Not so finished David and Goliath
- Thread starter rtfoe
- Start date
Thank you Gentlemen. :smiling2:
Okay, here is what I did more with balsa...and it wasn't Salsa. I made these doors with 45 degree joints and was told in Europe doors were made with straight butt joints...
...so I had to re-do them. The laminates were from old safety matchbox covers. They're very hard to find now as the covers have been replaced with cardboard.
I will add the frame to hide the gaps on the side and top...my plastering still needs practice.
I experimented on rough speckled texture for this portion of the wall...
This was done with just a sieve and a spray dicanter of water. I sealed it with a layer of sprayed on Future varnish.
John, I'm sure you've seen this...
Cheers,
Richard
Greg, the collection of images I have of my progress seems that way doesn't it? I've been waiting years myself to see what really happens. :smiling6:
John, so it's a good thing I am revitalising this build here. Later on you'll see how I did the windows.
Neil, this was something I hadn't prepared but now have collected some from Dragon and Tamiya with some needing alterations to their clothing and kit. I will post this later.
Okay, here is what I did more with balsa...and it wasn't Salsa. I made these doors with 45 degree joints and was told in Europe doors were made with straight butt joints...
...so I had to re-do them. The laminates were from old safety matchbox covers. They're very hard to find now as the covers have been replaced with cardboard.
I will add the frame to hide the gaps on the side and top...my plastering still needs practice.
I experimented on rough speckled texture for this portion of the wall...
This was done with just a sieve and a spray dicanter of water. I sealed it with a layer of sprayed on Future varnish.
John, I'm sure you've seen this...
Cheers,
Richard
Richard,
The walls and carpentry look spot on.
The walls and carpentry look spot on.
Thanks guys,
Neil, the experiment did come out alright and about what I wanted.
Scottie, hours in industrial art classes weren't wasted at school. :smiling2:
Cheers,
Richard
Neil, the experiment did come out alright and about what I wanted.
Scottie, hours in industrial art classes weren't wasted at school. :smiling2:
Cheers,
Richard
Once the rough wall texture had set, I divided it with balsa ledge and card supports for a little decoration.
Brick texture was scribed onto the still wet plaster for the side top and smoothen plaster for the bottomside half.
This is the other door on the opposite side of the passageway.
There will be more plastering at the corners and window area later and to do it I need each section to harden before the next step.
Cheers,
Richard
Brick texture was scribed onto the still wet plaster for the side top and smoothen plaster for the bottomside half.
This is the other door on the opposite side of the passageway.
There will be more plastering at the corners and window area later and to do it I need each section to harden before the next step.
Cheers,
Richard
Richard,
Lovely work mate.
Lovely work mate.
Thanks Scottie, here are more close ups. I prefer to work in sections and will clean up joints once at final stage of attaching them. This makes painting them easier as everyone already knows.
The stippling of wet plaster to the balsa or paper surfaces hides their appearance so any material can be used for detailing and coated later.
Cheers,
Richard
The stippling of wet plaster to the balsa or paper surfaces hides their appearance so any material can be used for detailing and coated later.
Cheers,
Richard
Cracking job there Richard,
The various textured finishes really bring a realistic feel to the whole thing,:thumb2:
The details you`ve scribed in must take quite a while to do:thinking:,
What sort of length of time do you have to work with before it starts to cure and make things not comply?!
Cheers,
Andy
The various textured finishes really bring a realistic feel to the whole thing,:thumb2:
The details you`ve scribed in must take quite a while to do:thinking:,
What sort of length of time do you have to work with before it starts to cure and make things not comply?!
Cheers,
Andy
Hi Andy, thanks. Yes I was trying to go for more detailing and testing my skills. It does take a while just about the same time as building a kit. Different plasters cure at different times...plaster of paris is like the CA of glues and sets very fast so I would use that for sprinkling or wet snow sludges. Polyfilla sets slowly and gives me time to work with and later to smoothen. So POP about 45minutes...polyfilla perhaps a couple of hours for the next layer. The thicker it is applied the longer it takes and cracks can appear.
Here's one of my earliest work on plastering a building...
I still use the same techiques in plastering but now use other materials for the detailing which you will see later. Thanks again for commenting.
Cheers,
Richard
Here's one of my earliest work on plastering a building...
I still use the same techiques in plastering but now use other materials for the detailing which you will see later. Thanks again for commenting.
