I realised just now that I haven't wiped off the wash from the underside so good thing it's easily done with a wet finger or damp cloth.
Cheers,
Richard
Cheers,
Richard
Richard's Dragon 1/72 He 219 A-0 UHU Night Fighter
- Thread starter rtfoe
- Start date
Richard,
Nice work on the panel lines and the new propellers.
Nice work on the panel lines and the new propellers.
Thanks Scottie, glad you like them. The propellers were a near miss but I can live with the not so smooth detail...only glad it got salvaged. Here they are all painted up and fixed on...
The canopy got a temporary mask while Future was sprayed overall to seal the panel line wash. The exhaust with base paint ready for weathering and graphite rub. These will be attached and light exhaust stains airbrushed.
The decalslook like they will shatter so will make mask for the Balkankruez and perhaps varnish the emblems and numerals before soaking them. Fingers crossed it works.
Cheers,
Richard
The canopy got a temporary mask while Future was sprayed overall to seal the panel line wash. The exhaust with base paint ready for weathering and graphite rub. These will be attached and light exhaust stains airbrushed.
The decalslook like they will shatter so will make mask for the Balkankruez and perhaps varnish the emblems and numerals before soaking them. Fingers crossed it works.
Cheers,
Richard
Hi Guys, I have some update. This time they are regarding the decals. On taking a closer look they appear fragile plus the whites were yellowing and may have the tendancy of disintegrating when immursed in water. So I took the liberty to photostat two copies as a guide to cutting out masks. Then I sprayed vanish over the remainder of the decals that I would be using.
I used tamiya masking tape and pasted them over a cut out window from typewriting paper flat ont a cutting mat. I placed the photostats ontop and cut away. The balkenkruez for the underneath of the wing and the side fuselage masks were in two stages for the white and black. The following are the masks after the process...
The process below is for the second stage after I had already sprayed the white...
The outcome was better than I had expected...I had to break off the weight stabilizers to let the mask lay flat. I will re-stick them after the process.
The wing top just needed only one process and mask for the black.
Even the side balkenkruez worked out well as I was afraid the thinner outlines wouldn't cover properlly and be misaligned. Cutting out the lines not easy and it took me at least two hours for the masks.
I work on the swastika next and then the salvaged decal numerals and emblem. After that I will try some weathering.
I won't want to go through this again and will take more care with my decals the next time...perhaps store them in proper folders and away from moisture.
Cheers,
Richard
I used tamiya masking tape and pasted them over a cut out window from typewriting paper flat ont a cutting mat. I placed the photostats ontop and cut away. The balkenkruez for the underneath of the wing and the side fuselage masks were in two stages for the white and black. The following are the masks after the process...
The process below is for the second stage after I had already sprayed the white...
The outcome was better than I had expected...I had to break off the weight stabilizers to let the mask lay flat. I will re-stick them after the process.
The wing top just needed only one process and mask for the black.
Even the side balkenkruez worked out well as I was afraid the thinner outlines wouldn't cover properlly and be misaligned. Cutting out the lines not easy and it took me at least two hours for the masks.
I work on the swastika next and then the salvaged decal numerals and emblem. After that I will try some weathering.
I won't want to go through this again and will take more care with my decals the next time...perhaps store them in proper folders and away from moisture.
Cheers,
Richard
Richard that is a cracking result they look perfect. All the time spent paid off.
They look really good Richard.
Pete
Pete
Richard
An excellent job. Very well done indeed!
ATB
Andrew
An excellent job. Very well done indeed!
ATB
Andrew
G
Richard, you are a hard act to follow, he's me as mad as can be starting to enter the world of 1/72 wingies, and you produce stuff like this ! :thumb2::thumb2::thumb2::smiling:
Only Russian of course and in-between 1/35 dios, but fun.
Only Russian of course and in-between 1/35 dios, but fun.
Nice work Richard
Hi Richard
That has worked out extremely well. Time, skill and patience making the masks has payed off. I hope the decals you will use behave and not fall apart. Would it be worth copying and printing your own onto decal paper just incase things go badly?
As John says "You're a hard act to follow"
Jim
That has worked out extremely well. Time, skill and patience making the masks has payed off. I hope the decals you will use behave and not fall apart. Would it be worth copying and printing your own onto decal paper just incase things go badly?
