discussion Another newbie asking for advise....please

[Stubod]

Hi, I got the 8 piece Gundam toolkit as it seemed to have everything I thought I might need, also got a (cheap) 6 piece brush set, 6 Different Sizes: Artist brushes set includes 6 types for different styles,Size: 5/0, 2, 6, 1/4, 8, 3/4 .......hope they will be OK, but cheap enough at under fiver, so may need to buy another set at some point.

Not sure whether I need one of the "fine" triangular handle brushes???...but will see how I get on once I start messing things up good and proper!!

 

[Tim Marlow]

Plastic cutlery is also useful for spray practice. The shapes and edges help develop trigger control.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Sounds like the brush set is a good starter. When you clean them rinse them well, then swirl them on a bar of soap to get a lather. Once you’ve done that, rinse them well under the cold tap, remove excess water and restore the point, then store them in the brush protectors (clear tube) they came with until next use. They should do a good few models for you then. When they start to get tired ask again and we can point you at better quality replacements that will last longer.

 

[Del640]

The only expense on a basic modelling tool for me was a Swann Morton scalpel knife.

Absolutely sublime.

Not such a shoddy price either!

Del

 

[Tim Marlow]

Completely agree Del, they eat all modelling knives for breakfast! I acquired about half a dozen handles when the safety elves at work said we had to get rid of them and replace them with safety knives.....I use all sorts of blades, but 15a and 11are my favourites. I have two retractable handles that hold these and keep them pristine. That’s only an advanced purchase though. A number three handle and a pack of 11s will get you a long way. Worth spending a couple of pounds on a used blade remover/bin as well.

 

[spanner570]

Although I have Swann Morton blades, which I tend to use just for scraping seams on plastic, I far prefer the good old Stanley knife ( other knives are available)

The blades are good and strong and last for ages.

Scalpel blades are just for that - Cutting skin, not plastic........

Your servant,
Sweeney Todd

 

[Dave Ward]

Stu,
before you get to actually applying paint - it can be helpful if you wash the plastic surface ( with soapy water ) & dry - this should remove any surface grease ( from your hands etc ), which could cause adhesion problems - this is the same for acrylics, or enamels. If a sprue feels particularly greasy - I dunk the whole lot in the sink with warm soapy water, rinse & air dry before taking any bits off, not only paint adhesion can be improved, but gluing as well. With some of the older models, especially the old Eastern Europe variety, I used an uktrasonic bath to get them really clean ( OK, a bit OOT! )
Dave

Stu,
don't take a hair drier to the plastic - it'll warp & you'll have a really hard time correcting it. I normally lay the rinsed parts on a sheet of newspaper & let dry overnight. - Knives? I'm a Swann Morton Scalpel user - 14A blades - they're very sharp & you have to take care, but hey, who needs a complete set of fingers!
Dave

 

[Stubod]

...duly noted thanks....

 

[Tim Marlow]

Which one is a 14A blade Dave? I’m a bit of a scalpel groupie and don’t think I’ve come across that one.....as to Ron and his box cutter....sledgehammer and nut come to mind :tongue-out3: Mind you, they're good for Lino and carpets LOL....

 

[Dave Ward]

Which one is a 14A blade Dave? I’m a bit of a scalpel groupie and don’t think I’ve come across that one.....as to Ron and his box cutter....sledgehammer and nut come to mind :tongue-out3: Mind you, they're good for Lino and carpets LOL....

Oops - getting late - I meant 10A - in a #3 handle.................
Dave

 

[Tim Marlow]

Cheers mate... had me going there....have you tried a 15a? They are great for parts clean up. The curve doesn’t leave a flat on the part.

 

[spanner570]

Tim.
Yes, indeed great for lino and carpets ,but just as good at intricate stuff.....and safer. Try cutting lino and carpet with a scalpel. So there!

 

[Tim Marlow]

LOL, number four handle and a number 25 blade will do it no trouble.....mind you, I have at least three Stanleys as well.....the ones I don’t like are the snap off type, only have one of those :tongue-out3:

 

[spanner570]

I don't like those snap off ones either, preferring the 'One piece' turnaroundable blade.

Anyway, best stop this as we are going off subject a tad. Besides which, a Horlicks is calling! :sleeping:

Regards,
Rip van Winkle

 

[PaulTRose]

dont know why they still make the snap off type......technically not legal in the workplace any more.......horrible things, and wasteful too i think

 

[GerryW]

Must admit that years ago, I always used to use nail clippers to separate from sprue, but now that I've re-started, thinking about getting some snips.

 

[Dave Ward]

This is an interesting shop.................... https://www.tafsproducts.co.uk/collections/swann-morton
A psychopaths wonderland!
Dave

 

[Tim Marlow]

I haven’t thought of a use for the skin graft blades yet Dave......

 

[stillp]

Last year I scoured the internet trying to find the best price for scalpel blades, and bought a couple of boxes of numbers 15 and 11... then found they're cheaper in John's shop!

I bought a bucket of second-hand tools that were advertised locally, and found that among the car tools that were the reason I bought them there was a small box of scalpel blades that included some 11P - the P seems to mean pointed, very handy for masking canopies.
Pete

 

[Bobby Conkers]

Must admit that years ago, I always used to use nail clippers to separate from sprue, but now that I've re-started, thinking about getting some snips.

I find these really useful for tiny bits!

Also, proper podiatry/manicure snips seem to be better than specialist modelling snips for me, and a good deal cheaper!