discussion Trumpeter 1/32 Fairy Swordfish Mk 1

[Vaughan]

Looking good Barry the PE looks to be working well.

 

[Guest]

Coming along a treat Barry.

 

[BarryW]

Masking up and preparing to paint and got the initial primer coat on.


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The Badger primer went down well and has exposed some flaws that I am treating with Mr Dissolved Putty and tonight I will be sanding ready for a final coat of primer.


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Sorry, I dont know why that pic is that way around!!!


I will be doing some pre-shading, hopefully Saturday.

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[BarryW]

Here is a pic of the preshaded assemblies. I will post shade the ridges in the wing fabric.


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Does anyone know the colour of the rigging? And whether the straps that are flush with the wing were over painted with camo? See pic


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I have also primed the remaining pe on the frame. This will be painted on the frame before fitting and I am hoping, using this metal primer, will reduce the amount of touching up needed by reducing the amount of peel when manipulating the straps into position.


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[BarryW]

Not having found an authorative source and having looked at photos I have made a decision regarding the straps, unless someone can say otherwise I will paint them a dark grey, somewhat darker than EDSG and those flush with the wing will be painted that colour, not camo.


I will have some more pics tomorrow or Thursday of the painting progress.

 

[Guest]

Take it Barry you mean rigging when you mention straps.


If that is so when I built my 1.48 Swordfish i wrote to the Fleet air arm Museum who are incidentally tops with their info.. The bars are about 1 and a half inch by about three quarters which is of no help really but interesting.


Any way a Lynx landed on the grass infront of our flats. A Fleet Air Lynsx. Chatted to one of the ground crew who gave me more info. The bars of the rigging are eliptical and not flat. They are made of steel and galvanised. So your colour is a mid grey. But having practised in architecture in Jersey a marine environment if ever there was one and owning a boat galvanizing grows darker in colour and has blacish speckled areas where the galvanising is rough and picks up dirt.


Not sure how the 1/32 is constructed .But on mine the wings after sitting into taxi position fractionally wilt. The PE rigging fixed at both points then either bowed or pinged. The result I let the top end free into the hole in the top wing.


Laurie


Pictures sent bu the Fleet Museum.


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[geegad]

looking real nice cant get over how big this aircraft is

 

[BarryW]

Thanks Laurie.


I have been getting on with the painting. Here are a few picture - more Saturday I expect...


Sky underside (AK Interactive air series acrylic)


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I am quite pleased with the pre and post shading. I rarely manage to get the photos to properly show the effect but in this instance its quite close... No prizes to anyone who spots the silly mistake, one that is already corrected....


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Above is the undercarraige. The AKI Sky with a wash, I used the Air Series undercarriage wash. I stille have more work to do on the above parts before fitting and weathering the tyres.


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Clearly this is the prop with the tips sprayed yellow. I found that the unpronouncable Badger yellow primer really covers well so no more yellow coverage problems in future, using that as a base.


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I sprayed the remaining pe with the grey unpronoucable primer after the Mr Metal Primer had dried. I will apply a base coat soon before removing from the fret. I will get some touching up to do of course.


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Above are the bottom wing tops onto which I have sprayed Dark Sea Grey for the 'shadow' scheme. Slate Grey next. I used Vallejo 71.097 for this. The pre-and post shading modulation does not show up much in the photo, just a hint of it. I tried to be fairly subtle with it. This is a land based aircraft, so no salt marks, a bit better looked after perhaps and the lower wings would suffer less sun bleaching.


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Above the Extra Dark Sea Grey, duly pre and post shaded and in this pic you do get a slightly better feel of the modulation effect though the pic is still a bit muted compared to what it actuallty looks like. I use Vallejo MA 71.110 for this. In 'real life' these upper wings do look slightly darker than the lower wings when compared.


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The fuselage. I will try to get a better pic of the painting effect than this one shows.


Tonight I will be spraying the Dark Slate Grey and Slate Grey camo.


As per the Vallejo guidance I am planning to use 71.092 for the Dark Slate Grey (FS34096) and 71.096 for the Slate Grey (FS34158) These seem to be the closest equivalents.


More pics Saturday or Monday....

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[colin m]

Looks great Barry. Sky is one of those colours - I don't know, it just makes me feel warm.......It's just right.

 

[james pithouse]

bloody good work Colin keep us posted with lot more pics

 

[BarryW]

More progress.


I used this stuff, pictured, to mask. It is superb. Easy to manipulate and does not leave any residue. Though I didn't do it you could use it to mask the whole area without resorting to masking tape.


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Here is the fuselage also masked up


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I finished painting the engine. Just need to do some weathering in due course.


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I them sprayed the final dark slate and and slate on the lower wings.


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I will need next to apply a gloss coat ready for decals.

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[Robert1968]

This is looking great Barry and I defiantly like the slate colours you have used ( really must get that panzer putty for my camo lines on a few upcoming builds of RNAS aircraft I'm doing ( Blackburn Roc/ Skua.


I like your subtle weathering and attention to details


Coming by along nicely.


Robert

 

[papa 695]

Just caught up on this one Barry, your doing a terrific job

 

[geegad]

looking real good and im glad to see your using clever putty ive brought two tins of that stuff and it still cheaper than the panzer putty....did u find it works out all right from what i can see works a treat

 

[colin m]

Looking nice Barry. Paint looks excellent.

 

[Vaughan]

I'll agree with that.That putty worked really well with the camo. Where did you get it from? Can you re-use it?.

 

[BarryW]

Hi Vaughan - yes its reusable.


I dont remember where I got it from, I Googled it when I found out about it on Phil Flory's site.


The great thing is how it settles down into the detail if left a couple of hours before spraying resulting in no bleed through while also not being sticky it lifts away easily with no risk to the paintwork.

 

[Vaughan]

Thanks Barry will Google it, looks like a good investment.

 

[BarryW]

I should have known better than to use Trumpy decals. Only excuse is that there are not many.


Inevitably one of them splintered when applying and I need a white H code letter to sit on the port side of the fuselage. Can anybody please help? I have not found a source of white 32 scale codes letters.

 

[BarryW]

Well after posting the above I had to rush out to a meeting and on the way I thought that it cannot be hard to mask up a capital H...


So I did....


I used Alclad Aqua Gloss to lay down my gloss coat before decalling and here are the shots of the successfully applied decals. These went down very well, conformed nicely, but I still brushed some of the Mr Softer over them.....


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I the masked up to do the verticals of the H. For this I used some base points taken from the instructions which helped enormously. I also did some measurments against the successfully applied decal, using the Tammy tape and Mk 1 eyeball.


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The paint I used was the Badger white primer as it covers so well.


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I will do the 'crossbar' tonight..... fingers crossed - I think its going to work....

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