discussion Dave W's Phantom

[flyjoe180]

It's looking very nice Dave. Looking forward to seeing the salt chipping at work.

 

[Ian M]

Might I suggest that you do a little bit of salt, then spray gull gray. Then give it the rest.

I believe they had the camouflage painted over the factory paint....

Ian M

 

[Dave W]

Tonight Ive put some salt on the model as I'm going to try and replicate some of the paint wear on Robin Olds Phantom.Ive sprayed the tips of the Sargent Fletcher tanks aluminium as I'm going to weather these as well.I remember from my time working on Phantoms in the RAF that the paint was usually eroded to bare metal at the front end of the tanks.Ive also scribed the detail on the stabilators and filled in some sink marks.Tomorrow I will start spraying the camo.This is the first time Ive tried salt weathering.Be interesting to see how it turns out.Ive put salt on the wing and fin leading edges as well.

 

[flyjoe180]

Look forward to seeing how this turns out Dave.

 

[Dave W]

So am I Joe.Hope I don't ruin the model!.not done it before.But I want to improve my skills.So I need to try new techniques.Im off to work now so it will have to wait until this evening

 

[Ian M]

Go for it Dave! I will look forward to seeing the results of your efforts. The first time is always the fun one....

Ian M

 

[papa 695]

Great work Dave should look good when you take the salt off later ( fingers crossed for you )

 

[Dave W]

A bit more progress.I masked the underside and in doing so managed to knock some of the salt off.So I applied some more and then sprayed the tan colour.Started masking off the tan this evening.Will hopefully finish masking tomorrow and spray the medium green on.

 

[flyjoe180]

Keen to see the edges of the camouflage when it's done Dave.

 

[Dave W]

Sprayed the two greens on then removed all the masking.Realised I had got the greens arse about face!.The dark should be where the light green is and vice versa.i then set about removing the salt.This proved to be quite difficult.I think it's come out best on the right hand side of the model.Honest opinions welcomed.Its the first time Ive tried it.The problem now is the rest of the paint work is pristine.Not sure what to do.Ive also managed to lose an aileron!.Should be easy to make a new one though.

 

[Ian M]

Well for a first attempt, that has turned out quite well. It can be a bit of a pig to get off at times. I use an old tooth brush and if that dont do the trick its a combo of water and a finger tip!!

Ian M

 

[Dave W]

I used a toothbrush on it whilst holding the model under a running tap.Ended up using my fingertip like you Ian!.

 

[flyjoe180]

That worked well Dave.

 

[Dave W]

Thanks Joe.Need to think of a way to make the rest of the paintwork look not so new.Im not a fan of preshading.I don't think it looks very realistic.So I need to think of something else.

 

[Guest]

The margin between the two camo colours is surprisingly sharp (to me at any rate) rather than a little fuzzy. Did you hold the AB vertically pointing down at all times?

 

[Dave W]

I wasn't after a 'fuzzy' edge Steve.I tried to replicate the finish on the one in the photograph as viewed from a distance.

 

[papa 695]

Looking very good Dave and a very nice job on the chipping

 

[Guest]

I think you've nailed the camo effect there Dave. I agree with the pre-shading point too - it can look OTT, especially in small scales.

 

[Guest]

I wasn't after a 'fuzzy' edge Steve.I tried to replicate the finish on the one in the photograph as viewed from a distance.

I'm not too much of a fan of the fuzzy look-it can make a paint job look sloppy. I have not looked hard enough at original paint jobs (but will do). Assuming that the distance from when the fuzzyness starts at one colour and stops at the other colour, is 1 inch (25mm), at 1/72 that equates to 25/72 mm = 0.37 mm. At 1/48 it is 25/48 = 0.52 mm, and at 1/36 scale = 0.74 mm. Even if the fuzziness occurs over a distance greater than 1 inch, it seems to be undetectable to the eye in most scales even at close range.

So, the conclusion seems to me to be that masks stuck directly on the model is the best way. Any other views?

I like your photo. Shows off the model nicely which gives a very good impression that it is flying. I prefer propeller planes and it is difficult editing the props in a photo to appear to be convincingly rotating.

 

[Dave W]

I'm not too much of a fan of the fuzzy look-it can make a paint job look sloppy. I have not looked hard enough at original paint jobs (but will do). Assuming that the distance from when the fuzzyness starts at one colour and stops at the other colour, is 1 inch (25mm), at 1/72 that equates to 25/72 mm = 0.37 mm. At 1/48 it is 25/48 = 0.52 mm, and at 1/36 scale = 0.74 mm. Even if the fuzziness occurs over a distance greater than 1 inch, it seems to be undetectable to the eye in most scales even at close range.So, the conclusion seems to me to be that masks stuck directly on the model is the best way. Any other views?

I like your photo. Shows off the model nicely which gives a very good impression that it is flying. I prefer propeller planes and it is difficult editing the props in a photo to appear to be convincingly rotating.

That's actually a photo of a real Phantom Steve !.