Andy's 1/35 Tamiya Stug B

[Guest]

Thanks all. Second hinge went better than the first John but I'm still not sure I'll manage the 11 for the hatches which are around 1/4 the size!

And that's the frustrating thing for me, so many of you seem to have no issues with Vallejo but virtually every time I use it I'm in a constant battle. I'm usually lucky to get 30 seconds of spraying before it clogs up with lumps. Strip, clean, go again for a bit, strip ,clean, etc etc The bigger 0.4mm nozzle helped for a while as it let the lumps through rather than blocking it up, but then of course they need sanding out of the surface and it's a bit of a hosepipe. I've started filtering which gets a lot of the lumps out but I guess I need to go finer. Time to try Paul E's idea of tights!

[SimonT]

Andy - I know what you mean with Vallejo. I had the same problem - tried all kinds of things people suggested but in the end abandoned it for spraying and went back to Tamiya which sprays really well.

Recently I have also sprayed AK/Mig modulation sets without too much problem through 0.2 but I would say that Tamiya are still the winner for ease of use in my book

[Guest]

Cheers Simon, good to hear it isn't just me.

If I could I'd switch exclusively to lacquer paints as they spray so much nicer. I get better results from Mr Color through my £20 airbrush with a bent, wrongly sized needle than I do with Vallejo and the Infinity! Trouble is they don't brush well so I'd need to buy extra paints for that.

I'll try a few tins of regular Tamiya first and see how I get on.

[Guest]

I couldn’t get Vallejo Model Color to spray without clogging up my (pretty forgiving) Aztek A470 with a big nozzle on, whether I thinned with water, alcohol or Vallejo’s own thinner. OTOH, their Model Air sprays fine through it when I do no more than put some into the cup, straight from the bottle.

However, I have to say I much prefer Tamiya acrylics, even if I usually have to fiddle around to get them thin enough to spray well.

[Steve Jones]

Model Color is designed to be brushed on but with a few drops of Windowlene it works fine. Vallejo's Air range is a funny beast. Some bottles are perfect consistency and others too thick or runny. I use them due to their large range of colours. I always have a sponge soaked in airbrush cleaner to hand as it is invariably the nozzle that gets clogged with drying paint. So a quick clean out and I'm off painting again.

Don't worry about the unevenness of th Red oxide as once you have added a few dirt washes' and pigments it would look much the same. I expect a lot of it will be covered in Elfenbein anyhow

Tremendous result on the PE hinges. All coming along nicely .

[Guest]

I've only used the Air type so far Jakko but have been thinking about getting some Model Colour for brushing as I'm sure it'll work much better.

I did get some tip dry issues during the summer Steve so similar to you I have a paper towel or cotton bud on hand with cleaner on it. I don't get it that much now the weather is cooler and I use a drop or two of their flow improver. But the lumps are my problem now. Sometimes I can keep the air on and work the needle backwards and forwards to tease the lumps out. They splat on my paper then I can spray fine until the next one comes along. Although if you looked closely at the Stug interior I just kept going and let them splatter all over that as the red mist had descended :smiling5:

And yes, plan is to cover most of the red and chip through to it, heavily on the floor.

Really happy with the hinges myself thanks. Might get a third one done today, I can only wear the magnifiers for so long before they strain my eyes :nerd:

[Mr Bowcat]

I can't stand Vallejo paints for airbrushing, could never get them to work for me. Until recently I stuck with Tamiya Acrylics which always spray fine thinned 50:50, but recently I've starting moving over to Tamiya and Hataka lacquers which (other than the smell) are an improvement in every way.

[Guest]

Thanks Bob. Have you tried using either of those with a brush, just for touch up's etc?

Lacquers are by far my favourite for spraying, and to be honest I barely notice the smell. I've spent 25 years working around thinners so I've gotten used to it lol. Our spray gun cleaning machine is effectively a high pressure dishwasher recirculating 25 litre barrels of the stuff so you can imagine how pungent that gets! And I've had a good face full before now when I've opened the lid a bit quickly :loudly-crying:

[Mr Bowcat]

I have with the Hataka paints, not tried the Tamiya for touch ups. Can't say I had any problems with the Hataka, although it was literally a tiny blob.

[Guest]

Aimed to get the interior finished today and I'm pretty much there. I might add a couple of small bags and boxes to provide a bit of extra interest but not too much as I know space was at a premium inside these.

Didn't get any pictures straight after the hairspray chipping but here it is after some work with oilbrushers

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I then splashed a variety of pigments around

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And with the gun in place

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[BattleshipBob]

Lovely Andy, crew need a rollocking, dirty buggers:thumb2:

[Steve Jones]

Well done Andy. A stunning result. Really looks the DB's. Great stuff

[stillp]

Looks great Andy, I wish my interiors would come out like that. Maybe a little wear on that black seat?
Pete

[Guest]

Thanks chaps. Really happy with it myself, even though most of it will never be seen.

I'm annoyed by the mould line down the gun sight/periscope thing though. I thought I'd cleaned it up well enough but the camera says different :smiling5:

[Guest]

Crossed replies Pete.

Yes, that's something else I noticed in the pictures. I did quite a bit of work on the two black seats but it doesn't seem to show up very well. Will have another go at them :thumb2: