window sill that scaled up to 150mm deep by 25mm thick. I take your point about the depth of the window frame though, so maybe I need some of each. Either way, it seems like the way to go.

I'd also wondered about cutting out the internal apertures first and it's great that you've suggested that as it gives me more confidence in what I'm doing.

When it comes to gluing, I will be using High viscosity superglue for the foam walls. Will this not be suitable for the Plasticard? As you can tell, I'm in virgin territory here.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Superglue will be fine for the plasticard, though it can leave a residue that may need cleaning up. I would also check the foam board is compatible with it because it can melt really quickly. I haven’t used foam board that much, but have always used PVA as it’s pretty forgiving. I have held the parts in place with pins or Tamiya tape until they set. For what you are doing, it will probably be easier to make most of the windows, doors etc and glue them in place while the walls are flat. Once you’ve done this you can assemble the box structure of the building. Again, it makes handling and access easier and minimises the risk of damage. Obviously, if you are putting on any fragile sticky out bits, put them on after assembling the box. Think of it as building a kit, albeit one where you have to make all the parts yourself first

 

[Johnners]

Thank for the information about the glue. and I'll be sure to check what I use on scrap pieces first.

You're building my confidence more and more as I'd planned to fit the doors and windows and complete much of the brickwork painting with all the sections lying flat. My biggest concern with this build is the roof, but it will just have to wait until I've got the main structure assembled.

You're a star, thank you.