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Tool for accurate cutting of plastic strip??

BattleshipBob

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Afternoon

Is there such a tool/jig for measuring and then cutting plastic strip etc with a nice square cut!

Trying to make brackets but not sure how accurate the length is (have ruler) and when cutting the ends are not square
 
HI Bob m8 well i just use a nice cheap file in my opinion no need for a fancy cutter unless you are makin hundreds
chris
 
Its the scurge of all scratch builders - a straight and level cut. There are tools out there (Some very expensive) that are worth investing in especially as Chris says, if you have multiple cuts to do. The Linic cutter is okay but the blade does not do a perfectly square cut. It is certainly better than doing it with a knife though. The RP Toolz Mitre Cutter is the top of the range at just under £100.
 
Hi Bob
I'm with Steve on this. I have a cheap cutter and although it works it is not able to cut accurately enough. I bought an RP Tools cutter and it works very well. I suppose you get what you pay for.
Jim
 
Depends upon the thickness of the strip, but I’ve never needed those sort of tools. For thinner stock I simply use a scalpel and a two inch engineers square. Hold the strip against the thick part of the square and cut it using the thinner part as a guide. For thicker stock I use a razor saw and a saw cutting guide. To measure stock accurately I use a pair of spring bow dividers with screw adjustment and set them using a steel rule. If you need a lot of something make a simple U shaped jig with plasticard and use it to cut the strip repeatedly and to the same size.
 
I'm with Christopher and Tim.
No need to buy these 'Special Tools'

But again, everyone to their own. :thumb2:

These gadgets are probably fine, but an accurate, straight and square cut on the common thicknesses of plastic card can be easily obtained using nothing more than a sharp Stanley knife and a METAL rule or straight edge.....and what's more it works, and no one on this planet can write otherwise - So there.:tongue-out3:

For multi strips, I just use the first strip off the production line as a template and mark the next accordingly. If you do end up with minor differences then, as Chris suggests, use a small file.
I don't use a scalpel for cutting plastic strip. This surgical weapon is designed for cutting skin, not plastic strip. I tend to use mine for just scraping seams and scribing board.

Yours.
Idu Kuttumoopp n'Stycch
 
Thread owner
Thanks to you all. Cannot see little old me doing a huge amount of scratchie stuff but StuG crews did add all sorts of brackets. In fact had a go today will post, not bad??
 
No need to buy these 'Special Tools'
If the masses hadn't invested in a guillotine or two in France in the 1790s and relied on a bloke with a Stanley knife the revolution may have turned out very differently. Sometimes only a proper chopper will do :tongue-out3:
Jim
 
No need to buy these 'Special Tools'
Need, maybe not, no. But many tools you don’t actually need, do make your life easier. Like screws: sure, you can put in a hundred screws using a simple screwdriver, but you’ll be done quicker and with less pain in your hands with a cordless drill with a screwdriver bit. In this case, if you need a lot of bits of strip all the same length, one of these guillotines makes that far easier to do than with just a knife and a ruler.

On the other hand, buying a guillotine if you only need it for a few pieces and then hardly ever again would be wasting money, of course.
 
Bob I remember Simon telling me that I was better to buy some plastic strip of the size you need. When I started to cut plastic card into thin section for windows they would bend. I had asked Simon what was the problem, he replied it was the stress on the plastic causing the bend. I now use either Maquett Styrene Plastic Sections, or Evergreen. John sells the latter in the shop.
The Balsa cutter that Gary has mentioned I have and would certainly NOT attempt to use it to cut plastic strip. The strip is too thin to enable the cutter to run against the edge. Buy the section ! and save yourself a lot of heartache.
 
The other hint John is that styrene sheet responds better to a score and snap technique than cutting right through. It puts less stress in the material and also produces less of a “furrow” around the cut. Evergreen strip is excellent in my opinion, it seems to be “sawn” and is completely square, especially the thicker sizes.
 
I use one of these for thin stuff up to about 0.25mm. Not tried it with anything thicker myself, but could be worth trying. Not desperately expensive, you could probably find one for about £15.

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The other hint John is that styrene sheet responds better to a score and snap technique than cutting right through. It puts less stress in the material and also produces less of a “furrow” around the cut. Evergreen strip is excellent in my opinion, it seems to be “sawn” and is completely square, especially the thicker sizes.
It does indeed Tim, thought Bob may find that awkward to snap a thin section in width from the sheet. Quite honestly it's easier and with the choice available just to buy the section.
 
Thread owner
Thanks chaps, will have a good old think. I am using evergreen which seems fine

I have bought a cheap set square so practice is needed
 
WELL guys my take on evergreen its too exspensive as i bought a sheet of chequer plate a little while ago an it was £8.99 for one sheet an fair enough i know its got the anti slip pattern on it but i would not think it cost that much to make it just as well thats all i needed an just my opinion
chris
 
If you just need plastic card, then generic, nameless is just as good as brands like Evergreen and whathaveyou, but generally far cheaper. I just did a quick check, and saw prices like €6 for two sheets of 300 × 150 × 0.75 mm; I then went to my hobby room, where I have a nameless plate of that same thickness, 300 × 500 mm large, that cost me €1.99 (says the sticker on it).

Evergreen etc. are good for strip, profiles, etc., which I can’t seem to find from nameless makes, and for specialty cards embossed with profiles, ridges, etc. — and even there you can find generic ones, if you’re lucky/look hard enough.
 
Best with out doubt & most accurate with a clean edge.

A thick edge steel rule. A Stanley knife with a new blade.

First cut just a light draw to provide a tram line. Than a full cut. Depending on thickness.

Do not dig as my carpenter father instructed me. Let the tool do the work my son.

It is quick easy cheap.& it works perfectly.

Laurie
 
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