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Scale Model Shop

Panel lines

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
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Guest

Guest
Thread owner
They drive me mad.
First panel lines where filling & sanding has lost them.

Secondly to enhance panel lines where they are not very distinct.

I use the Tamiya panel line scratcher. Also a sharp pin in a pin holder. Also a Morton to scribe a line before using the Tamiya & Pin.

For a line which has disappeared due to sanding I use Dymo tape as a guide.

But I stiil get the tools above veering off line and end up filling these error lines.

Any advice on how you do it gratefully received.

Laurie
 
Pretty much the same as you Laurie, except I use an eclipse scriber instead of a pin. it takes a really sharp point and lasts forever. Only wrinkle I can add is that I deepen lines as they are getting sanded off. That way they act as a guide.
 
Very lightly with a few passes. The first doesn't need pressure just the weight of the tool is enough to make a guide for the next pass.
By the third pass you won't need the dymo or ruler as a guide as the groove would be deep enough for the scriber to follow. Just keep your hand steady. I normally hold the scriber with my thumb and middle finger on either side and the index finger on the top for pressure just like holding a pencil.
Hope it helps Laurie.

Cheers
Richard
 
Laurie,
I use a dental probe - hard & very sharp like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dental-E...sh=item238b64e3c7:g:UpoAAOSwIqZZkL5Z&LH_BIN=1
I bought an el cheapo set from China - about 6 double ended probes - of which I regularly use 3.
I use a 15mm wide X 0.75mm thick strip of plastikard as a straight edge - anything from 50mm to 100mm. I've found the best results are light steady strokes, keeping the probe at the same angle. It's a slow process, but I don't think you can speed it up!
Dave
 
There's another thing I forgot to add. With the scriber I would do a reverse pass before the initial first pass as that also helps to create a guide as well.

Cheers,
Richard
 
Thread owner
Tim Marlow said:
Pretty much the same as you Laurie, except I use an eclipse scriber instead of a pin. it takes a really sharp point and lasts forever. Only wrinkle I can add is that I deepen lines as they are getting sanded off. That way they act as a guide.
Click to expand...
The wrinkle bit Tim is a great bit of advice that saves a lot of masking lines.

rtfoe said:
Very lightly with a few passes. The first doesn't need pressure just the weight of the tool is enough to make a guide for the next pass.
By the third pass you won't need the dymo or ruler as a guide as the groove would be deep enough for the scriber to follow. Just keep your hand steady. I normally hold the scriber with my thumb and middle finger on either side and the index finger on the top for pressure just like holding a pencil.
Hope it helps Laurie.

Cheers
Richard
Click to expand...
Thanks Richard more great advice.
rtfoe said:
There's another thing I forgot to add. With the scriber I would do a reverse pass before the initial first pass as that also helps to create a guide as well.

Cheers,
Richard
Click to expand...
Another great tip Richard. Followed that creating a groove with out digging in. when you prime to see the new panel line

All great info. Just shows it is more than worth asking questions as you get great info which just addsto your own repotoire.

Thanks Laurie

PS always exciting :fearful: after priming to see the new panel lines.
 
Thread owner
Tim Marlow said:
Pretty much the same as you Laurie, except I use an eclipse scriber instead of a pin. it takes a really sharp point and lasts forever. Only wrinkle I can add is that I deepen lines as they are getting sanded off. That way they act as a guide.
Click to expand...
Tim is this the tool you use ?
 
It’s also great for pop marking hole centres in plastic before drilling, by the way.....
 
I broke the straight end off of mine when I though it was a good tool to use for tightening up a pin Chuck LOL....they are a bit brittle, but the metal hardness is what allows a good point to be formed. The fractured end sharpened back up just fine on mine..
 
When I am sanding some area where there are loads of panel lines and rivets I don't sand it all in one go. What I mean is I start sanding slowly and once I see that the lines/rivets have started to fade down a little bit I stop sanding and I re-scribe the details before I continue with the sanding. In my case this saved me lots of messed up panel lines as its easier to refresh the lines then re-scribe them again after you have fully sanded them down. Also as others have said gentle pressure on first pass with sharp tool will do wonders.

Correcting the bodywork of some kit is always exercise in patience, rush it and you will make some mistake, either you will get too deep panel lines that look out of proportion and different compared to the other lines on the kit or the blade will stray away from the line and create some unwanted "weathering effect" ;). Learned this the hard way....:rolling:
 
Laurie said:
Hi Alexander

Hold on just about to receive an order for these.

Got the info on another Forum & the info said they were better than Dymo tape.

Will test & let you know. Also there is a lot of difference in what is being charged for these tapes so scout around for the best.

Laurie

Click to expand...

Let me know Laurie
 
Thread owner
Laurie said:
Hi Alexander

Hold on just about to receive an order for these.

Got the info on another Forum & the info said they were better than Dymo tape.

Will test & let you know. Also there is a lot of difference in what is being charged for these tapes so scout around for the best.

Laurie

Click to expand...
Well I have tried them & they are much much better than Dymo. Stick firmly & have a nice edge to work along.

Cannot understand made in Japan & not China.

Smart stuff.

Laurie
 
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