G
Excellent result and explanation, as usual.
Francesco
Francesco
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Great work as usual Paul.
That was a very helpful description.
Loving this build.
Ian M
Loving this build.
Ian M
G
Thanks for all the comments guys......and gal 
.
Monica I wouldn't use a semi gloss just stick with matt all the way through, the only place I use a gloss varnish is a coat on the eyes to give them a bit of a shine.
Polux give it go im sure you will do well with it, I mix my paints to about a cream consistency, I don't know about airbrushes cos I havnt got one
Cheers Francesco
Many thanks Joe
Cheers Ian always glad to help
When I get onto the other side of the butt ill put up some pics of my pallet and how I lay the paints down and try to go into the SBS a bit more
Paul
.Monica I wouldn't use a semi gloss just stick with matt all the way through, the only place I use a gloss varnish is a coat on the eyes to give them a bit of a shine.
Polux give it go im sure you will do well with it, I mix my paints to about a cream consistency, I don't know about airbrushes cos I havnt got one
Cheers Francesco
Many thanks Joe
Cheers Ian always glad to help
When I get onto the other side of the butt ill put up some pics of my pallet and how I lay the paints down and try to go into the SBS a bit more
Paul
G
Hi all
I started on the last quarter of dobbin MKII and ive tried to break down the painting and put it into stages.
So first of all a good base coat that has had 3 or 4 layers and then been left to dry, for the base coat i use a wide flat brush to make sure there are no brush strokes.
You can see from these pics that with a light shone directly overhead it pics out where the shading and highlights should be
The next step is to put in some dark colour, this will be underneath and in the crease where the body meets the hind legs
you dont have to think about blending it at this point just get the colour on and let it dry.
once it has dried thoroughly ill then mix my pallet,
bit messy but as you can see i have white nearest to me and black at the top, the middle one has both colours and then a range of the two colours mixed to give me various shades of grey that i can use quickly.
at this stage ive just started to add a lighter shade of grey to the bottom one, dont worry if the shade is to dark or to light just alter it and go over it again, we are trying to get a graduated difference in tone without a definate line in between
You can see from this pic that i have graduated the shade up to just about white, its not perfect and it wont be on the first run. you can see at one point half way along that the paint wont take because its too wet, ill just have to leave this part and go over it again later. Sometimes it can take several coats to get the right amount of tonal difference. So i moved onto the back leg
A majority of the back leg will be black, but ive started to shade the white areas that willl remain white, so you can see that there is a dark area at the top of the leg which will be faded back to white, the top of the thigh is lighter and there is a long muscle or tendon that is highlighted. This is still the first run at this and there will be several more on the same two areas before ill be happy with it.
Next bit to follow
Paul
I started on the last quarter of dobbin MKII and ive tried to break down the painting and put it into stages.
So first of all a good base coat that has had 3 or 4 layers and then been left to dry, for the base coat i use a wide flat brush to make sure there are no brush strokes.
You can see from these pics that with a light shone directly overhead it pics out where the shading and highlights should be
The next step is to put in some dark colour, this will be underneath and in the crease where the body meets the hind legs
you dont have to think about blending it at this point just get the colour on and let it dry.
once it has dried thoroughly ill then mix my pallet,
bit messy but as you can see i have white nearest to me and black at the top, the middle one has both colours and then a range of the two colours mixed to give me various shades of grey that i can use quickly.
at this stage ive just started to add a lighter shade of grey to the bottom one, dont worry if the shade is to dark or to light just alter it and go over it again, we are trying to get a graduated difference in tone without a definate line in between
You can see from this pic that i have graduated the shade up to just about white, its not perfect and it wont be on the first run. you can see at one point half way along that the paint wont take because its too wet, ill just have to leave this part and go over it again later. Sometimes it can take several coats to get the right amount of tonal difference. So i moved onto the back leg
A majority of the back leg will be black, but ive started to shade the white areas that willl remain white, so you can see that there is a dark area at the top of the leg which will be faded back to white, the top of the thigh is lighter and there is a long muscle or tendon that is highlighted. This is still the first run at this and there will be several more on the same two areas before ill be happy with it.
