Trumpeter 1/24 Hawker Hurricane IID trop
- Thread starter BarryW
- Start date
I have got on with painting. First the Azure underside then masked up...
View attachment 413200
Followed by the Mid-stone.
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I will mask then paint the Dark Earth tomorrow.
View attachment 413200
Followed by the Mid-stone.
View attachment 413201
I will mask then paint the Dark Earth tomorrow.
Attachments
I masked up with Panzer Putty ready for Dark Earth.
I have not mentioned this before. I washed the sprues in warm water and washing up soap which is unusual for me, I did so because the sprues seemed more ‘greasy’ than usual. I also wiped to model before spraying with ipa. I should, perhaps have used disposable gloves while spraying after priming but, keeping handling to the minimum, it has not been a problem before.
Yet, look at this. In spots the paint is being ‘repelled’, I spray over and moments later there are black spots, the black, being primer. It happened to the primer as well sprayed over plastic.
This is where it’s worse, it has happened in a few other places as well.
After leaving it ` few minutes for the paint to dry a further spray of the paint solved it but in a couple of places, including above, I had to sand the area before repeat spraying. Anyway eventually it was sorted but it really is a pain when it happens. I have seen it before, mostly on Trumpeter kits and never on Tamiya.
Here it Is with the camo done.
On now to the masks to paint the markings.
Above I carefully positioned the first code letter then I laid a strip of masking tape to help position the rest.
Below is the fuselage side with all masks in place. When the rest are done I will widen the masked area with tape before spraying.
I have not mentioned this before. I washed the sprues in warm water and washing up soap which is unusual for me, I did so because the sprues seemed more ‘greasy’ than usual. I also wiped to model before spraying with ipa. I should, perhaps have used disposable gloves while spraying after priming but, keeping handling to the minimum, it has not been a problem before.
Yet, look at this. In spots the paint is being ‘repelled’, I spray over and moments later there are black spots, the black, being primer. It happened to the primer as well sprayed over plastic.
This is where it’s worse, it has happened in a few other places as well.
After leaving it ` few minutes for the paint to dry a further spray of the paint solved it but in a couple of places, including above, I had to sand the area before repeat spraying. Anyway eventually it was sorted but it really is a pain when it happens. I have seen it before, mostly on Trumpeter kits and never on Tamiya.
Here it Is with the camo done.
On now to the masks to paint the markings.
Above I carefully positioned the first code letter then I laid a strip of masking tape to help position the rest.
Below is the fuselage side with all masks in place. When the rest are done I will widen the masked area with tape before spraying.
I have started spraying, red first.
I had a pretty bad case of paint being repelled again.
View attachment 413438
I got it sorted in the end.
Before spraying the white and after replacing the masking elements over the red areas I remove the white elements and used a cotton bud and clean water to wipe the paint surface down in the hope it prevents another case of repelling the paint.
I used white MRP primer as I know it covers well and sprayed light coats.
View attachment 413439
There were no problems of the paint being repelled. Well not quite, I noticed this previously but it hardly seemed worth a mention. In the detail, the small rivet holes, they stayed black due, I think to whatever is repelling the paint not being clean off from inside these holes. I find that odd after all the black primer was OK going into them. I should add that there were spots of paint being repelled on the surface when I sprayed the black, easily sorted. It is really odd, as I said this is mostly a problem with Trumpeter, though not exclusively them and I have not found it this bad on any kit before.
I had a pretty bad case of paint being repelled again.
View attachment 413438
I got it sorted in the end.
Before spraying the white and after replacing the masking elements over the red areas I remove the white elements and used a cotton bud and clean water to wipe the paint surface down in the hope it prevents another case of repelling the paint.
I used white MRP primer as I know it covers well and sprayed light coats.
View attachment 413439
There were no problems of the paint being repelled. Well not quite, I noticed this previously but it hardly seemed worth a mention. In the detail, the small rivet holes, they stayed black due, I think to whatever is repelling the paint not being clean off from inside these holes. I find that odd after all the black primer was OK going into them. I should add that there were spots of paint being repelled on the surface when I sprayed the black, easily sorted. It is really odd, as I said this is mostly a problem with Trumpeter, though not exclusively them and I have not found it this bad on any kit before.
