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Using solder for weight

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Gern

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After all the fun and games Scott has had with his He219, I thought I'd better get in a stock of lead wire ready for my build (sometime in the distant future probably). Is there any reason I can't use this stuff:


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soldering-Wire-100g-Flux-Covered-Electrical-Electronic-Solder-60-40-tin-lead-/311469916239?hash=item48850dc04f:g:2TEAAOSw9mFWKMb2


I'm only asking if the flux coating is likely to react with any of the glues/paints or if it somehow reacts chemically with the plastic.
 
\ said:
Shouldn't do Dave, although I can let you have some proper lead if you want some.
sI:)
If you just want lead for weight then builders merchants sell it in rolls for roof flashings. A roll would last a life time. Wickes also sell it. Maybe you could get together with fellow model makers and share the cost. Fishing weights may also be an option.


Cheers
 
For my Me.262 I used bits of cut-up bits of brass rod, it should do the trick :) ;)
 
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Thanks for the suggestions folks.


Si and Alan. I have a kilogram of lead sheet I got from here:


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Code-3-LEAD-SHEET-LEAD-BALLAST-300mm-x-150mm-x-1-3mm-700grams-approx-/181978602116?


I was thinking of how Scott used some wire to fill spaces on his He219. Having some lead in both wire and sheet form will give me a range of options.


Blair. I have some thin brass and steel rods which I normally use for reinforcing u/c legs etc. I'll bear your suggestion in mind.
 
Would solder be really heavy enough though Dave, it's only 40% lead, might need a lot more than you thought. I use fishing weights but was shocked how expensive they are.
 
I believe plumber's solder doesn't have flux in it. A rule somewhere says no flux cored solder can be used on water pipes - or something like that.
 
Air riffle pellets for me


Roofing lead isn't lead I think it's zinc it's cheaper doesn't bend as easily and it's not quite as heavy so that's why air riffle pellets


Roger
 
Try a scrap yard. I got some for another purpose. It might be that it was used for roofing, which might make it thicker than you want, but I think you could beat the living daylights out of it with a hammer. (Make you fee better too!)
 
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Thanks for the suggestions. I have ordered a roll as it's cheap. I'll give it a try and see how it works.


I agree that pounding a lump of lead with a hammer is probably quite therapeutic Steve, but it also sounds suspiciously like manual labour to me. I've avoided that like the plague for the last forty years as I tried it once and didn't like it at all! (I only picked teaching as a career 'cos it's indoors with no heavy lifting!).
 
there is apparently a problem with lead reacting with superglue.....ive read it in a few places over the years....the reaction makes a deposit 'grow' on the lead which in time can split fuselages


i use .44'' lead balls (left over from when i used to shoot a black powder muzzle loader years ago) but i stick it in with plasticine not glue
 
I use white glue, PVA, rather than Superglue. Takes longer but is as safe as houses. Just how safe are houses?...........
 
I just sold 300kg though scrap price was terrible. I find walking amongst the rocks on the beach yields a few lost fishing weights. I also have a bag of fine lead shot bought from a dive shop which I've had for years now.


Dave
 
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Some good advice and help here - thanks folks. The wire I ordered has arrived so now all I need is a tail-sitter to try everything on ....
 
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