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Hi everyone, I’m completely new to this forum and have only completed a few models over my lifetime but am getting increasingly interested in the hobby
I have recently completed a tamiya Matilda and I’m in the middle of painting (brush)
I am having difficulty with the area where two different camouflage colours meet as there is a noticeable ridge or line. I masked off the area that didn’t need a certain colour then when dry masked the newly painted area but now have the ridge. I paint with watered acrylics
Has anyone any ideas please
 
Firstly welcome to the forum. Join in and have fun.
As to your question. Make certain the edges of the masking tape are well burnished down to prevent paint seeping under the edge. Do not use thick paint, better to give two or three thin coats rather than one thick coat. Brush away from the edge of the tape or along the edge. Do not brush to the edge as the tape ridge will catch paint which will dry to a raised line.
 
Just to add to Jims advice above. To avoid paint seeping under the masking tape you can first run a thin layer of varnish on the edge of the masking tape. This will dry clear and then prevent paint from seeping under it.
 
If you are brush painting you don’t necessarily need to mask off. You can just paint in the shape freehand. If you are unsure of your ability to do this, lightly mark the camo demarcation line in pencil and simply paint very slightly over it to cover the line. No ridge, no masking……if you do want to mask, then Jim’s approach works just fine as well.
 
Welcome to the site



and if you think about it thats how it was done in the real world

I believe Spits and Hurrys were masked with big rubber mats when painted in the factory, ie, sling the mat on and paint round it….supposedly accounts for some aircraft being seen in mirror imaged schemes.
 
I believe Spits and Hurrys were masked with big rubber mats when painted in the factory, ie, sling the mat on and paint round it….supposedly accounts for some aircraft being seen in mirror imaged schemes.

That i didnt know....but it explains a lot

There is a famous pic of a spit getting invasion stripes that look so rough you would think ray charles painted them
 
Also what type of masking tape are you using?
You don't want to use decorators masking tape as its too think, so you could get a thick paint line where the edge is.
You can get specialist very thin/very fine model making masking tape, eg: Tamiya, hobbycraft, etc, which are much better suited to the job.
I have also seen a YT video where someone used thin rolled up blutac to roughly make the shape they needed, paint round it, then peel it off when the paint is dry. Could still have the thick paint edges problem though, and doubt it would be any good for small patterns.... 8-)
Cheers
 
That i didnt know....but it explains a lot

There is a famous pic of a spit getting invasion stripes that look so rough you would think ray charles painted them

LOL….I think I’ve seen a picture of a Dakota getting it’s stripes painted with a yard brush somewhere….
 
Also what type of masking tape are you using?
You don't want to use decorators masking tape as its too think, so you could get a thick paint line where the edge is.
You can get specialist very thin/very fine model making masking tape, eg: Tamiya, hobbycraft, etc, which are much better suited to the job.
I have also seen a YT video where someone used thin rolled up blutac to roughly make the shape they needed, paint round it, then peel it off when the paint is dry. Could still have the thick paint edges problem though, and doubt it would be any good for small patterns.... 8-)
Cheers

Blue tack works, been using it for years, as does Panzer putty/Silly putty/Science putty/Physiotherapist putty (it’s all the same thing)….. Best for airbrush work though.
 
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