discussion How to scribe?

[Peej]

As I get more into building I am looking at ways to make my models look better. I have noticed a lot of modellers scribe panels on wings etc and must admit it makes a fantastic effect. I would like to try this on my builds but don't know how. Any advice would be gratefully received.

 

[Ian M]

Well a good place to start is buy one of these: http://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/plastic-scriber-ii-tamiya.html.  There are cheaper ones (and more expensive ones) but this one uses ordinary P cutter blades which can be found in DIY and Art supply shops.


Next you will need a flexible ruler. I find a little 6" job quite good. to the back of that stick a wide rubber band. this will help stop it slipping. Many use sticky dymo lable tape but the old stuff is the best (its thicker) but getting harder to find as the lable machines now print rather that emboss the letters! 


Get a sheet of plastic card and start practising. Very gentle pressure on the knife and draw it along the guide. it is better to take two or three light passes than one heavy one. 


If you look on the SM shops scribing tool section, you will see there are loads of tools, templates are useful and a scribe that can scratch a line in all directions is also a good idea.


Hope this helps a bit.

 

[Guest]

I use a very cheap, but refined scriber, it is the ScribeR by RB Productions. I used it recently on my Eduard Fw 190D-9 build and it is a brilliant tool and cheap as well. I also use scrap PE from eduard sets and use the border edge as a template for scribing lines. They also conform around fuselages very well. The lines that it scribes are in scale and perfect for 1/48 and 1/32


I find the Tamiya one can be a little too broad in it's lines that it scribes for 1/48 and 1/72 and if you slip, it takes a lot of effort to eliminate the lines. I only have it for cutting plasticard.


Cheers, John

 

[John]

I have just ordered some more Lionroar scribing templates, hopefully should be in in a couple of weeks

 

[stona]

Scribers are very much a matter of choice. I use one from Bare Metal Foil and find it excellent.


If I could give one tip to go along with the advice above, it would be to always make sure that you are scribing paralell to your guide, that is the tool is being pulled with the handle lined up along the line you want to scribe. Most times the line deviates from the desired course it is because the person scribing has failed to do this...ask me how I know!


Incidentally I hate scribing panel lines and will go to extraordinary lengths to preserve detail originally molded on the model. I grew up with raised lines etc and am happy to leave them be. Templates are great for re-scribing things like access panels which are in the wrong place or missing.


Cheers


Steve

 

[Peej]

Thanks everyone. Plenty there to think about there. I've got a couple of old planes that didn't work out right. Kept to practice different things with so they can be used as scribe guinea pigs.

 

[Guest]

Does anyone else have the problem that re-scribing detail in a place where you've used filler never really turns out right? It's a shame as many of the more modern kits have join lines which run along panel lines, and if the fit isn't exactly right and you have to use any filler, it's a bit of a nightmare to rescribe. Generally I find the softer the filler (such as the white sort that feels a bit like polyfilla) the harder it is to scribe, but any sort causes me problems. Anyone know any tricks to help with this?

 

[Gern]

Only tried using it a couple of times, but what about making your own filler? Take a small amount of extra thin cement and add some small pieces of plastic - from an old sprue or similar. Dissolve more plastic into the cement until you get the sort of thickness you want and you can use this like your normal filler. The cement will soften the plastic on the kit and melt it together with the plastic from the cement. Once the solvent has evaporated, all the plastic will harden. As your joint is now 100% plastic, you can sand smooth and your scribe lines will be consistent as you're scribing in the same material.


Phil Flory has a tutorial on his website.

 

[stona]

I've tried that method and made a bit of a mess. I suspect that was due to my ineptitude rather than any intrinsic problem with the method


I do use CA glue, sometimes with talcum powder as a filler, but you really need to sand and scribe this before it has completely cured. As I implied above, I go to great lengths to avoid scribing, it is not one of my favourite pastimes.


Cheers


Steve