Next bit to follow
Paul
Cheers paul for your explanation it's very helpful. knowing what to do is half the battle the other half is applying what as been learnt to your model which is the reason I'm doing a lot of figures at the moment I was thinking of getting a wet pallet and maybe some retarder .i did get a couple of DVDs which are very goodView attachment 79271
it's all about practice I feel as it seems the more I do the better they are getting . I can only hope that one day my efforts will be half as good as your own.amazing work you are doing regards JohnView attachment 192294
it's all about practice I feel as it seems the more I do the better they are getting . I can only hope that one day my efforts will be half as good as your own.amazing work you are doing regards JohnView attachment 192294
Attachments
thank you for the great step by step once again Paul, 
and the explanation oh were too, is a great help,i will try to use some of these tips and shows on my next lot off 1.35 horses, i will be doing,
i know you are very busy with this one but have you ever though of doing some think like this with 1.35 heads and figures ?
i do watch a lot off the u tube ones but find they leave bits out maybe your dvd,s john maybe worth a watch as well ,and as you said its all about practice and each time as long as you improve, alittle
is worth it and just be satisfied, with your effete, and see your own mistakes that can be fixed on the next ones and so on , as trying to much to fix some think i think in the end you make it worse
and the explanation oh were too, is a great help,i will try to use some of these tips and shows on my next lot off 1.35 horses, i will be doing,i know you are very busy with this one but have you ever though of doing some think like this with 1.35 heads and figures ?
i do watch a lot off the u tube ones but find they leave bits out maybe your dvd,s john maybe worth a watch as well ,and as you said its all about practice and each time as long as you improve, alittle
is worth it and just be satisfied, with your effete, and see your own mistakes that can be fixed on the next ones and so on , as trying to much to fix some think i think in the end you make it worse
G
Hi John, glad to be of help,and many thanks for the kind words, i havnt got a wet pallet, something i have been thinking of though, but i do use retarder occasionally, especially on larger areas or if i know ill have a couple of hours at the bench. Ive had a look at your figures and you are definately on the right track, if i was going to comment i would say that perhaps a touch more contrast between the lighter and darker areas to make them pop a bit more
Thanks Monica, i dont normally do 1/35 scale, mainly because its too small and my eyes are crap. Johns right about practice but dont get frustrated with it as it then becomes a chore, try new things everytime you do a figure or a horse or whatever and just experiment, for example i did a Dacian warrior and i wanted to make the helmet look like old bronze so i just gathered loads of pics of old bronze and experimented, it didnt come out perfect first time but ive done it several times now and it gets better each time
Paul
Thanks Monica, i dont normally do 1/35 scale, mainly because its too small and my eyes are crap. Johns right about practice but dont get frustrated with it as it then becomes a chore, try new things everytime you do a figure or a horse or whatever and just experiment, for example i did a Dacian warrior and i wanted to make the helmet look like old bronze so i just gathered loads of pics of old bronze and experimented, it didnt come out perfect first time but ive done it several times now and it gets better each time
Paul
G
Hi all
So i carried on as before adding to either the highlights or the shading to get a better transition between the white and grey, it takes a while and sometimes its frustrating, especially between colours at the opposite end of the spectrum, but with a bit of patience it comes out well
Ive then painted in the rump with the mix of black and blue
This now is the opposite of what i was doing, for the white i was adding shading now i have to add highlights
So started of with a dark grey and then gradually lightened it the higher up the muscle or joint that i went.
And finally this is Taz to tell me its time for his walk to the pub and a cider or two
So i carried on as before adding to either the highlights or the shading to get a better transition between the white and grey, it takes a while and sometimes its frustrating, especially between colours at the opposite end of the spectrum, but with a bit of patience it comes out well
Ive then painted in the rump with the mix of black and blue
This now is the opposite of what i was doing, for the white i was adding shading now i have to add highlights
So started of with a dark grey and then gradually lightened it the higher up the muscle or joint that i went.
And finally this is Taz to tell me its time for his walk to the pub and a cider or two
Very interesting to see how this is done Paul, and a nice result so far too mate. Taz has the priorities right, although that looks to me more like a "Is it walk time, is it, is it?" look.
G
Interesting in all the ways Paul!!
Thank you very much for this amazing step by step
Thank you very much for this amazing step by step
G
I thought for a moment there you had repainted the dog as i thought he was black then i realised hes a different scale.
Great work on the neddy MkII. but I have to say that the dog looks very life like
Ian M
Ian M
G
Very interesting and useful, please go on, we're taking notes.
Francesco
Francesco
G
Cheers Guys, young Taz is actually SWMBO dog, except when its pub time then he like to come with me as they give him a sausage
Added the mane,tail and forelock to dobbin, a few more highlights to do and then the yoke cloth and harness to do
Added the mane,tail and forelock to dobbin, a few more highlights to do and then the yoke cloth and harness to do
G
thats a fine looking horse you have there,and now the mane is on the bit i said about is covered lol,very smart indeed
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