discussion Best adhesive for resin parts?

[pjgtech]

What is the best/most effective adhesive for attaching resin parts?
I've recently used some resin figures in 1/35th scale (plus a few other small accessory parts, fuel drums, tank stowage, etc) and I simply used normal Tamiya extra thin (after cleaning and sanding first) to glue the arms, legs, heads on, etc, and I did not seem to have any issues.

But, I was just watching a YouTube vid (Manns Models, see linky) and he recommended super glue for resin parts.
So was just wondering if I've used the wrong glue?
Cheers

https://youtu.be/IpDgStK2koc?si=uWaDaG_VOml0J0Wz

 

[Mr Bowcat]

Yep, CA for resin. I don't think TET will touch it.

Edited to add: though you say TET did work for you. Strange??

 

[LeytonO]

I use CA on parts like resin wheels, Zap a Gap Green is my usual brand.

 

[pjgtech]

Yep, used it a few times, seemed to work ok. I did not know that CA is the preferred adhesive.

 

[pjgtech]

Think I'll go and check on the resin figures I'm working on now, to see how well they have "stuck"?
I got the resin figures from Ali Express and also from Temu, so maybe they are not resin, but the seller is just calling them that? I suppose its possible they are plastic instead?

 

[kacitgirl]

good old superglue woks for me however the gel type as has better control

 

[Mr Bowcat]

TET shouldn't work on resin as it's a plasti-weld, ie it melts the two surfaces together. Resin shouldn't melt under TET, hence the preference for CA.

 

[Jim R]

I've only made a couple of resin kits and generally used CA. The only drawback is that CA doesn't give much wriggle time and so where a part may need careful positioning it can cure too quickly. I have found a couple of solutions. First idea is to glue the parts with PVA. Although the bond is very weak it does allow fine positioning. Then wick thin CA along the join to make it strong. The other idea that works well is to use 5 minute epoxy. A few minutes to place the part accurately and a very strong join.

 

[Airborne01]

CA is definitely the genie in the bottle! I also lightly score the mating surfaces to increase the contact area.
Steve

 

[LeytonO]

I've only made a couple of resin kits and generally used CA. The only drawback is that CA doesn't give much wriggle time and so where a part may need careful positioning it can cure too quickly. I have found a couple of solutions. First idea is to glue the parts with PVA. Although the bond is very weak it does allow fine positioning. Then wick thin CA along the join to make it strong. The other idea that works well is to use 5 minute epoxy. A few minutes to place the part accurately and a very strong join.

The Zap a Gap Green I mentioned earlier gives you about 10 seconds for positioning.
That is actually longer than you might imagine and cures after about 20-30 seconds.

 

[Tim Marlow]

I use CA for small resin parts. However, big heavy bits of resin get glued with five minute epoxy because it is a much more secure bond. I spread the epoxy on, leaving a couple of spots free. The free spots get dots of CA so they hold the parts together while the epoxy cures properly.

 

[Jim R]

Using the CA is a good tip.

 

[pjgtech]

So had a little look at a couple of the "resin" figures I've done recently and they certainly feel well connected, not loose, did not feel like they would pull apart when I applied a bit of force, etc, so Tamiya extra thin has worked for me so far. Or, as previously stated, maybe they are not actually resin, (bought from Ali Express/Temu?)