discussion Question about decal paper

[Guest]

Hi all I have a question about decal paper and printers. Can I just use ordinary printer ink or will it run when I put the paper in the water to get the decal off, also can I spray over it with enamel laquer.

 

[eddiesolo]

As far as I am aware Ken you can use your inkjet printer and then apply a lacquer...just like you would on a water slide decal.

Si

 

[Guest]

Thanks Si didn't want to buy some then find I had to buy special inks too.

 

[Ian M]

Print the decal and seal it with a few light coats of acrylic varnish. Oh sprayed on. brushing it will drag the ink up-

You will also need to cut close around the printed area as in effect the whole area where there is varnish will become one big decal.

Ian M

 

[Guest]

Thanks Ian have to get some then have a practise.

 

[stona]

Be aware that there are different decal papers for inkjet and laser printers. You will obviously want the inkjet version if that's the sort of printer you will use. I seal mine with a coat of Microscale's Liquid Decal Film. It's good stuff and will also often save dodgy decals, though not always.

Another word of warning. If you decide to use that product make sure you clearly mark the bottle. It looks JUST like Microset and I once sloshed it onto a model by mistake with unpleasant results

Cheers

Steve

 

[downscale model art]

i use halfords clear lacquer. it works fine. dry after about ten mins.

 

[Guest]

Print the decal and seal it with a few light coats of acrylic varnish. Oh sprayed on. brushing it will drag the ink up-You will also need to cut close around the printed area as in effect the whole area where there is varnish will become one big decal.

Ian M

I had trouble at first in getting the decal off the paper, until I realised that, unlike a commercial decal, there is no place for the tweezers (used to hold the decal in the water) to grip without gripping the actual decal film, thus preventing it sliding off the paper. To avoid that, when cutting around the decal image and its paper backing in the usual way, I arranged for a tab (4 mm by 4 mm say) sticking out beyond the actual decal image. I then cut the edge of the decal image (red line) just deeply enough to separate the decal image film and the (blank) film on the tab but not enough to cut through the paper backing which would separate the tab completely. The tweezers can then grip that tab and the cut allows the decal image to slide off the paper.

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[Guest]

Sorry not sure what you're saying the way I normally do decals is to put them in the water it they are ready to come off then slide them between tumble and finger till the decal is sticking off the paper then use tweezers. How would that not work with decal paper.

 

[Guest]

Sorry not sure what you're saying the way I normally do decals is to put them in the water it they are ready to come off then slide them between tumble and finger till the decal is sticking off the paper then use tweezers. How would that not work with decal paper.

OK. Your way works because by sliding the film partly off the paper you can put your tweezers on to that part which no longer has film on it. Many of my home-made decals are very flimsy - long and narrow - and tend to float away and crease and fold up easily which is disastrous, so I want to avoid moving them more than the tiny amount that is necessary to test whether they have unstuck. Another factor for me is that the (white) decal paper that I used (bought from the Shop) has a film that is thinner than commercial decals, which increases the risk of creasing and folding.