Cheers,
Richard
Superb building there again!!
Thanks for the info Richard most useful for future attempts maybe!!
Andy
Thanks for the info Richard most useful for future attempts maybe!!
Andy
Hi Richard
As always your work impresses. The overall layout is excellent. I do like the buildings. Really nice results from simple materials. When you use plaster do you add PVA to the mix? Does the plaster stick OK to the different base materials?
Jim
As always your work impresses. The overall layout is excellent. I do like the buildings. Really nice results from simple materials. When you use plaster do you add PVA to the mix? Does the plaster stick OK to the different base materials?
Jim
Thank you gentlemen,
Andy, will be looking out for your attempts. :thumb2:
Jim, plaster as its named plasters on any surface that's not oily or smooth. It sticks well to polystyrene because the surface has tiny holes left by the tiny bubble balls that leave spaces in the structure for it to hold. I do sometimes mix wall emulsion paints with the plaster and at times PVA if I plaster on plastics to get mud effects. Plasters are used to create detail on pre-made structures for rigidity and not used for bonding objects as they are not strong. During house renovations I sometimes watch the workers and ask them what they add into their cement mix for plastering and very obligingly tell me they use a mix of cement, plaster and a bonder from latex for the final smooth coating. So I apply the same except the bonder is PVA or emulsion paint. Thanks for asking.
Cheers,
Richard
Andy, will be looking out for your attempts. :thumb2:
Jim, plaster as its named plasters on any surface that's not oily or smooth. It sticks well to polystyrene because the surface has tiny holes left by the tiny bubble balls that leave spaces in the structure for it to hold. I do sometimes mix wall emulsion paints with the plaster and at times PVA if I plaster on plastics to get mud effects. Plasters are used to create detail on pre-made structures for rigidity and not used for bonding objects as they are not strong. During house renovations I sometimes watch the workers and ask them what they add into their cement mix for plastering and very obligingly tell me they use a mix of cement, plaster and a bonder from latex for the final smooth coating. So I apply the same except the bonder is PVA or emulsion paint. Thanks for asking.
Cheers,
Richard
Hi,
I found plastering the inside facings and corners of windows very painstaking and used cereal card for the sides and the design under the ledge...
The top of the window was cut balsa...the inside was painted flat black.
Balsa again was used for the top of the entrance to the passage. You will see the balsa and card before plaster coating on the window to the left.
Brick texture pressed in while the plaster was still soft and an extra protrusion added for the ventilation of the fireplace leading to the chimneys.
I made rain gutters from cut drinking straw and plugged the ends with card.
The top windows will get the same treatment as the bottom windows.
Cheers,
Richard
I found plastering the inside facings and corners of windows very painstaking and used cereal card for the sides and the design under the ledge...
The top of the window was cut balsa...the inside was painted flat black.
Balsa again was used for the top of the entrance to the passage. You will see the balsa and card before plaster coating on the window to the left.
Brick texture pressed in while the plaster was still soft and an extra protrusion added for the ventilation of the fireplace leading to the chimneys.
I made rain gutters from cut drinking straw and plugged the ends with card.
The top windows will get the same treatment as the bottom windows.
Cheers,
Richard
Wow the buildings are superb... this it's going to be fantastic... 
Hey thanks Greg and so is your Heli.
The backside too recieved card corners and balsa ledges...
I also plastered the bottom strips of the walls as seen in old buildings. I wonder if it's for extra support or to shore heavy knocks and errosion.
The pavement is thick mounting board engraved to form slabs.
Cheers,
Richard
The backside too recieved card corners and balsa ledges...
I also plastered the bottom strips of the walls as seen in old buildings. I wonder if it's for extra support or to shore heavy knocks and errosion.
The pavement is thick mounting board engraved to form slabs.
Cheers,
Richard
... i can't wait to see the rubbles and how you will tackle it...
G
OOOH rubble as well , now were talking !... i can't wait to see the rubbles and how you will tackle it...
Sorry Richard got a little carried away there.:nerd:
G
Richard
WOW Fantastic work the detailing is suburb. Love the different materials used , esp the drinking straw for the guttering, I've been buying in plastic half rounds in the past, but will adopt your method.
PM inbound.
WOW Fantastic work the detailing is suburb. Love the different materials used , esp the drinking straw for the guttering, I've been buying in plastic half rounds in the past, but will adopt your method.
PM inbound.
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