discussion Washes in acrylic ?

[Guest]

Morning all
I've been considering moving to acrylic washes, I know , don't all shout at me ! :flushed:
Been trying to do washes on the Kitten using sprit base AK . It seems very bitty, I can see small flecks of pigment of course in this scale they look like lumps of pigment. ! Yes before you ask it was shaken !
I've watched on U Tube several videos of useing acrylic ,seems to be ok as long as you keep cleaning the over spill.

Steve Jones produces such impressive work on smaller scales, that's the type of finish I would like to acheive.
So anyone have any experience or ideas please .
John

 

[Mr Bowcat]

I've tried with acrylic, didn't get on with it and went back to enamels and oils. I found it just dried too quick for me, and I couldn't blend it as well.

Saying that, I've got a Bandai AT-ST on it's way from Japan, from what I've read my usual washes will destroy the plastic so that's going to have to have acrylic weathering. :cold-sweat:

 

[Guest]

Thanks Bob .
I understand what you mean about the drying .I read yesterday that using a brush or cotton bud dipped in cleaner and brushed out does the trick . Not sure how true this is, don't want to remove all the paint do we:sad:

I 've decided to take a chance and just given John an order.
Will post how I get on .
John

 

[Gern]

I've tried with acrylic, didn't get on with it and went back to enamels and oils. I found it just dried too quick for me, and I couldn't blend it as well.

Saying that, I've got a Bandai AT-ST on it's way from Japan, from what I've read my usual washes will destroy the plastic so that's going to have to have acrylic weathering. :cold-sweat:

Phil Flory had that problem and I'm sure he recommends using an acrylic varnish to protect the plastic before applying enamels.

 

[Mr Bowcat]

Hi Dave, yes Phil Flory amongst many others had the issue, the problem seems to be with the enamels pooling in the joints. Other builders have varnished after the model is built, however this leaves the joints exposed to the enamel washes. I did think about varnishing before it all goes together, however I'm not sure if this will guarantee a fix so using acrylics might be a safer bet.

 

[Steve Jones]

Top tip mate - use oils:smiling5:
Seriously though if you want to give it a go with acrylics they can certainly work on models. Practice makes perfect. Good luck
Steve

 

[Tim Marlow]

I have used VJ flesh wash on the little blokes several times and it works well for shading. I don’t think diluted model colour works that well for anything except straight painting, even with retarder and VJ thinner. I wouldn’t want to use either as a pin wash. I have tried pre-made washes, but find they stink badly and go off quickly. I always use oils diluted with W&N Sansodor thinners these days. Works well, long drying time allowing correction, and almost no smell.....
Cheers
Tim

 

[Guest]

Thanks guys for you views.
Steve. ....I can't control it well like you do, seems to end up in a pool, esp when I misjudge the placing .:worried:
Tim ....I tried using the Vallejo paints slightly thinned, but they just don't flow. Having read that I should have dampened the area first to help the flow answered part of my query. I've got some oils but find the drying times too long . So will have a crack with the washes and report back.
John .

 

[Tim Marlow]

Army painter strong tone might work better for you John, look it up and see what you think. Some gamers use it to shade and outline detail on figures.
Cheers
Tim

 

[Guest]

Thanks Tim .
Worth bearing in mind.
I've got on order from John here at the shop some Vallejo so will see how I get on .
John

 

[Bugatti Fan]

Regarding acrylic washes. You can mix up pretty much any colour wash you want instead of shelling out for expensive modelling products. Get some quality flow formula acrylics from an art shop such as Rowney, Winsor and Newton, Reeves or Liquitex products. You can mix and dilute to whatever consistency you want. Choose a limited palette of the base colours you wish to mix. I find they last ages compared to proprietary modelling products for brush application. Make sure to cap the tubes properly after use.

 

[Guest]

You can mix up pretty much any colour wash you want instead of shelling out for expensive modelling products.

QFT.

 

[Jim R]

Hi John
I have never tried acrylic washes but just wondered if some of the problems may be lessened with the addition of retarder or a flow improver - maybe a drop of washing up liquid. I imagine that it would be better working on a cool day.
Jim

 

[Lee Drennen]

John
I’m just started washing my models a couple weeks ago I used MiG dessert wash on this German Half track. First time I ever done a wash. The emamel seems to work well for me.

 

[Guest]

Guys , Noel , Jakko , Jim , and Lee, thanks for the replies.
If I could get fully motivated I was going to apply a wash on those figures, so had better get on with them .
John.

 

[Guest]

A wash on figures? I’d use a glaze myself, which I find to give better quick results when it comes to painting figures.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Hi Jakko
I think we are in the realms of nomenclature here.... A glaze is a thin even coat of paint which adds richness and depth to a finish. It can also be used to soften transitions between paint layers.
A wash is a thin uneven coat of paint that basically puddles in the folds and emphasises texture.
Cheers
Tim

 

[Guest]

With “glaze” I mean a translucent paint, not (heavily) thinned but applied more or less straight. This can work really well to quickly and easily shade figures, especially in smaller scales (like the size of your avatar or so ).

 

[Tim Marlow]

Hi Jakko
See what you mean now. Old Boris Gamges there (a GW 28mm I think, he’s standing on a penny) was shaded in some places with W&N inks to achieve a similar effect. Hair was textured with a wash of nut brown ink. I have also used VJ Matt medium as a basis for glazes, especially for highlight use, stops the lighter colours turning chalky.

 

[Guest]

Evening Jakko and Tim.
Have tried some washes, seems ok , rather like I hoped, and it is just like thin coat of paint. Used a grey over the German uniform. Have left over night to see how it looks in natural light and when fully dry. Tomorrow I will fit the equipment and weapons, then photograph .
John