As John says "You're a hard act to follow"
Jim
Excellent work on those masks Richard, came out very good indeed! :thumb2:
Thanks Scottie, Peter, Andrew, John, Mick, Jim and Steven...
I thought of doing something crazy and the free afternoon at the LHS work group chatting as we delved into our respective builds turned out well spent. The spraying session itself took only less than half an hour. I had thought of photocopying onto decal paper for the black layers but the yellowing of the film left a distinct shadow. I would have had to scan and traced an artwork for clean black lines to print. I opted for the crazy option.
The spraying fortunately for me doesn't leave any decal film. Seriously anyone can do this...they're all straight lines.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the varnish on the decals hold the prints that I need. I don't fancy masking numerals with compound curves. :smiling2:
Cheers,
Richard
I thought of doing something crazy and the free afternoon at the LHS work group chatting as we delved into our respective builds turned out well spent. The spraying session itself took only less than half an hour. I had thought of photocopying onto decal paper for the black layers but the yellowing of the film left a distinct shadow. I would have had to scan and traced an artwork for clean black lines to print. I opted for the crazy option.
The spraying fortunately for me doesn't leave any decal film. Seriously anyone can do this...they're all straight lines.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the varnish on the decals hold the prints that I need. I don't fancy masking numerals with compound curves. :smiling2:
Cheers,
Richard
Well it had to happen. The decals misbehaved or should I say couldn't be saved...
Somehow moisture may have gotten into the plastic bag during the flood and perhaps the glue backing had dissolved so the decals have stuck fast to the backing paper. Even a coat of varnish didn't help.
Anyway I will have to resort to scan and draw the images and reprint on decal paper. The good thing is the Balkenkruez masks worked. The other possibility is to get AM decals if it's in the market.
I'll keep you posted on the progress.
Cheers,
Richard
Somehow moisture may have gotten into the plastic bag during the flood and perhaps the glue backing had dissolved so the decals have stuck fast to the backing paper. Even a coat of varnish didn't help.
Anyway I will have to resort to scan and draw the images and reprint on decal paper. The good thing is the Balkenkruez masks worked. The other possibility is to get AM decals if it's in the market.
I'll keep you posted on the progress.
Cheers,
Richard
Decided to make new propellers...somebody accidentally left one of the cats in the room and it was mayhem again. Anyway even though one of the props was broken it had to be done as the earlier resin and reaction to the Cyano filling started to warp the props.
Using the slower curing clear resin makes a crispier cast with no filling except for a bubble near the tip of one of the props. Easy fill up with E7 green filler.
Even with primer the paint reacted to the resin in the older props. Also bubbling occured when painted. I have never encountered so much problems with a build such as this and it's no fault of the kit either.
It does look better dry fitted...now time for painting again.
Cheers,
Richard
Using the slower curing clear resin makes a crispier cast with no filling except for a bubble near the tip of one of the props. Easy fill up with E7 green filler.
Even with primer the paint reacted to the resin in the older props. Also bubbling occured when painted. I have never encountered so much problems with a build such as this and it's no fault of the kit either.
It does look better dry fitted...now time for painting again.
Cheers,
Richard
Hi Richard glad you managed to sort the issue.
Hi Scottie, other times I would have left well alone or just stuck on the broken propeller but since I still had the mold I thought trying another resin formula. Good thing it turned out ok.
Meanwhile one of these things fell off and went missing so it had to be scratched...
This was what the other one looked like below...
Cheers,
Richard
Meanwhile one of these things fell off and went missing so it had to be scratched...
This was what the other one looked like below...
Cheers,
Richard
Nice repair.
Thanks Ian. The little bubble dots in the first picture give this away as the casted wheel. :smiling6:
Cheers,
Richard
Cheers,
Richard
Looking good Richard
Hi Joe...a bit late on the reply, apologies and thanks. The delay is partly due to getting the right frame of mind to cut out the stencils...
All masked...just needs a steady hand and a sharp blade...truth is I'm having a ball with the Kure Harbour dio so this gets put aside for a while.
Cheers,
Richard
All masked...just needs a steady hand and a sharp blade...truth is I'm having a ball with the Kure Harbour dio so this gets put aside for a while.
Cheers,
Richard
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