Sukhoi Su-27 Flanker B Trumpeter Scale 1:32
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Today I was gluing together one of the missiles and what a great learning experience.
1. I was amazed to find out that working on these little parts was actually manageable.
I think fingers get used to handle these tiny parts and of course with the help of tweezers one can do the job (read, me as a total newbie) :smiling6:
2. I have learned that order you glue parts is IMPORTANT, I was ALMOST not able to glue second missile stabs because of the shape and the way you need to put it into the slot.
I managed to do it but had to bend a bit the already glued stabs, it was still wet fresh enough to give it proper angle.
3. I am getting to know the Tamiya Extra Thin Limonene and Tamiya Extra Thin glues.
The regular (green) Extra Thin is so fast, few seconds and the part is there, love it, except of strong odor, I actually like that smell but I know it is not the best thing to enjoy. :tongue-out3:
With Tamiya Extra Thin Limonene, there is slightly more time for working with the parts, actually you need to wait few seconds till the glue dissolves the plastic and then press and hold for several seconds till parts stay.
Great learning experience.
I am pretty satisfied with the result, I even managed to glue the missile stabs kind of perpendicular to each other. :nerd:
The fun continues!!!!
1. I was amazed to find out that working on these little parts was actually manageable.
I think fingers get used to handle these tiny parts and of course with the help of tweezers one can do the job (read, me as a total newbie) :smiling6:
2. I have learned that order you glue parts is IMPORTANT, I was ALMOST not able to glue second missile stabs because of the shape and the way you need to put it into the slot.
I managed to do it but had to bend a bit the already glued stabs, it was still wet fresh enough to give it proper angle.
3. I am getting to know the Tamiya Extra Thin Limonene and Tamiya Extra Thin glues.
The regular (green) Extra Thin is so fast, few seconds and the part is there, love it, except of strong odor, I actually like that smell but I know it is not the best thing to enjoy. :tongue-out3:
With Tamiya Extra Thin Limonene, there is slightly more time for working with the parts, actually you need to wait few seconds till the glue dissolves the plastic and then press and hold for several seconds till parts stay.
Great learning experience.
I am pretty satisfied with the result, I even managed to glue the missile stabs kind of perpendicular to each other. :nerd:
The fun continues!!!!
G
Oh, that looks like fun … Each of those little fins is a separate part, and your cutting mat is marked in centimetres?
Each of those little fins is a separate part, and your cutting mat is marked in centimetres?
Yep, one of those fiddly little jobs of which the usual build has many examples. At least Andrzej can use the cutting mat markings to make sure the fins are square Jakko……
Making a nice job of this though Andrze. Looks like the modelling bug has bitten deep…….
Making a nice job of this though Andrze. Looks like the modelling bug has bitten deep…….
Oh, that looks like fun …
I do not know; it must be centimeters. Actually, I will need to start using the cutting mat not just for cutting.
Tim, I honestly did not even think about it (using squares for alignment) but thanks for another great tip!!! :thumb2:
Yes, the bug got me, I am looking forward each time to do some next step on the project.
Thanks!
G
I counted ten squares between the thick lines, which is why I asked, because it looks like you, despite being in the USA, have a cutting mat marked in real measurementsI do not know; it must be centimeters. Actually, I will need to start using the cutting mat not just for cutting.
Anyway, the lines can be handy for quickly measuring things out, and like Tim says, to make sure pieces are square or straight as well.After being so long (over 30 years) in USA, I got used to inches and decimal inches (work, Solidworks software) so when I was buying a mat, I just wanted it to be big enough and it is.
I like the idea of checking things straight and square though.
Hello my friends!
No, I did not quit.
I was just "possessed" with DCS (Digital Combat Simulator) for few days, pretty cool. Mission Eitor is a real fun.
I hope I can get some more done on SU-27 this weekend.
I just need time!!!!! :tears-of-joy:
I have my SU-27 Flanker B project as scale modeling, another one for X-Plane Flight Simulator and now I discovered this DCS which is also cool.:nerd:
I did not retire yet and having a regular, pretty busy job makes it kind of hard to do all mentioned above, I do the best I can though. :smiling:
No, I did not quit.
I was just "possessed" with DCS (Digital Combat Simulator) for few days, pretty cool. Mission Eitor is a real fun.
I hope I can get some more done on SU-27 this weekend.
I just need time!!!!! :tears-of-joy:
I have my SU-27 Flanker B project as scale modeling, another one for X-Plane Flight Simulator and now I discovered this DCS which is also cool.