Attachments
I have got on with spraying the markings
blue..
There is some touching up to do in a few places. Note the red in the roundel in the foreground, there seems to be a slight blemish, the issue is from dealing with that odd paint repelling issue. The final matt varnish will sort it as this is just a sheen difference.
The underside
I will need to apply a few decals for the serial number and some stencilling before weathering.
blue..
There is some touching up to do in a few places. Note the red in the roundel in the foreground, there seems to be a slight blemish, the issue is from dealing with that odd paint repelling issue. The final matt varnish will sort it as this is just a sheen difference.
The underside
I will need to apply a few decals for the serial number and some stencilling before weathering.
Nice paintwork Barry, painted markings looks better than the decals :thumb2:
Masking off....
a few decals to do, the serial codes being the most visible
As mentioned they will need a couple of coats of decal film to stop them from splintering.
a few decals to do, the serial codes being the most visible
As mentioned they will need a couple of coats of decal film to stop them from splintering.
Just cant beat painted markings.
That problem with the paint, Just a suggestion but the next Trumpeter you do, (and I know you wrote that you did wash the sprues before you started). Try washing in a mix of warm water, dish soap and a dash of vinegar. Its quite a good de-greaser.
That problem with the paint, Just a suggestion but the next Trumpeter you do, (and I know you wrote that you did wash the sprues before you started). Try washing in a mix of warm water, dish soap and a dash of vinegar. Its quite a good de-greaser.
Barry, despite the problems you had with the paint, that's fine out very well indeed.
ATB.
Andrew
ATB.
Andrew
It’s not the paint, more the oil/grease on the kit that resisted my efforts to clean it.
I will certainly try that vinegar next time I do a Trumpy not just soap and water.
This was the first time that I have been pushed to wash a kit in soap and water first, such was the amount of grease on it. I dread to think how bad it would have been if I had not washed and wiped with ipa first.
I have applied the decals. Despite the liquid decal film the serials still did not stay entirely in one piece and suffered from curling. The picture below is after the third coat of softener, more may have to follow. These few small decals really are much more difficult than masks. I will touch up with black paint.
A few pics now that most of the masking is removed. Only the wheel wells are masked because I don’t want to varnish the bare metal finish.
View attachment 413718View attachment 413719View attachment 413720View attachment 413721View attachment 413722
I am really enjoying this build. I will certainly build more of these 1/24 series Trumpy kits in future I love the scale and there is no doubt that despite being a bit greasy the better quality Trumpeter plastic makes a huge difference in 1/24 compared to that soft plastic Airfix uses.
A few pics now that most of the masking is removed. Only the wheel wells are masked because I don’t want to varnish the bare metal finish.
View attachment 413718View attachment 413719View attachment 413720View attachment 413721View attachment 413722
I am really enjoying this build. I will certainly build more of these 1/24 series Trumpy kits in future I love the scale and there is no doubt that despite being a bit greasy the better quality Trumpeter plastic makes a huge difference in 1/24 compared to that soft plastic Airfix uses.
Attachments
It's all coming together Barry masked markings are the way to go. Looking forward to the finished shots.
G
It's a pleasure to see such good photos coupled with your approach to modelling Barry.
The fish eye, the curse of all finishers !
The fish eye, the curse of all finishers !
thanks John
Fish eye, is that what it’s called? I have seen it before but never as bad as this kit.
G
Yes I heard the word first from bodyshop people, I had it when doing furniture refinishing when you found out the item had been " cleaned " with a silicone based polish . Hate it!
I touched up the serial numbers. They are not perfect but will do. The desert is a little hard on paint after all and I am sure markings often needed touching up by hand.
View attachment 413964
On to varnishes and weathering.
View attachment 413964
On to varnishes and weathering.
Attachments
I have removed the last of the masking and started weathering. Still a lot of weathering to do though. Particularly in the wheel well
Weathering materials used so far:
AKI washes
AKI weathering pencils
AKI Smoke pigment
MRP Exhaust Stains
Weathering materials used so far:
AKI washes
AKI weathering pencils
AKI Smoke pigment
MRP Exhaust Stains
Looking very good as always Barry. Would never know you'd touched up the serial number by hand.
ATB.
Andrew
ATB.
Andrew
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