discussion Jakko’s Tyrrell P34, Tamiya 1/20

[Mark1]

That's looking the part now.

 

[Guest]

Thanks. Now to finish the body … Including finding a reasonable shade of blue somewhere …

 

[Allen Dewire]

Wow, Killer motor Jakko!!! It looks great and nicely detailed...

I read somewhere, maybe on here, that if you put the tires in the freezer, till they're frozen. Take one out, and you could trim the seamline off and sand the rest down. to make them look like real slicks. Repeat for the others and/or if one thaws before you're done. Can't hurt to try it...

Prost
Allen

 

[Stefee]

That looks mighty fine.

 

[Guest]

Thanks

put the tires in the freezer

Good idea, I’ll try that. What’s the worst that could happen? A broken tyre?

 

[Allen Dewire]

Nah, frostbite on your fingers in the worse case....Tires are tough....

 

[minitnkr]

Who'd run coolant hoses next to header pipes? Seems an obvious failure point.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Thanks :smiling3:


Good idea, I’ll try that. What’s the worst that could happen? A broken tyre?

Another option is to fit the tyre to a mandrel, chuck it in a drill, and rotate it against 800 grit wet or dry. Any coarser than that and the rubber comes off in chunks.
Personally I think rubber tyres are the worst things about car and bike kits. I really don’t get it, and never have.

 

[colin m]

Question: the rear tyres have a big mould seam running down the middle. I’ve tried removing it with a sharp knife but only succeeded in taking a little bit off. How would I go about getting rid of it entirely so the tyre looks like a slick?

Some say freeze the tyre first, then sand the seam off.

 

[Lee Drennen]

I’m aiming for a not-bad job

Didn’t know that was in your vocabulary Wow you are human.

 

[Lee Drennen]

entirely so the tyre looks like a slick?

Sand it with a very flexible sanding pad about 100 grit if you don’t want to bring out the Dremel. Don’t know about the freezing I’ve sand 1/25 Truck tires for over 30 years this way I think freezing might manipulate the shape of the tire especially if the rubber Tire doesn’t have memory made in the rubber. You might make flat spots on it because it’s not flexible because it’s frozen if you sand the tires by hand. Just my opinion. Here’s a example of the method I’ve been using for years on one of my Resin Truck builds you can see the very bad seam down the middle of the tires then the end result in the second pic Hope this helps

 

[Guest]

Who'd run coolant hoses next to header pipes? Seems an obvious failure point.

Maybe they did it this way because Formula 1 engines only really need to last for a race, so the failure time doesn’t really come into play? I don’t know, just guessing

Now I’ve got a different problem with the tyre seams, though: so many ways to choose from to remove them Maybe just try them all …

 

[Lee Drennen]

try them all …

You definitely have plenty of tires

 

[Guest]

But none I can mess up

 

[Guest]

As I mentioned near the start, I lost the screw that secures the engine to the chassis when taking the sprue pictures, and despite looking for it for ages, I couldn’t find it again It’s not an absolutely vital part, as you could replace it with a pin or something, or just trust in glue, but I wanted to put a screw in there anyway. My father’s collection of old screws came to the rescue:

View attachment 511718

I suspect the screw is older than the original issue of this kit, but it fits — just about. The thread is the right diameter and length, but the head is slightly bigger than the hole it’s supposed to sit in, so I had to cut away a bit of the locating ridge on the underside of the body. No big deal, though.

I’ve also started on the driver figure. He seems to fit well enough, but you get nicely printed seatbelts with etched buckles in the kit, that you’re told not to use if you fit the driver. So, he went from this:

View attachment 511719

… to this:

View attachment 511720

… so that I can stick the seatbelts onto his body after I build and paint him

I also installed the front roll bars and the shaft for the steering wheel:

View attachment 511721

Mainly because that’s necessary to be able to put the driver’s hands in the right place to hold the wheel.

Doing that required minor plastic surgery, though:

View attachment 511722

The figure does not seem to have been designed specifically for this kit, so his arms are slightly too long to fit properly. I had to cut them down a little where they stuck behind his shoulders, as otherwise they got pushed too far forward by the seat, and also shave off a bit on his left arm to get it to sit slightly more to the left, as he wouldn’t really hold the wheel otherwise.

 

[Jim R]

Excellent progress. I hope you can sort the seam line on the tyres. I don't really understand why they make rubber tyres for models. Perhaps it's simply that real tyres are rubber so rubber must be good for models :rolling:

 

[Stefee]

Great progress.

 

[Guest]

I hope you can sort the seam line on the tyres. I don't really understand why they make rubber tyres for models. Perhaps it's simply that real tyres are rubber so rubber must be good for models :rolling:

I haven’t looked at doing that at all yet But I suppose you’re right about the reason for the rubber tyres. It also makes it easier to mould intricate profiles, of course, but slicks kind of don’t have those Maybe it’s just that car modellers expect rubber tyres, while armour modellers don’t usually want them.

 

[Tworrs]

Great surgery Jakko.

 

[Lee Drennen]

Updates look good Jakko. Hope you can get over these obstacles and continue. Figure looks like it’s going to work.