:nerd:I did not retire yet and having a regular, pretty busy job makes it kind of hard to do all mentioned above, I do the best I can though. :smiling:
G
I don’t play DCS myself, but since you do, you might enjoy seeing something like this (starts at the point relevant to your model):
G
The channel this is from, Grim Reapers, has a lot of very funny DCS-based videos. Also plenty of serious ones, but as I don’t play it, those don’t interest me
That is coming on very nicely Andrzej, although that single missile has more parts than most of my kits. Keep up the great work.
Andrew
Andrew
I think, I am done with DCS. It is nice and one could have fun but there are too many inconsistencies and too many things to fix so at my age I just have to concentrate on what is more fun, which is X-Plane simulator and scale modeling.
Thank you, Andrew.
It is going slow but no races, it has to be fun.
Yes, many pieces on this project for sure. :smiling:
Hello again, I am NOT gone or nor I quit. :tears-of-joy: :nerd: :nerd:
New updates.
Marked the places where cross sections are in Blender for my X-Plane simulator model.
On the screenshot you see the started work in Blender.
Fun, just needs a lot of time to make it look good, just like in scale modeling (for a newbie like me) :smiling:
I had to put putty into the nose cone and fuselage gaps and there is also a big step between them height wise.
I am not sure how I will handle that as far as sanding, we will see. Keep your fingers crossed. :cold-sweat:
New updates.
Marked the places where cross sections are in Blender for my X-Plane simulator model.
On the screenshot you see the started work in Blender.
Fun, just needs a lot of time to make it look good, just like in scale modeling (for a newbie like me) :smiling:
I had to put putty into the nose cone and fuselage gaps and there is also a big step between them height wise.
I am not sure how I will handle that as far as sanding, we will see. Keep your fingers crossed. :cold-sweat:
Time for QUESTIONS for my gurus.
I. I got this Eduard masks, see screenshots. How do I separate them as the lines are barely visible? is there any special technique for it?
As some of you know, my canopy is broken in pieces and glued together so no matter what I do cracks after gluing it together will be visible which gives me no option but do something not usual.
I bought these masks just for practicing but have no idea how to use them, I mean separating them from sheet and putting on canopy.
2. Any ideas what I can do with that broken/glued canopy?
Should I sand it, so it is almost opaque?
I. I got this Eduard masks, see screenshots. How do I separate them as the lines are barely visible? is there any special technique for it?
As some of you know, my canopy is broken in pieces and glued together so no matter what I do cracks after gluing it together will be visible which gives me no option but do something not usual.
I bought these masks just for practicing but have no idea how to use them, I mean separating them from sheet and putting on canopy.
2. Any ideas what I can do with that broken/glued canopy?
Should I sand it, so it is almost opaque?
Another QUESTION: :cold-sweat:
After I sanded the joint and saw the result, I could put more putty and sand again, but height difference is so big that I would have to put putty on more area and cover more panel lines and rivets which I do not think I should do.
Actually, I think it does not look TOO bad so I might just leave it as is, but I have a QUESTION:
I have that panel lines tool from Tamiya, but it seems to that it would work only on long, straight lines.
How do I do these tiny and curved ones?
Rivets, I will just try to use the drill bits I have and see.
Please, let me know and wish me luck.:smiling::nerd::tongue-out3:
After I sanded the joint and saw the result, I could put more putty and sand again, but height difference is so big that I would have to put putty on more area and cover more panel lines and rivets which I do not think I should do.
Actually, I think it does not look TOO bad so I might just leave it as is, but I have a QUESTION:
I have that panel lines tool from Tamiya, but it seems to that it would work only on long, straight lines.
How do I do these tiny and curved ones?
Rivets, I will just try to use the drill bits I have and see.
Please, let me know and wish me luck.
:smiling::nerd::tongue-out3:
For curved lines and rivets I would use an engineers scriber.
I have a Tamiya panel line scriber, but don’t find it that useful for rescribing panel lines.
One for the future, I would also have cleaned out those areas with the scriber before the putty had set. It will still work now, it’s just easier when the putty is soft.
Not sure what the others would do.
I have a Tamiya panel line scriber, but don’t find it that useful for rescribing panel lines.
One for the future, I would also have cleaned out those areas with the scriber before the putty had set. It will still work now, it’s just easier when the putty is soft.
Not sure what the others would do.
Hi Andrzej
Sorry can't help with the broken canopy but in terms of the masks I used them for the first time the other week and had the same issue.
In the end I bent them gently in a curve to create a slight gap and then gently used a scalpel blade to lift them off.
ATB.
Andrew
Sorry can't help with the broken canopy but in terms of the masks I used them for the first time the other week and had the same issue.
In the end I bent them gently in a curve to create a slight gap and then gently used a scalpel blade to lift them off.
ATB.
Andrew
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