Latest Acquisitions (2021)

[The Smythe Meister]

Are you ok there in wet Devon Mr Smith... I think Rach has something planed for you to do in the house, either that or shes's very kind:smiling3:

Sorry John, only just seen your comment!
We're fine thanks mate, although you're dead right.... It's been raining non stop here for DAYS now,
Rach certainly does spoil me from time to time, but these were an early birthday present....and luckily for me,they came yesterday.... I've nearly built up the Land speeder already!!
Andy

[Tim Marlow]

I would advise to clean the figures with a copper-wire brush before glueing, especially any areas that will be glued. If you don’t, chances are the bond will be weak because you’re not gluing metal to metal but two thin layers of gunk together, that are normally on metal castings.

Don’t do that Jakko. All you do by abrading the surface with a suede brush is round off the sharp relief modelled in by the sculptor. If the surface needs cleaning that badly an old toothbrush and kitchen cream cleaner is much more effective. Not had that issue on modern sculpts for years though, not since the manufactures went lead free.

[Guest]

All you do by abrading the surface with a suede brush is round off the sharp relief modelled in by the sculptor.

But I’ve never had any problems with that happening with modern, lead-free figures. Lead ones are too soft, yes, but more modern white metal figures are generally strong enough that you can do this with no problem at all, is my experience (just be careful not to break long, thin pieces like spears or sword blades).

If the surface needs cleaning that badly an old toothbrush and kitchen cream cleaner is much more effective. Not had that issue on modern sculpts for years though, not since the manufactures went lead free.

I have, before I started cleaning my figures prior to painting, and I’ve also seen a lot of other people who had parts break clean off their wargaming figures exactly because none of them cleaned up the surfaces to be glued.

[Tim Marlow]

I always clean prior to painting, using dish soap and an old toothbrush Jakko , but I’ve never needed to wire brush them first. I’m thinking back twenty odd years when figures used to have heavy metal discolouration and gritty deposits on the surface. Modern casts are much better and don’t show that.
Superglue is quite brittle in my experience, and parts will become detached if you use it for the wrong joints. For anything that will be unduly handled I usually use five minute epoxy. I have sometimes drilled and pinned joints to add strength as well. I regularly used to solder joints when my soldering chops were up to speed, and this gives the strongest joints.

[peterairfix]

I went a little bit mad today.

[Guest]

Nothing as exciting as Peters, but the mail room received these.

Plastic jars for pigments.

[Richard48]

Nothing as exciting as Peters, but the mail room received these.

Plastic jars for pigments.

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You reminded me to get some tubs John!!.Im awaiting on my Tamiya T.34/76 kit.One i should have built years ago.I know its not best kit but might do.some jiggery pockery with her.
Rich

[RonGlass]

Well I'm positively giddy over receiving this in the mail today ! Ordered it 2 1/2 months ago, been praying to the Modeling Deities for a plastic kit of it for just over 20 years !

[Guest]

You reminded me to get some tubs John!!.Im awaiting on my Tamiya T.34/76 kit.One i should have built years ago.I know its not best kit but might do.some jiggery pockery with her.
Rich

Hope you post the build Rich.

[Richard48]

Bought this Golden oldie off e.bay.Always wanted to do one since i saw Francois Verlindens take on it in his Tamiya special of diorama works.I might do a bit of improvement on it but im not a lover of P.E sets.I know there are better kits by Afv etc but good enough for me with John Race watching me like a hawk.

[Guest]

Francois Verlindens take on it in his Tamiya special of diorama works.

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That one? All you need now is the old Tamiya Flakvierling crew set

[Richard48]

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That one? All you need now is the old Tamiya Flakvierling crew set :smiling3:

Exactly Jakko!!,This book got me hooked on afvs when i was 13.Loved his dioramas so much.

[Richard48]

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That one? All you need now is the old Tamiya Flakvierling crew set :smiling3:

Have you got the book of his dioramas these came from Jakko?
Richard

[Dave Ward]

Since I've made a lot of ICM models, I decided to give their acrylic paints a try........................

6 pots - 12ml each for £8.75 delivered. The bottles are marked 'Made in the Ukraine by ICM' . It says they are optimised for brush painting & will need diluting for airbrush.
I don't have a ICM Marder to paint, but they seemed to me to be the most useful selection of paints from the ICM sets! Might be a while before I can review them.......
Dave

[slupanter]

My love of Fw190 Ds and the last 6momths of the war all in one photo.
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